The 'Today's Job' thread

Furniss

Furniss

Well-known member
Pipes have gone like bananas in the heat!! Looking forward to the same problem next week where we have 1in80 and and not a lot of tolerance to get the furthest connection in!!😱😱😱😱

I wont have ours delivered any more - I go to the suppliers and pull it out from halfway in the pile then stack it somewhere flat on the job till it gets used......... let builders use the warped stuff :)
 
J

Jimoz

Well-known member
Mines all gone in this week. Like you say kept it flat and outthe sun. Don't mind merchants delivering when on account doesn't cost me owt yo send it back. 3rd merchant before I got some decent gear!
 

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doobin

doobin

Well-known member
So I buy a new digger and one of the old ones throws a hissy fit. Son of a bitch. One main feed pipe from pump gone. No hope of limping it onto a trailer as that's the pump section for the l/h track.

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So much oily mud in there, I haven't a hope of doing anything without cleaning it. Got to jack and lock the boom up, then swing it out the way and remove the offset ram before I can go any further. Luckily a mate has a petrol pressure washer with a diesel burner.

On the plus side, it's broken down at a decent customers house. His neighbour is a member of a very famous touring UK band- a top bloke, he insisted on shaking my hand when the customer introduced him to me, despite me being covered head to toe in hydraulic 46! :ROFLMAO:

I just played it cool. I had a lot of practice at that as I once quoted a job for Hugh Bonneville (apparently of Downton Abbey fame). Honestly didn't know who he was when he answered the door, and I think he appreciated that!
 
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Grahams

Grahams

Don't complain - suggest what's better
That looks a complete nightmare. Need someone who can lift it on to your trailer just to get it out of there before some helpful person mentions soil contamination.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
don't envy you that one Doob :(:( ....... looks a bitch
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
All done. We would have been f***ed without the engine driven steam cleaner. We dug a quick lagoon and filled it with oil absorbant pads, worked pretty well.

Once we got the offset ram out the way it was fairly simple. Tight/silly hose routing with no protection on the hoses was the culprit. Three hoses jammed between a gusset and the the offset ram bush. Where they went through into the valve chest one had also worn a good couple of mil into the floor plate!! I replaced the broken one and a second which also had bad wear. Tried to get some spiral wrap on but too tight to do a decent job. At least I can tick 'complete oil change' off of the service schedule now...

It took two of us a day, including me driving to get new hoses whilst my guy cleaned all the panels for good measure.

Come on lads, make me feel better. Any guesses what Pirtek would have charged? :ROFLMAO:

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S

Smiffy

Well-known member
All done. We would have been f***ed without the engine driven steam cleaner. We dug a quick lagoon and filled it with oil absorbant pads, worked pretty well.

Once we got the offset ram out the way it was fairly simple. Tight/silly hose routing with no protection on the hoses was the culprit. Three hoses jammed between a gusset and the the offset ram bush. Where they went through into the valve chest one had also worn a good couple of mil into the floor plate!! I replaced the broken one and a second which also had bad wear. Tried to get some spiral wrap on but too tight to do a decent job. At least I can tick 'complete oil change' off of the service schedule now...

It took two of us a day, including me driving to get new hoses whilst my guy cleaned all the panels for good measure.

Come on lads, make me feel better. Any guesses what Pirtek would have charged? :ROFLMAO:

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I don't know about pirtek but with roudens if you present a machine to them at the base for some reason they wouldn't/couldnt add labour
I presented them with a part of an American machine with all sorts of different fittings
Took 2 hours for them to sort and got charged for a 12in long hose and a handful of fittings
 
TiltyShaun

TiltyShaun

Well-known member
Pirtek have there uses if you don’t have the means to strip it yourselves. How much you value your time doing it would probably still be less than Pirtek!!
 
R

Russell

Well-known member
My brickie didn't want to get wet today so I fitted my new reversing light.
 
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V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
My brickie didn't want to get wet today so I fitted my new reversing light.View attachment 8848View attachment 8849
jeeeeez .... what sort of speeds are you planning to be reversing at o_O:oops:
you do realise that C&U says no more than 21w rearward facing white light can be fitted?:unsure: .... 'swhy reverse lights are always so crap on vehicles .... be ready for a pull or two with that:rolleyes:
 
R

Russell

Well-known member
I'll have a look in to it and Ill stick it on a switch
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I'll have a look in to it and Ill stick it on a switch
yeh .... you wouldn't want that coming on every time you stuck it in reverse .... 'specially if you had a plod behind you :oops: ...
it'll probably need a relay too with the current draw .... :unsure:
trigger a relay from the reversing switch, with an interrupter switch to isolate it perhaps :unsure: and maybe a second switch to feed it with current direct, for when you want it on without reverse selected (for those tw*ts who persist in driving behind on main beam moments :sneaky::giggle:) etc. (y):LOL:
 
R

Russell

Well-known member
It should be drawing 16amps, 216w but I can't measure as my crappy tester only goes to 10A. It's on a 30 relay and it's popped a 10A fuse already so must be somewhere around 15amps. I'm going to see if I can do two way switching with the toggle switches as I think they are single throw, double pole, I could then have a switch in the front and one in the boot. I'll probably just remove the link to reverse light as it's not really necessary and could cause grief.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
It should be drawing 16amps, 216w but I can't measure as my crappy tester only goes to 10A. It's on a 30 relay and it's popped a 10A fuse already so must be somewhere around 15amps. I'm going to see if I can do two way switching with the toggle switches as I think they are single throw, double pole, I could then have a switch in the front and one in the boot. I'll probably just remove the link to reverse light as it's not really necessary and could cause grief.
216W divided by 12V is 18A Russ ..... will need a 20A fuse ;)
if you want to just be able to turn it on from either position, you can feed the relay from either switch ..... but will have to turn off the supply from the same switch and not be able to use it like a two way :(... single throw, double pole means on/off for two separate circuits (L & N) .... you'd need single (or dual pole), double throw for two way switching :rolleyes:
 
Shovelhands

Shovelhands

Well-known member
Run it through a relay, triggered by the reverse light circuit. But simply feed it via a switch if you want it on as and when you please, so the switch circuit bypasses the relay. No special switches needed.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Run it through a relay, triggered by the reverse light circuit. But simply feed it via a switch if you want it on as and when you please, so the switch circuit bypasses the relay. No special switches needed.
other than a 20A toggle James ;) ...think Russel was proposing to do a two way circuit he could switch on/off from either location in the truck :unsure: ... lot of faff though for the distances involved between switches ... and finding suitable toggles, although switching a low draw, like the relay broadens the availability of suitable switches dramatically (y)
 
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