Do I start to do my own servicing

Bob

Bob

Well-known member
In the sixties and seventies on muck shifting we use to change engine oils every 2 weeks on dozers scrapers etc we would undo the sump plug and drop the oil on the ground even on water reservoirs that was a lot of oil and grease up the machine up ever day that was 10 hrs a week greasing money then firms started having grease monkeys and cut it down to 7 hrs a week on top of your working hours
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
Yeah true about the rate.
Think it's the way to go 3 machines now so will start to add up.
Maybe teach our female op how to do it
I used morris lubricants til recently , found them really good . More recently I’ve switched to shell as I get a good deal on a 205 l drum of Rimula 6 and they have a brilliant technical guy who will tell you immediately over the phone if the oil you have is a decent enough spec for your machine and if not what they would recommend . They have a great lube app on line that has every machine you could think of in it and what they recommend for each machines oils.
I got my right hand man servicing and he’s getting good at it . Makes a note of everything he’s done and the hours as well . Him or I are much cheaper than farming out .
 
JerryRtilt

JerryRtilt

Well-known member
I used morris lubricants til recently , found them really good . More recently I’ve switched to shell as I get a good deal on a 205 l drum of Rimula 6 and they have a brilliant technical guy who will tell you immediately over the phone if the oil you have is a decent enough spec for your machine and if not what they would recommend . They have a great lube app on line that has every machine you could think of in it and what they recommend for each machines oils.
I got my right hand man servicing and he’s getting good at it . Makes a note of everything he’s done and the hours as well . Him or I are much cheaper than farming out .
That shell app sounds useful, using the right spec.oil is so important with the modern stuff fitted with all the emissions crap now I think, definitely don't use the cheapest available and same applies to hyd.
Just another cost to factor in.
 
B

bobthebuilder

Well-known member
always do my own ,try to fix it aswell when broke down.will have a barrell of hyd in shortly ,servicing when its kinda due ,
 
6

6feetdown

Well-known member
I used morris lubricants til recently , found them really good . More recently I’ve switched to shell as I get a good deal on a 205 l drum of Rimula 6 and they have a brilliant technical guy who will tell you immediately over the phone if the oil you have is a decent enough spec for your machine and if not what they would recommend . They have a great lube app on line that has every machine you could think of in it and what they recommend for each machines oils.
I got my right hand man servicing and he’s getting good at it . Makes a note of everything he’s done and the hours as well . Him or I are much cheaper than farming out .
That's what I'm thinking my female op is good at fixing things and willing to learn
 
6

6feetdown

Well-known member
I used morris lubricants til recently , found them really good . More recently I’ve switched to shell as I get a good deal on a 205 l drum of Rimula 6 and they have a brilliant technical guy who will tell you immediately over the phone if the oil you have is a decent enough spec for your machine and if not what they would recommend . They have a great lube app on line that has every machine you could think of in it and what they recommend for each machines oils.
I got my right hand man servicing and he’s getting good at it . Makes a note of everything he’s done and the hours as well . Him or I are much cheaper than farming out .
Have you a link to the site?
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
6) change coolant after checking its freeze temp, and it’s above -20, I know we rarely see temps down to this, but depending where the machine is stored there could be a wind chill factor.
I have run 50% in everything I own after having gear gel up one night in '80 ... was -29C when I went into work at three a.m. and dropped everything on the floor ... was hard to breathe without a cover over your face
I agree -20C and below is unusual, but it does happen ..... first winter we were here was -14C through the day and getting down to -19/20C overnight -- for over two weeks .... one neighbour's 1500ltr water header tank froze solid ... weren't drawing off it frequently enough ... amazed it didn't split TBH:rolleyes: .... you can't skimp on antifreeze
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I used morris lubricants til recently , found them really good . More recently I’ve switched to shell as I get a good deal on a 205 l drum of Rimula 6 and they have a brilliant technical guy who will tell you immediately over the phone if the oil you have is a decent enough spec for your machine and if not what they would recommend . They have a great lube app on line that has every machine you could think of in it and what they recommend for each machines oils.
I got my right hand man servicing and he’s getting good at it . Makes a note of everything he’s done and the hours as well . Him or I are much cheaper than farming out .
used Shell for everything for over 30+ years in work ... we too had a great rep. who had an encyclopaedic knowledge of their products .. Ray was a walking reference library
 
Mick-the-fitter

Mick-the-fitter

It’s what I do!
I do my own servicing on machinery/cars after warranty period is up - even then sometimes if it’s in warranty I’ll just make sure that I only buy filters/oil from dealer. It’s a good excuse to go right through the machines and make sure everything is spot on.
I’ve heard too many stories of fitters(main dealers!!) just wiping filters clean to make it look like they are changed 😞
Exactly
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
My young fella works in the trade and he got me a great deal through europarts where he knows the rep . I reckon that if you’re buying a full barrel though you’d likely get a good deal anyway if you push them
 
Bri963

Bri963

Well-known member
The way I do it, or think about it,
1) buying filters from dealers, firstly check the dates on the filters, shelf life around 2 years! They will gladly sell you all the filters, but the dates will be later than the ones you take off.

2) most services are based around hours around the running hours, the engine oil and filter are important at recommended intervals, air filters can need changing earlier depending on dust conditions, hydraulic oil, in dumpers it only tips and steers so you can stretch it out a bit, excavators rely on hydraulic oil more so, and if using breakers or augers change it more regularly.

3) track motor reduction hubs, change very regularly, more so if doing lots of road work or travelling.

4) pilot filter always a consideration if the hydraulic oil is changed sooner than necessary.

5) grease fast moving parts daily more than once, slow moving parts at least once.

6) change coolant after checking its freeze temp, and it’s above -20, I know we rarely see temps down to this, but depending where the machine is stored there could be a wind chill factor.
X 2 on all of this, Mick, especially 3). Basically, anything with an epicyclic reduction, like finals in shovels, tracked machine finals, regular oil changes and good oils are a must. You’ll get an idea of the state of things from the colour, debris and smell of the oils. When phosphor bronze bushes start to wear there’s a real stink.Checking final levels between servicing isn’t a bad insurance policy. They can still wear, but hopefully you can catch them before total failure, which never happens in a convenient place.

Another thing is using hired in attachments is cross contamination from oil in the attachment. I hired in a breaker to go on a 10 tonner and within an hour the hydraulic oil in the sight glass had turned nearly black. Quick oil change probably saved a few problems there.

on our fleet after we’ve done a service we do a quick “pdI” including a full grease up. Soon shows whether the ops have been doing what they tick on the sheets.
 
hiluxman

hiluxman

Well-known member
X 2 on all of this, Mick, especially 3). Basically, anything with an epicyclic reduction, like finals in shovels, tracked machine finals, regular oil changes and good oils are a must. You’ll get an idea of the state of things from the colour, debris and smell of the oils. When phosphor bronze bushes start to wear there’s a real stink.Checking final levels between servicing isn’t a bad insurance policy. They can still wear, but hopefully you can catch them before total failure, which never happens in a convenient place.

Another thing is using hired in attachments is cross contamination from oil in the attachment. I hired in a breaker to go on a 10 tonner and within an hour the hydraulic oil in the sight glass had turned nearly black. Quick oil change probably saved a few problems there.

on our fleet after we’ve done a service we do a quick “pdI” including a full grease up. Soon shows whether the ops have been doing what they tick on the sheets.
I've a leak from the final drive on my dx19, are they straight forward to do?
 
Bri963

Bri963

Well-known member
I've a leak from the final drive on my dx19, are they straight forward to do?
From the front or the back? If it’s at the back it’ll be the duo cone or whatever type of seal they use on them between the housing and back plates. Not having had one apart on a DX I don’t know whether you’ll need a special tool to undo the nut at the back (inside the housing). If it’s from where the motor bolts on or through the front cover it is doable yourself. How bad a leak is it?
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Do you go direct to them or 3rd party?
dealt direct with shell for oils, fuels, etc., for many years
The Smith & Allen guys I put a link up for a while back are agents for Shell ... not that many about ... been buying my Rimula from them for a while (y)
 
hiluxman

hiluxman

Well-known member
From the front or the back? If it’s at the back it’ll be the duo cone or whatever type of seal they use on them between the housing and back plates. Not having had one apart on a DX I don’t know whether you’ll need a special tool to undo the nut at the back (inside the housing). If it’s from where the motor bolts on or through the front cover it is doable yourself. How bad a leak is it?
Not fully investigated yet. The oil is running down the inside of the sprocket

It needs a top up every month at the moment (not empty but few pumps from the oil filler upper) but obviously it won't improve so it's moving up the need to get done list.
 
6

6feetdown

Well-known member
dealt direct with shell for oils, fuels, etc., for many years
The Smith & Allen guys I put a link up for a while back are agents for Shell ... not that many about ... been buying my Rimula from them for a while (y)
I'll look at them as the grease prices were ok
 
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