Vinnys Ventures

Giles

Giles

Well-known member
glad you're feeling better vinny, why Ames taping vs skimming? keep wet messy trades to a min?

how much do you think it'll cost you to build it(roughly)? the talk down sarth is £2500-£3000 /m2 for extensions
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
glad you're feeling better vinny, why Ames taping vs skimming? keep wet messy trades to a min?

how much do you think it'll cost you to build it(roughly)? the talk down sarth is £2500-£3000 /m2 for extensions
Thanks Giles , Really on account that hardly anyone does any skimming at all up here . The Ames taped finish is very very good now as well . Maybe not quite as robust as a skimmed wall but not that much in it with all the new types of beads available now for corners etc .
More recently it has been an option from a few well skilled polish boys but they tend to stick to external renders as there is a lot more call for that.
Per sq m price builds up here are varied just like the south . I do work for a renewables builder and they are quoting at the top end 3-4k per sq m for turn key builds and that’s after you’ve bought your plot . I’m aiming at no more than 1500per sq m for mine . That’s with all the floor coverings and finishings done . Around 2k per sq m now for a decent spec with some renewables would be pretty normal
 
Giles

Giles

Well-known member
Thanks Giles , Really on account that hardly anyone does any skimming at all up here . The Ames taped finish is very very good now as well . Maybe not quite as robust as a skimmed wall but not that much in it with all the new types of beads available now for corners etc .
More recently it has been an option from a few well skilled polish boys but they tend to stick to external renders as there is a lot more call for that.
Per sq m price builds up here are varied just like the south . I do work for a renewables builder and they are quoting at the top end 3-4k per sq m for turn key builds and that’s after you’ve bought your plot . I’m aiming at no more than 1500per sq m for mine . That’s with all the floor coverings and finishings done . Around 2k per sq m now for a decent spec with some renewables would be pretty normal

I’m hoping for similar on my 120m2 extension somewhere around the 1200-1500m2 before we go to the roof and Tin hat it got hip to gable and new roof

Quoted footings and shell for an extension near me and guy nearly choked, he was like is that finished? I was like no just footings, drains and shell in stone to wall plate! Ppl shocked at cost currently.
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
I’m hoping for similar on my 120m2 extension somewhere around the 1200-1500m2 before we go to the roof and Tin hat it got hip to gable and new roof

Quoted footings and shell for an extension near me and guy nearly choked, he was like is that finished? I was like no just footings, drains and shell in stone to wall plate! Ppl shocked at cost currently.
But they will still expect it to add more than 100% of the cost to the value of the house immediately .
Not many extensions we look at just now where cost will be less than additional value . I’ve stopped looking at percentages , they cost what they cost .
I’ve done some underbuildings with awkward Groundworks that cost more per sqm than others I’ve done at twice the size .
 
B

bobthebuilder

Well-known member
But they will still expect it to add more than 100% of the cost to the value of the house immediately .
Not many extensions we look at just now where cost will be less than additional value . I’ve stopped looking at percentages , they cost what they cost .
I’ve done some underbuildings with awkward Groundworks that cost more per sqm than others I’ve done at twice the size .
at the moment here ,its hardly worth extending houses , as the cost will be hard to get a return on ,eg ,a house just up the road from me ,70s place 3bed nice plot but awkward access no bigger than a tranny ,hasnt been lived in for 3 years ,no heating ,all woodwork windows facias etc fecked. mice and rats everywhere ,just sold for 500grand ,
 
pettsy

pettsy

Well-known member
Didn’t work out the sqM cost for our extension, just asked builder to price from rough dimensions for the shell 😂 I trust him as he worked on my previous place and didn’t nail me on any extra work. Just got to sort planning app now.
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
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L

LKSF

Pennine Hillbilly
That's looking very good :cool: You breathe a big sigh of relief when covered and roofed in for Winter.
I prefer joint fill as it takes less talent so I can do it :LOL: The downsides are (sadly) they never made a TE board with the ends done, so you end up with humps when you join end to end. I've got to somehow get 10 x 4 boards upstairs to do our walls here because of that, i'm going to have to take the window out and put a scaffold up just to get them in.
You probably know this, but make sure you either don't wallpaper it, or make provision if you do.
 
6

6feetdown

Well-known member
That's looking very good :cool: You breathe a big sigh of relief when covered and roofed in for Winter.
I prefer joint fill as it takes less talent so I can do it :LOL: The downsides are (sadly) they never made a TE board with the ends done, so you end up with humps when you join end to end. I've got to somehow get 10 x 4 boards upstairs to do our walls here because of that, i'm going to have to take the window out and put a scaffold up just to get them in.
You probably know this, but make sure you either don't wallpaper it, or make provision if you do.
Pretty sure there a tool that allows you to taper the edge, a lot less waste too
 
L

LKSF

Pennine Hillbilly
Pretty sure there a tool that allows you to taper the edge, a lot less waste too
Unless it compresses it you'll be through the paper and into the porous fragile gypsum core though, any ideas what it's called or where to find one?
Many years ago out of sheer frustration and bloody mindedness I took a power planer to some and put a taper on the ends :rolleyes: Sealed them with unibond and filled them.
It wasn't the best solution, but I seem to remember it worked.
Wouldn't recommend it though and am surprised no-one has ever made PBs with them on for ceilings.
 
6

6feetdown

Well-known member
Unless it compresses it you'll be through the paper and into the porous fragile gypsum core though, any ideas what it's called or where to find one?
Many years ago out of sheer frustration and bloody mindedness I took a power planer to some and put a taper on the ends :rolleyes: Sealed them with unibond and filled them.
It wasn't the best solution, but I seem to remember it worked.
Wouldn't recommend it though and am surprised no-one has ever made PBs with them on for ceilings.
I'm sure it was like a big biscuit jointer cut underneath the paper
 
6

6feetdown

Well-known member
Unless it compresses it you'll be through the paper and into the porous fragile gypsum core though, any ideas what it's called or where to find one?
Many years ago out of sheer frustration and bloody mindedness I took a power planer to some and put a taper on the ends :rolleyes: Sealed them with unibond and filled them.
It wasn't the best solution, but I seem to remember it worked.
Wouldn't recommend it though and am surprised no-one has ever made PBs with them on for ceilings.
Just had a look online can't see anything was probably 10 years ago when seen it
 
Lancs Lad

Lancs Lad

Well-known member
Look at the source though they have a big agenda to push about woke ism and this kind of stuff, it’s like the daily mail and run up to brexit, if you say it enough people believe
But I've followed this topic for a bit and it's sadly a high possibility.
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
What is the wall construction vinny? Block cavity wall then clad? Or sip panels then clad? What you cladding it with?

Giles
It’s a 150mm timber frame kit that’s structural . That carries the roof load on the inner leaf . It’s insulated with 150 frametherm 35 , then it has a 40mm layer of kingspan on the inner face that is taped at the joints. That is strapped to create a service zone and then the plasterboard goes onto that strapping .
On the outside of the 150mm frame you have the breathable membrane TF200 thermo protect .
Outside has 2 different facades . The majority of it is rendered blockwork . There is an outer leaf of blocks on the found that we build up from , leaving 50mm cavity gap. The other area is timber cladding. This is attached to the timber frame kit on battens and counter battens and has a instcumiscent cavity closer in the cavity gap .
 
Lancs Lad

Lancs Lad

Well-known member
It’s a 150mm timber frame kit that’s structural . That carries the roof load on the inner leaf . It’s insulated with 150 frametherm 35 , then it has a 40mm layer of kingspan on the inner face that is taped at the joints. That is strapped to create a service zone and then the plasterboard goes onto that strapping .
On the outside of the 150mm frame you have the breathable membrane TF200 thermo protect .
Outside has 2 different facades . The majority of it is rendered blockwork . There is an outer leaf of blocks on the found that we build up from , leaving 50mm cavity gap. The other area is timber cladding. This is attached to the timber frame kit on battens and counter battens and has a instcumiscent cavity closer in the cavity gap .
Nice one. Do you mind me asking who did the kit? For future research . DM if you want.
 
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