Vinpetrol
Well-known member
The 1 was on the left same as the pic .
Yes I do . Do you mean to just test the resistance ?
Yes I do . Do you mean to just test the resistance ?
Vinpetrol
Well-known member
Vinpetrol
Well-known member
Another meter ordered from Amazon , hopefully get it tomorrow (I have no idea how they do it !)
Gecko
Well-known member
Yes, just a reality check for your meter - looks fine.
I'm kinda flying blind here as I haven't worked on an A127, but from the outside, all the terminals only have a small number of possible functions/ characteristics.
We've established the Brown/Yellow wire is from the dash light, so a test there is in order.
Disconnect this wire from the W terminal and connect it to ground. Then turn on the ignition and see if the lamp lights.
- if it does, chop the ring off and replace with a spade terminal.
- if it doesn't, it could be a blown globe in the dash.
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jd6820
Well-known member
As @Gecko suggests we are essentially going round the houses just confusing the job. The wiring diagram you provided and my prior knowledge of Ford Digger/Tractor wiring suggests the Brown/Yellow should lead back to the dash bulb. Grounding this wire should cause the battery light on the dash to illuminate and if left in open air (disconnected) the battery light should go out. It goes without saying this is all with the key in the position (ignition on).
Then we need to establish what purpose the black wire serves. I suspect this is the real issue behind it not charging. You can either bypass the temp sensor if it hasn't already been or simply purchase a different alternator using the same mounting points and use the dash bulb to excite the field and not have any other wiring required.
Then we need to establish what purpose the black wire serves. I suspect this is the real issue behind it not charging. You can either bypass the temp sensor if it hasn't already been or simply purchase a different alternator using the same mounting points and use the dash bulb to excite the field and not have any other wiring required.
jd6820
Well-known member
Not the case I'm afraid, have another look at the diagram. Think you'll find it is running both the coil circuit and supply to the starter relay via two safety switches, this is then connected to White/Red which is the starter solenoid terminal. Not suppling the starter direct.... The diagram is I would say correct for the OP's machine.
jd6820
Well-known member
Nah it'll be just fine as long as he didn't put the any of the probes in the 10Amp position. The internal resistance inside the meter will be in the magnitude of 10Mohms so will pass little current and hence why a multimeter rarely disrupts the circuit it is connected too. More expensive meters have a relative function that allows you to zero out the resistance of the leads (the 0.04ohms) his meter reads when the leads are touching each other.
Canal Navvy
Well-known member
1, Ground the wire currently fitted to the W terminal. The charge light should light
2, Pull the regulator off and look for brush length and signs of burning.
If both good replace the ring with a 1/4" female spade and put it on the alternator next to the two bigger 3/8" , hopefully you'll then get something like 14 volts.
If not it's probably a better bet to fit a new replacement alternator
2, Pull the regulator off and look for brush length and signs of burning.
If both good replace the ring with a 1/4" female spade and put it on the alternator next to the two bigger 3/8" , hopefully you'll then get something like 14 volts.
If not it's probably a better bet to fit a new replacement alternator
Gecko
Well-known member
This is my 3CX with (almost) the same alternator
Vinpetrol
Well-known member
Ok . Thanks for perserving with this gents .
Seems I may have a wiring issue as well . I’ve checked the bulb and it works fine . I’ve earthed the brown and yellow wire at the alternator and the bulb is not lighting up. I’ve checked the 12v supply to the bulb (green wire) and it has no power at it with ignition on . There is a fuse with a battery symbol . I checked the fuse location and there is no power to it . I then checked the ignition . I have 12v coming into the ignition via brown wires to 1 terminal when I turn ignition on I have additional power at 1 other terminal which has 3 white wires .
The other 3 terminals don’t change with ignition on or off.
Does is sound knackered ?
Seems I may have a wiring issue as well . I’ve checked the bulb and it works fine . I’ve earthed the brown and yellow wire at the alternator and the bulb is not lighting up. I’ve checked the 12v supply to the bulb (green wire) and it has no power at it with ignition on . There is a fuse with a battery symbol . I checked the fuse location and there is no power to it . I then checked the ignition . I have 12v coming into the ignition via brown wires to 1 terminal when I turn ignition on I have additional power at 1 other terminal which has 3 white wires .
The other 3 terminals don’t change with ignition on or off.
Does is sound knackered ?
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Vinpetrol
Well-known member
Just looking at the wiring drawing , it is the white wires that take the supply to the fuse box so my issue may be at the fuse box .
M
Monkeybusiness
Well-known member
Yeah, it’s clearly goosed. I’ll do you a massive favour and give you £500 for it if you deliver it to me in Cheshire….
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Attachments
Vinpetrol
Well-known member
5 pole . I had the switch off and it’s a Lucas 128SA
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Vinpetrol
Well-known member
I’ve done a bit more digging , I’ve got the ignition , and fuse box out of the dash and I can’t see any issues at the fuse box .
I’ve also found a wiring diagram that looks much closer to my tractor with 5 terminal ignition
Here’s the drawing and the items list.
I’ve also found a wiring diagram that looks much closer to my tractor with 5 terminal ignition
Here’s the drawing and the items list.
Vinpetrol
Well-known member
From the drawing I’ve established that the brown and yellow wire go from alternator to dash light and gives an earth for bulb to light up. The power supply to the other side of this alternator light seems to be my first problem . This supply seems to come from an ignition relay (item 71)
It comes from terminal 87 white wire on the relay goes through fuse 4 and changes to a green wire then goes to the dash bulbs.
I’m assuming this relay may be my problem ?
Can anyone tell me from the drawing how does the ignition light go off once the engine starts ?
Does the brown and yellow from the alternator cease delivering an earth from the alternator or does the 12v supply from the ignition relay stop delivering 12v to the alternator light bulb ?
It comes from terminal 87 white wire on the relay goes through fuse 4 and changes to a green wire then goes to the dash bulbs.
I’m assuming this relay may be my problem ?
Can anyone tell me from the drawing how does the ignition light go off once the engine starts ?
Does the brown and yellow from the alternator cease delivering an earth from the alternator or does the 12v supply from the ignition relay stop delivering 12v to the alternator light bulb ?
Canal Navvy
Well-known member
Once the alternator starts charging what was an earth path becomes a live so the bulb effectively has voltage each side so doesn't light
Vinpetrol
Well-known member
That’s helpful . That tells me that the green wire on the other side of the charging bulb should be live once ignition is on and also when engine is running.
Now I’m getting somewhere . I need info on the ignition relay now
Vinpetrol
Well-known member
Is this ignition relay a bog standard relay ?
I can’t find one for sale with terminal 15
I can’t find one for sale with terminal 15
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