K
kev G
New member
hi, i have a terex hd1000, while using it, it cut out, and now i have no electrics at all. Tried a new anti start module, nothing, turn the key and no dash lights and no starting, any ideas, cheers.
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
earth leads fell off the chassis? or cell gone down in battery or main +ve feed broken to dash / ignition switch .... time for some creative wiring to bypass stuff
K
kev G
New member
battery new, checked earth lead, got 12.65v at ignition
Stubota86
Well-known member
Be worth checking the ignition switch and emergency cut off
Mick-the-fitter
It’s what I do!
Try the battery isolator (red key) join the two cables by bolting them to the same bolt on the back of the isolator, thermal trip in the dash panel, or just start right back at the battery.
jd6820
Well-known member
Not sure how many were fitted with isolator keys, none of the ones I've dealt with have been and that's a few! First check is the emergency stop, easy to check but unlikely to have stopped suddenly during use. This to me screams thermal trip, there are one or two (dependant on spec) first check they are both reset, second check power across both sides from inside the dashboard. Whilst here check the power supply to the key. If nothing is found to be permanently live at the control panel (thick red, brown or brown/white) then remove the panel at your knees and there is a multi-plug see if you are getting power both sides. They are a very simple machine electrically and my experience is the wiring at the dash is usually the main source of problems.... The anti-start module doesn't ever wipe out power to the dash completely. It controls starting/stopping and releases the motor brakes, an expensive part if memory serves me correctly.
Any questions just ask, but others have come up with some good suggestions.
Any questions just ask, but others have come up with some good suggestions.
jd6820
Well-known member
Here is a wiring diagram, that dependant on age may suit your machine...
Mick-the-fitter
It’s what I do!
Sorry was thinking 1 ton Thwaites for battery isolator
H
Howdeedoodee
Member
HI folks
I,ve got the same problem, no starting.
1. Got 12v power to the ignition switch but the dumper wont start from the ignition switch.
2. Got 12v power in to relays. (this is a red wire looped into each relay to give it power but no 12v out on any of the other wires coming out of each relay.
3. I can start the dumper if i run temporary12v to the starter motor solenoid but it wont continue to run when i take the temporary 12v wire off, when its running i can drive it forward and backwards but i think the starter motor continues turn so i take off the temporary 12v becuase i dont want to overheat and burn out the starter motor.
4. I traced the 12v wire (white wire red stripe) that goes into the stater motor solinoid back to one of the two big relays (the 2nd to end one) (not the smaller 6 relays)
5. The wires to this relay are black ground, white wire with red stripe, A thick red from the ignition switch joined together with a thinner red wire that goes off somewhere else, and a orange wire.
6. If i run a temporary 12v wire to the orange wire it seems to energise the relay then starts from the ignition switch as normal....but again i think the starter motor is continually runing.
The 2 magnetic sensors on the stick that drives the dumper forward and backward
When you pull the stick backwards one of the magnetic sensors makes the first small relay click.
But when you push the stick forward theres no clicking from any relays.
Both the magnetic sensors have tiny orange LED'S on them and both turn on and off when you actuate the stick.
Basically they are magnetic switches and they operate if you just touch them on something metal.
I have tested with a multimeter both switches and they both seem to open and close circuit as normal even though the front one doesnt make any solenoids click.
When you pull the stick back both orange LED'S light up but only one orange LED lights up if you push the stick forward.
I've unclipped every single connector i can find and cleaned with brake clean and a micro wire brush on a dremel, i then gave all teminals a squirt of wd40.
Every suspect wire i stripped back to new copper and resoldered.
Note: I've cut and soldered together temporarily for now the wires to both resettable fuses and also the emergency stop button to remove them from the equation.
The start stop controller only has one led light on it which is light number 3.
The start stop controller has 3 led lights numbered 1,2 and 3.
When i move the stick forward and backward nothing changes on the controller?
A few thoughts
A. Is it me or is the starter motor NOT still turning when i bypass everything to be able to start it...i cant tell becuase of the noise of the engine.
B.Why are all wires from the relays dead except for the live red going into the relays?...even though the ignition is on.
C. I noticed that the main red light that comes on when you turn the ignition switch on has for wire's into it?? why so many wires for just a led?? you would of thought wive and ground would be enough.
D. Why does the dumper not continue to run once you bypassed and started it then removed the bypass, you would of thought once its started it should continue to run.
C. Why do i have to keep the ignition switch turned to start to make it continue to run once its started, if i let go of the ignition switch to run the engine stops.
Note:
After trying everything I dismantled the ignition switch to see if everything is ok and it looks perfect inside with no corrosion or anything, so i put the ignition switch back together and reconnected the wire's after first taking a photo to be sure.
I've tried pretty much everything i can think of.
I've read somewhere that the 3 red led's should change when you move the stick?? but mine doesnt.
Do you think relay problems??
Any help or advice would be great because I've done every thing i can think of and spent 5 hours do every test i can with a multimeter using dc and continuity.
Thanks
John
I,ve got the same problem, no starting.
1. Got 12v power to the ignition switch but the dumper wont start from the ignition switch.
2. Got 12v power in to relays. (this is a red wire looped into each relay to give it power but no 12v out on any of the other wires coming out of each relay.
3. I can start the dumper if i run temporary12v to the starter motor solenoid but it wont continue to run when i take the temporary 12v wire off, when its running i can drive it forward and backwards but i think the starter motor continues turn so i take off the temporary 12v becuase i dont want to overheat and burn out the starter motor.
4. I traced the 12v wire (white wire red stripe) that goes into the stater motor solinoid back to one of the two big relays (the 2nd to end one) (not the smaller 6 relays)
5. The wires to this relay are black ground, white wire with red stripe, A thick red from the ignition switch joined together with a thinner red wire that goes off somewhere else, and a orange wire.
6. If i run a temporary 12v wire to the orange wire it seems to energise the relay then starts from the ignition switch as normal....but again i think the starter motor is continually runing.
The 2 magnetic sensors on the stick that drives the dumper forward and backward
When you pull the stick backwards one of the magnetic sensors makes the first small relay click.
But when you push the stick forward theres no clicking from any relays.
Both the magnetic sensors have tiny orange LED'S on them and both turn on and off when you actuate the stick.
Basically they are magnetic switches and they operate if you just touch them on something metal.
I have tested with a multimeter both switches and they both seem to open and close circuit as normal even though the front one doesnt make any solenoids click.
When you pull the stick back both orange LED'S light up but only one orange LED lights up if you push the stick forward.
I've unclipped every single connector i can find and cleaned with brake clean and a micro wire brush on a dremel, i then gave all teminals a squirt of wd40.
Every suspect wire i stripped back to new copper and resoldered.
Note: I've cut and soldered together temporarily for now the wires to both resettable fuses and also the emergency stop button to remove them from the equation.
The start stop controller only has one led light on it which is light number 3.
The start stop controller has 3 led lights numbered 1,2 and 3.
When i move the stick forward and backward nothing changes on the controller?
A few thoughts
A. Is it me or is the starter motor NOT still turning when i bypass everything to be able to start it...i cant tell becuase of the noise of the engine.
B.Why are all wires from the relays dead except for the live red going into the relays?...even though the ignition is on.
C. I noticed that the main red light that comes on when you turn the ignition switch on has for wire's into it?? why so many wires for just a led?? you would of thought wive and ground would be enough.
D. Why does the dumper not continue to run once you bypassed and started it then removed the bypass, you would of thought once its started it should continue to run.
C. Why do i have to keep the ignition switch turned to start to make it continue to run once its started, if i let go of the ignition switch to run the engine stops.
Note:
After trying everything I dismantled the ignition switch to see if everything is ok and it looks perfect inside with no corrosion or anything, so i put the ignition switch back together and reconnected the wire's after first taking a photo to be sure.
I've tried pretty much everything i can think of.
I've read somewhere that the 3 red led's should change when you move the stick?? but mine doesnt.
Do you think relay problems??
Any help or advice would be great because I've done every thing i can think of and spent 5 hours do every test i can with a multimeter using dc and continuity.
Thanks
John
H
Howdeedoodee
Member
I forgot to say that when i run a 12v wire to the orange wire on the relay to energise it i do get a 2nd light on the start/stop controller.
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
wow ....
lorra Qs....
and no pix
I would guess that -- yes the starter is running all the time you have the ignition switch/hot wire held in start position
I would also assume that your stop solenoid is being energised via the crank position on the switch, but not being fed a live when you return from crank to run position .. so you need to track down that fault first, so you can at least run the engine to try to isolate some of the other faults (which may also be due to no constant live coming from the ignition switch in run position)
lorra Qs....
and no pix
I would guess that -- yes the starter is running all the time you have the ignition switch/hot wire held in start position
I would also assume that your stop solenoid is being energised via the crank position on the switch, but not being fed a live when you return from crank to run position .. so you need to track down that fault first, so you can at least run the engine to try to isolate some of the other faults (which may also be due to no constant live coming from the ignition switch in run position)
jd6820
Well-known member
Yeah as @V8Druid suggests that’s a lot of questions and I’m afraid some of the work you have carried out might be a step away from the root of the problem but plenty of detail to go off.
I’ll try and keep it simple for the machine to start the module is looking for three properties firstly that the drive lever is in neutral, secondly that the seat switch is activated and finally that the emergency stop is not actuated. I think your issue could be related to the seat switch or emergency stop. Have you tested it?
As you have correctly identified the exciter wire is wht/red and the orange wire you speak of is linked to the anti-start module. This unit also feeds other relays hence the no run situation…..
Check the seat switch and report back then we’ll go from there
I’ll try and keep it simple for the machine to start the module is looking for three properties firstly that the drive lever is in neutral, secondly that the seat switch is activated and finally that the emergency stop is not actuated. I think your issue could be related to the seat switch or emergency stop. Have you tested it?
As you have correctly identified the exciter wire is wht/red and the orange wire you speak of is linked to the anti-start module. This unit also feeds other relays hence the no run situation…..
Check the seat switch and report back then we’ll go from there
Last edited:
H
Howdeedoodee
Member
Ok, thanks.wow ....
lorra Qs....
and no pix
I would guess that -- yes the starter is running all the time you have the ignition switch/hot wire held in start position
I would also assume that your stop solenoid is being energised via the crank position on the switch, but not being fed a live when you return from crank to run position .. so you need to track down that fault first, so you can at least run the engine to try to isolate some of the other faults (which may also be due to no constant live coming from the ignition switch in run position)
There's about 7 wires coming out the ignition switch and I'm not sure where they are all meant to be going and doing what, a traditional wiring diagrame would be great but the only one i can find doesnt really give much info.
I've traced everything back starting at the battery and working backwards and everthing seems to come to a dead end at the relays...like power going into them but nothing out even when the ignition key is at run and crank positions.
I even then traced from the ignition switch working backwards that way...but again all dead at relays.
so to clarify there's 12v into relays on red wire but absolutly nothing out on any of the other 3-4 wires coming out of relays, obviously there's ground out of each one then approximately 3 colored.
I'll try again tomorrow with a fresh head.
PS: Brought a brand new 3 ton Sany last week and loving it....but no dumper to go with it now, been working flat out for 3 months with new digger business.
H
Howdeedoodee
Member
Where can i get a service manaul for the HD1000, having that may help me find the problem.
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
JD6820 has far greater knowledge of these than I do for sure ... I am generalising in my responses ... he's actually seen/worked on said beasts ... and knows their foibles..... I'm just chucking general ideas in the pot
H
Howdeedoodee
Member
Ok thanks for that I'll pm him tomorrow.JD6820 has far greater knowledge of these than I do for sure ... I am generalising in my responses ... he's actually seen/worked on said beasts ... and knows their foibles..... I'm just chucking general ideas in the pot
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
so there's a live feed to one side of the switching terminals in the relays,
........ but there won't be anything coming out until they've been activated what do these relays control ??
jd6820
Well-known member
See document above and look at the first two diagrams the colours are all abbreviated and there to see.
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
what a can of worms ..... WTF is this 'anti-start module' JD and what controls it ?See document above and look at the first two diagrams the colours are all abbreviated and there to see.
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