Case cx 130 overcooling

Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
assume you're talking the pan of water ??

you really do need to get a thermometer in it to check opening temperature accurately .... if it's opening early it'll never warm up in winter ...... but as said the new one was no better ?? :unsure::unsure:

what's the seat like in the thermostat housing ... not able to allow any bypass flow??? / corroded away anywhere?? / clamping the thermostat in place firmly ??
Yes the pan of water . I think 2 faulty stats is unlikely . It has a rubber seal that fits to the rim of the stat and it’s sandwiched between the thermostat housing and lid . It looked like a good fit . The original seal was cracked and perished though and could of well let coolant by . The new one seemed to go together nicely .
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Yes the pan of water . I think 2 faulty stats is unlikely . It has a rubber seal that fits to the rim of the stat and it’s sandwiched between the thermostat housing and lid . It looked like a good fit . The original seal was cracked and perished though and could of well let coolant by . The new one seemed to go together nicely .
did the new one have the jiggle pin in place ?

try tuning the heater off in the cab until the engine gets up to temp. .... yer never know, the extra matrix in the heater might just be enough not to allow it to get up to working temp. .... then open the heater matrix in the cab and see if it drops back off or manages to sustain the operating temp. once the coolant is up there ?:unsure:
mine has a tap to turn off the flow to the heater matrix, but your 'fancier' one'll probably have a hot/cold slider, which should control a coolant valve to close the flow off
 
Canal Navvy

Canal Navvy

Well-known member
I have a 4BD1T in the Land Rover and it has always tended to run cold. The bod who had it converted before I bought it did say that the Isuzu was the only engine conversion that he tried that didn't try to overheat.

I wonder if they are inherently cool running?

I have to cover most of the radiator and in the recent cold weather all of it (and I have checked the engine temp. with a gauge)
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
I have a 4BD1T in the Land Rover and it has always tended to run cold. The bod who had it converted before I bought it did say that the Isuzu was the only engine conversion that he tried that didn't try to overheat.

I wonder if they are inherently cool running?

I have to cover most of the radiator and in the recent cold weather all of it (and I have checked the engine temp. with a gauge)
That’ll be a weapon !
ive had it years and years and never had an issue in the cold before . I will try covering a bit of rad and see what happens .
what temp was it running at when you checked it ?
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
did the new one have the jiggle pin in place ?

try tuning the heater off in the cab until the engine gets up to temp. .... yer never know, the extra matrix in the heater might just be enough not to allow it to get up to working temp. .... then open the heater matrix in the cab and see if it drops back off or manages to sustain the operating temp. once the coolant is up there ?:unsure:
mine has a tap to turn off the flow to the heater matrix, but your 'fancier' one'll probably have a hot/cold slider, which should control a coolant valve to close the flow off
Yes it did (I think! )
My heater controls are all electric in with the air con . It’s a digital gauge . I don’t think I can stop the flow with it though . I’ve not seen a valve anywhere on it . I could put a vice grip on the pipes though
 
Canal Navvy

Canal Navvy

Well-known member
That’ll be a weapon !
ive had it years and years and never had an issue in the cold before . I will try covering a bit of rad and see what happens .
what temp was it running at when you checked it ?
Late 70s early 80s.

Temp sender started mucking about so I took the covering off the grill before going on a 150 mile drive towing on the motorway and damn near froze 😬😬
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Yes it did (I think! )
My heater controls are all electric in with the air con . It’s a digital gauge . I don’t think I can stop the flow with it though . I’ve not seen a valve anywhere on it . I could put a vice grip on the pipes though
:oops::oops: ....... pipe clamp'd be kinder (y) .... worth a try
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
Waiting for concrete this morning 🙄( mixer broken down) I took my stat out for another look and refitted it . All
Looks fine with it and it was closed when I opened it up so I’m going to assume that it is fine.
I’m actually looking now at my heater controls .
I have a digital temperature setting . It goes up to 32 . This must mean that in the heater there must be some electronic control of the temperature of the heat . The matrix is just like old standard style with a pipe in and a pipe out . So how does it control the temperature ? Because I could have a fault with whatever adjusts this control .
Any thoughts ?
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Waiting for concrete this morning 🙄( mixer broken down) I took my stat out for another look and refitted it . All
Looks fine with it and it was closed when I opened it up so I’m going to assume that it is fine.
I’m actually looking now at my heater controls .
I have a digital temperature setting . It goes up to 32 . This must mean that in the heater there must be some electronic control of the temperature of the heat . The matrix is just like old standard style with a pipe in and a pipe out . So how does it control the temperature ? Because I could have a fault with whatever adjusts this control .
Any thoughts ?
probably 'blends' hot and cold air via flaps and reads the out coming air temp .... would guess it's a constant coolant flow through the matrix and merely controlled by the amount of air passed over it ... much like a P38 system .. no coolant flow control valve .... would either have to pinch it off, bypass it, or put a tap in the feed line, to close it off. is the matrix hot to the touch if you can get at it??
's a bloody odd fault
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
probably 'blends' hot and cold air via flaps and reads the out coming air temp .... would guess it's a constant coolant flow through the matrix and merely controlled by the amount of air passed over it ... much like a P38 system .. no coolant flow control valve .... would either have to pinch it off, bypass it, or put a tap in the feed line, to close it off. is the matrix hot to the touch if you can get at it??
's a bloody odd fault
I can’t get near it . To get to it I need to take the left hand control lever housing off remove the seat and strip the panels out of the back 😡.
I think I will need to wait til I can get near a hose with a good pressure and disconnect the heater hoses at the engine and run clean water through them for a bit just to check the matrix isn’t choked . Whatever is operating to control the temperature must be working because if I adjust the temp up and down I can here something moving in there !
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
I can’t get near it . To get to it I need to take the left hand control lever housing off remove the seat and strip the panels out of the back 😡.
I think I will need to wait til I can get near a hose with a good pressure and disconnect the heater hoses at the engine and run clean water through them for a bit just to check the matrix isn’t choked . Whatever is operating to control the temperature must be working because if I adjust the temp up and down I can here something moving in there !
Any idea how I can figure out which heater hose is the return from the matrix so I can back flush it ?
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I can’t get near it . To get to it I need to take the left hand control lever housing off remove the seat and strip the panels out of the back 😡.
I think I will need to wait til I can get near a hose with a good pressure and disconnect the heater hoses at the engine and run clean water through them for a bit just to check the matrix isn’t choked . Whatever is operating to control the temperature must be working because if I adjust the temp up and down I can here something moving in there !
why flush the heater matrix out .... you've already said the main rad is not getting up to temp., not the heater matrix .... I was suggesting taking the heater out of the equation to minimise the amount of cooling for the motor and see if it got up to op. temp. with the extra out the circuit.
if the heater was blocked it'd have more of a tendency to raise the cooling system's temp. not lower it.
Any idea how I can figure out which heater hose is the return from the matrix so I can back flush it ?
the feed'll almost certainly be spur-ed off the water pump, or very close to it, I'd have thought, return'll almost certainly go back into the block somewhere IMHDO

possibly here (feed)
is4bg1tec-2913040yw.jpg
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
The other pipe is connected directly behind it , you can just see it if you look below the one you arrowed. Can’t see how to tell which is which
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
why flush the heater matrix out .... you've already said the main rad is not getting up to temp., not the heater matrix .... I was suggesting taking the heater out of the equation to minimise the amount of cooling for the motor and see if it got up to op. temp. with the extra out the circuit.
if the heater was blocked it'd have more of a tendency to raise the cooling system's temp. not lower it.

I think my stat is working . I can see the flow in the top of the rad . I’m now doubting that I’m overcooling at all other than what you’d expect for the time of year.
If this thought is correct my lack of heater may be blocked Matrix. Do you think I’m going in the wrong direction?
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
The other pipe is connected directly behind it , you can just see it if you look below the one you ringed. Can’t see how to tell which is which
This one arrowed ?
is4bg1tec-2913040yw.jpg

does it go into the thermo housing or the block .... IMHDO, without seeing it, the ringed one'd be the feed to the heater, just below the thermostat ... t'other'd return to block?
 
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V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I think my stat is working . I can see the flow in the top of the rad . I’m now doubting that I’m overcooling at all other than what you’d expect for the time of year.
If this thought is correct my lack of heater may be blocked Matrix. Do you think I’m going in the wrong direction?
ah right ... you're moving the goal posts here now Vin :p:giggle: .....
if that's the case then yeh, fine, try a matrix flush .. My choice'd be feed your flushing hose into the lower hose as i would expect that upper hose, connected to the thermo housing, to be your usual feed to the matrix, so to back flush use its opposite number.
I would not advise too much in the way of pressure .... the matrix is not the beefiest item in the world to go pressurising --- especially if you suspect a blockage :oops:
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
That’s the other pipe you have arrowed right enough. Both come from just below the housing there is a 90 degree fitting just after the jubilee clips you can see
A238CE5A-921B-4373-9974-B8A21F7F2026.jpeg
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I think my stat is working . I can see the flow in the top of the rad . I’m now doubting that I’m overcooling at all other than what you’d expect for the time of year.
If this thought is correct my lack of heater may be blocked Matrix. Do you think I’m going in the wrong direction?
another thought ..... could be a collapsed rubber hose internally in either feed or return, stopping flow .... wouldn't be the first and there is very little pressure to overcome that in the cooling system's flow
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
ah right ... you're moving the goal posts here now Vin :p:giggle: .....
if that's the case then yeh, fine, try a matrix flush .. My choice'd be feed your flushing hose into the lower hose as i would expect that upper hose, connected to the thermo housing, to be your usual feed to the matrix, so to back flush use its opposite number.
I would not advise too much in the way of pressure .... the matrix is not the beefiest item in the world to go pressurising --- especially if you suspect a blockage :oops:
This is a fast moving subject ! You need to keep up buddy !!
I may be clutching at straws but I need to try something . I’m not convinced it’s blocked as the machine has always had decent antifreeze but its somewhere to start .
Will try the lower of the 2 pipes to connect flushing flow .
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
looks to me to be going into the block below and to the side of the thermo housing vin red arrow

t'other is going into a boss in the housing green arrow
A238CE5A-921B-4373-9974-B8A21F7F2026.jpeg
 
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