Nissan Navara 4wd system.

[Powerfab]

Not heard of that problem before. And I'd be interested to know the solution.
If it happened on mine I'd start with diagnostics and go from there

Unfortunately I don't have sufficent trace equipment to diagnose this one.
Fuses and relays checked, OBDB scanner shows no faults. As its only one light out it must be the connection or controller at the light unit.

 

[Diggerdavey]

Unfortunately I don't have sufficent trace equipment to diagnose this one.
Fuses and relays checked, OBDB scanner shows no faults. As its only one light out it must be the connection or controller at the light unit.

Check for water ingress in to light and or controller. They are in a vulnerable area

 

[Storrsy]

That's good to hear your getting those kind of miles. I bought mine with 103k miles same as yours had just been going up and down the motorway. I really like mine and going to get it all professionally protected underneath. Dinitrol think chap was saying- he needs it for a week to do it properly. But think money well spent if it helps keep rust away.

 

[Jimoz]

That's good to hear your getting those kind of miles. I bought mine with 103k miles same as yours had just been going up and down the motorway. I really like mine and going to get it all professionally protected underneath. Dinitrol think chap was saying- he needs it for a week to do it properly. But think money well spent if it helps keep rust away.

Had our old e36 done with dinitrol like you say they had it around a week. Unfortunately he's wrapped up now but others who do it. Not seen any rot on it must be getting on for 6 or 7 years ago

 

[Brendan]

Start with the easier option, disconnect the battery for 20 mins.
Is there any option on your reader to reset the bcm?
Alternatively do you know anyone with the same year and model who would let you swap out their headlight to see what happens, although if it's a wiring issue there's a slim chance of making that headlight a problem too

 

[craig]

Someone local`ish had their navara stolen from outside the house a couple of weeks ago, a`17 plate I think, I`ve since read they are a bit of a target at the moment.

 

[Powerfab]

That's good to hear your getting those kind of miles. I bought mine with 103k miles same as yours had just been going up and down the motorway. I really like mine and going to get it all professionally protected underneath. Dinitrol think chap was saying- he needs it for a week to do it properly. But think money well spent if it helps keep rust away.

I've used both Dinitrol and Bilt Hamber at different times. I reckon you won't go wrong with either, both make excellent products. Anything is better than Waxoyl crap.

I've used Lanoguard as well, good for coating areas where you want to see what's going on underneath, and where you're happy to be recoating every year.
If Navara becomes a long term fixture I'll probably do maintenance top up every couple of years with lanoguard.

 

[Powerfab]

Start with the easier option, disconnect the battery for 20 mins.
Is there any option on your reader to reset the bcm?
Alternatively do you know anyone with the same year and model who would let you swap out their headlight to see what happens, although if it's a wiring issue there's a slim chance of making that headlight a problem too

Might try the battery disconnect. Just hope the radio isn't coded as at one point last spring the battery was virtually flat one morning. I'm wondering if DRL fault started around that time, but it's not something you're aware of unless looking at reflection in someone's rearview window.

 

[Storrsy]

Brake disc and pads needed for fronts. Any recommendations for makes? @Routy56

 

[Brendan]

Brake disc and pads needed for fronts. Any recommendations for makes? @Routy56

Ebc yellow stuff for pads was night and day difference on my ranger, also went for the grooved discs, they do a heavy duty pad also which is meant to last longer but squeal like a banshee for a few thousand miles and not as sharp as the yellow stuff but last a lot longer

 

[Powerfab]

Just an update lads, Navara sailed through the MOT Friday evening, no issues at all, not even an advisory.
Good thing about an evening appointment, on automatic sidelights DRL didn't get noticed

I was well chuffed when the examiner handing it back said he usually expects rust buckets with pickups, instead he'd never seen one so clean underneath, at any age.

Might just keep this girl a few more years, give her some TLC.

 

[Storrsy]

Ebc yellow stuff for pads was night and day difference on my ranger, also went for the grooved discs, they do a heavy duty pad also which is meant to last longer but squeal like a banshee for a few thousand miles and not as sharp as the yellow stuff but last a lot longer

Thanks just ended up with going with the Juratek ones from local parts place was there till 11pm fitting them after work Fair to say old pads were knackered and annoying because by the time they start making a noise they'd scored the disc pretty bad which would have otherwise had a fair bit of life left In them.

 

[Brendan]

Thanks just ended up with going with the Juratek ones from local parts place was there till 11pm fitting them after work Fair to say old pads were knackered and annoying because by the time they start making a noise they'd scored the disc pretty bad which would have otherwise had a fair bit of life left In them.

Was only one pad worn like that? Might have a sticking caliper, new shape rangers and assuming the amarok eat rear pads for fun as the rear calipers seem to stick or be used way too much

 

[Storrsy]

Was only one pad worn like that? Might have a sticking caliper, new shape rangers and assuming the amarok eat rear pads for fun as the rear calipers seem to stick or be used way too much

Yes one side was much worse than the other. I wondered about the calipers but the pistons seemed to go back in easily enough. I guess if it happens again I'll have to do the callipers as well.

 

[Smiffy]

Yes one side was much worse than the other. I wondered about the calipers but the pistons seemed to go back in easily enough. I guess if it happens again I'll have to do the callipers as well.

The sliders seize on the caliper so they apply uneven pressure. This can sometimes be a cheap fix. The ones on my wife's old rav where £10

 

[V8Druid]

The sliders seize on the caliper so they apply uneven pressure. This can sometimes be a cheap fix. The ones on my wife's old rav where £10

it also pays to spend time when you have them off to take care to remove all the built up rust/crud/crap on the carriers and sliders to give them a better chance of not sticking in one position ... well worth the effort to get them back to bare metal and loads of copper slip on/in the slider pins, going back together

 

[Storrsy]

it also pays to spend time when you have them off to take care to remove all the built up rust/crud/crap on the carriers and sliders to give them a better chance of not sticking in one position ... well worth the effort to get them back to bare metal and loads of copper slip on/in the slider pins, going back together

Yeah I did all that, cooper grease on all the metal parts-except disc obvs!. Although I didn't extend the calliper pistons out and clean them up which probably would have been beneficial. My money is that the pads were binding the carrier as was all mega tight but time will tell. Parts weren't too expensive so not the end of the world if I'm back doing it again in a year or 2

 

[V8Druid]

Yeah I did all that, cooper grease on all the metal parts-except disc obvs!. Although I didn't extend the calliper pistons out and clean them up which probably would have been beneficial. My money is that the pads were binding the carrier as was all mega tight but time will tell. Parts weren't too expensive so not the end of the world if I'm back doing it again in a year or 2

I also always find the pad back plates are always burred from their being stamped out .. well worth a touch with the grinder to make sure they're not a jam/interference fit in the carrier and free to move easily in it ... all down to good ol' QC - or lack of it these days

 

[Storrsy]

I also always find the pad back plates are always burred from their being stamped out .. well worth a touch with the grinder to make sure they're not a jam/interference fit in the carrier and free to move easily in it ... all down to good ol' QC - or lack of it these days

Good point. Yeah not much room for lack of tolerance in there is there. I might have the wheel off in a few days and just check everything looks like it freeing up properly

 

[Routy56]

Brake disc and pads needed for fronts. Any recommendations for makes? @Routy56

Yep did mine last November before the MOT test. Went with Borg & Beck coated discs and pads