Slew ring removal

V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Not good I am afraid, I can’t seem to budge the bolts that hold on the slew motor (part 8.010) above. Is there a away of rotating cab without remove of this.
are you able to get a drift on top of the bolt heads to give them some shocks from a few hammer blows ... then perhaps an impact wrench, even if it's just a manual type of impact driver to 'break' the initial stiction in the threads ..
blows to the heads via a drift will help dramatically

heat to the heads is also a winner, it's whether you can actually get heat to them without doing any 'collateral' damage to the surroundings.
one method of doing this is a 4 / 5 mm electrode shorted to the head of the bolt .... that'll warm up the bolt and 'upset' any corrosion causing stiction ... the rods'll warm up pretty quick too, though
looks a right bar steward to get at, in the drawing :( and bet they're loctite-ed :cry:
 
M

Mea38

Member
A right pain, there one right under a pipe manifold that you can just about get onto, and one to the rear that I can get on but nowhere to turn it
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
A right pain, there one right under a pipe manifold that you can just about get onto, and one to the rear that I can get on but nowhere to turn it
sounds like you're going to have to take a lot more bits off to get at it then :( ..... some pix would help ... can you take any heads off and deal with the studs left in after the drive is out ... 70 mm thin disc in an air grinder/die grinder ??
 
M

Mea38

Member
Could I cut the head of the bolt from the slew ring. the alternative I think is cab off
 
M

Mea38

Member
I’ll get some pics tomorrow, sort of threw the head up today and left it!
 
M

Mea38

Member
Yeah I would prefer if they come out, one less job to deal with the aftermath. Very frustrating that it’s so close. Every day a school day.
 
Shovelhands

Shovelhands

Well-known member
Yeah I would prefer if they come out, one less job to deal with the aftermath. Very frustrating that it’s so close. Every day a school day.
Have you tried pulling the upper structure round manually? You might be surprised and it will pull round?
 
Shovelhands

Shovelhands

Well-known member
If you don’t remove the slew box then it simply means you will have to jack the top up further to clear the slew ring. But you will still need to remove the slew box if you decide to replace the pinion. Tbh I think it’s recommended to replace the pinion if you are replacing the slew ring. But I can understand that cost will have to come into this equation, as will the expected use the machine will get? So usual rules may not apply here...
 
M

Mea38

Member
I disconnected the All hoses from the slew box and tried to rotate it, even put a ratchet strap to give it a pull, moved ever slightly - didn’t want to force it. Only tried it in one direction, would that make a difference. What would be stopping it rotating
 
Shovelhands

Shovelhands

Well-known member
The slew brake is stopping it rotating. The brake is applied via a spring and released hydraulically. I wondered if the brake was worn and it would slip round, obviously not.....
 
M

Mea38

Member
Going to try a bit of heat and hammer to the hex bolts to slew motor to see how that goes. There is no way around the slew brake
 
T whiting

T whiting

Well-known member
Are all the machines hydraulics intact? Could you not just fire it up and slew it with the leaver if it's only the boom pipes that are disconnected you would still be fine as long as you didn't touch any of the other controls

If you can start it just for a minute then turn it off there should be enough pressure in the accumulator to push the slew leaver across and it'll release the slew break
 
Shovelhands

Shovelhands

Well-known member
Persevere with trying to remove the slew box, is probably your best option
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
If you don’t remove the slew box then it simply means you will have to jack the top up further to clear the slew ring. But you will still need to remove the slew box if you decide to replace the pinion. Tbh I think it’s recommended to replace the pinion if you are replacing the slew ring. But I can understand that cost will have to come into this equation, as will the expected use the machine will get? So usual rules may not apply here...
gonna have to come up higher than the pinion anyway to clear the rotary coupling, if left in place in the track frame .... plus as said the pinion ought to be replaced if there's a new ring going on.
 
Shovelhands

Shovelhands

Well-known member
gonna have to come up higher than the pinion anyway to clear the rotary coupling, if left in place in the track frame .... plus as said the pinion ought to be replaced if there's a new ring going on.
It’s difficult to tell from the pic, but yes, he got to clear the rotary. But that might just be poking through the base plate of the upper structure?
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Could I cut the head of the bolt from the slew ring. the alternative I think is cab off
are you trying to take the upper structure off the ring or the ring and upper off the track frame?
I would avoid cutting bolt heads off unless it’s a very last resort!
the bolts holding the slew drive are sat on spacer sleeves James, according to the diagram, so as well as the flange thickness protruding from the mount face there will also be the length of the spacer too, with the head off, to get a hold of ... plenty to get a hold of .... as for the ring bolts ... there will the the thickness of the carboy floor plate protruding from the ring gear to get a hold of or weld a nut onto ... plus the heat'll cook the loctite and it'll be a POP with the upper out the way ..... and if he's removing the heads from the lower ring of bolts, through the ring body, there'll be PLENTY left protruding with the ring off --- 2 - 3" probably

pix below off my VA-r when I broke it ... snapped the bolts with a bit of over-exuberance (and a 'kin huge rock) in June 16 :cry:
WP_20160618_14_34_17_Pro.jpg WP_20160618_14_39_14_Pro.jpg WP_20160618_14_44_21_Pro.jpg WP_20160618_14_45_24_Pro.jpgWP_20160618_14_46_21_Pro.jpg
was a bit of a dull bas***d moment ... and I'd forgotten to / not full welded some of the plates, when I'd made up the drive plate originally in its previous life as a bar bender ... didn't need it then :rolleyes:
WP_20160608_18_39_26_Pro.jpg WP_20160608_20_24_52_Pro.jpg WP_20160609_13_08_00_Pro.jpg
hasn't done it since it got rebuilt :giggle:
 
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M

Mea38

Member
I’m removing the upper from the ring, once done the plan is to completely move the upper and undercarriage away from each other and then remove ring from undercarriage with plenty of room. The slew drive problem is acces to get enough leverage. There isn’t much room in there
 
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