V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
@Grahams
GOOD 6 TON GEARMATIC 11E OR 25-11-10-11-00 HYDRAULIC WINCH LOW HOURS UNIMOG ETC | eBay
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between me and John (Robotplant) .. in Builth Wells ... sadly not joined here - yet !!
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
also got a bigger one Gra ... 
UNUSED 10 TON GEARMATIC 22 HYDRAULIC WINCH EX MILITARY FORESTRY LOGGING RECOVERY | eBay
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Grahams
Don't complain - suggest what's better
I think both may be a bit over spec. I was looking to upgrade my Norcar as a new model of my current one had become available second hand with 500mm extra reach, 300kg extra lift and two way hydraulics on the rear, but it doesn’t look like it will happen. I had planned to replace part of the counterweight with a permanently fitted winch, more like this one HYDRAULIC WINCH 20000 lb WINCHMAX ORIGINAL ORANGE WINCH + DYNEEMA ~ WINCH ONLY. Mine only has one way on the rear, so would need to have it as an attachment on the front, which whilst handy wouldn’t be as good.
S
Smiffy
Well-known member
Could you not put a simple tank return in and a spool valve on the winch
Grahams
Don't complain - suggest what's better
Would that allow me to power in and power out?
S
Smiffy
Well-known member
Yes
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
or ..... put a single acting cetop3 between the service and the winch and change direction at the flick of a switch ....
Grahams
Don't complain - suggest what's better
Okay, I’ll look into it.
S
Smiffy
Well-known member
I don't know if I'm correct in this assumption but I think the rear service on most these machines is a single line for tipping a trailer so with cetop would still need a return line installed
I think seeing as its a winch the best option would be a 3 position remote cetop using the existing line as feed and installing a return to tank if it doesn't already exist
Grahams
Don't complain - suggest what's better
It has two lines, but only single direction flow. As you say mainly for a tipping trailer with gravity down. The newer ones have a two way auxiliary on the rear. The front has three lines although I only use two for the 4 in 1.
S
Smiffy
Well-known member
Makes it even easier than I thought then either put a cetop in as druid suggests which would allow you to control it from the seat or even remote control or a cheap simple two way lever valve on top of the winch at the rear
Grahams
Don't complain - suggest what's better
So one of these plumbed into the rear system should control it either way. Just need to find out how you power it up. Front is holding a button on the joystick the moving the joystick forward and back to open and close, but no idea how back works yet.
www.flowfitonline.com
1 Bank, 3/4” BSP, 80 L/min Log Splitter Auto Kick Out, Hydraulic Monoblock Valve | Log Splitter Valves | Flowfit
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S
Smiffy
Well-known member
So one of these plumbed into the rear system should control it either way. Just need to find out how you power it up. Front is holding a button on the joystick the moving the joystick forward and back to open and close, but no idea how back works yet.
1 Bank, 3/4” BSP, 80 L/min Log Splitter Auto Kick Out, Hydraulic Monoblock Valve | Log Splitter Valves | Flowfit
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Something like that you will have to wait for druid or someone to check the exact specs as I have always been bought the components so dont have much experience of the numbers and the centred stuff just sticking it together
Auto knock out would be good though as you will be able to leave it spooling in and will just cut out when fully retracted
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I did wonder, after I'd posted.. and if that were the case you'd be spot on .... but looks like it has two lines P & T so a single'd work fine .... can't get Gra's link to open for me to look at his option
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
auto kick out might not be a good bet, as it will knock out under load and as it would be on the winch in side, it'd unload at inconvenient moments perhaps and not necessarily when fully spooled in, as there'd be little or no load on the motor ... be better off with full manual control really
as for plumbing ... I'd say all ports closed at centre to avoid any load pulling the line out/drift, if using a three way system ... two way'd only have the one option - A or B
S
Smiffy
Well-known member
auto kick out might not be a good bet, as it will knock out under load and as it would be on the winch in side, it'd unload at inconvenient moments perhaps and not necessarily when fully spooled in, as there'd be little or no load on the motor ... be better off with full manual control really
as for plumbing ... I'd say all ports closed at centre to avoid any load pulling the line out/drift, if using a three way system ... two way'd only have the one option - A or B
Have to check the specs on individual components but the last one I used the auto kick out was an extra position so you would hold the lever when pulling for obvious safety reasons then when finished just knock into the next position to re wind the cable once your finished
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
the auto kick out relies on dead ended pressure though and you'd not want to load your winch like that
S
Smiffy
Well-known member
the auto kick out relies on dead ended pressure though and you'd not want to load your winch like that
It depends if it's adjustable some on tractors are so you can program it to the individual job so you can tip a 20 tonne trailer using it all the way down to markers on seed drills
You definitely wouldn't want it set high enough that it could be latched when actually winching as could get dangerous some are quite stiff to pull out of latched mode
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