Pissing about with only half a clue on the shed site.

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bobthebuilder

Well-known member
Need to duct it as yard surface will going down before cables coming in. So want a duct that will be easy to draw through. Think I will go for the 110mm twinwall ducting (which looks identical to twinwall drainage?) And use some premade bends. I always duct my water anyway in 63mm blue so will use that and keep it seperate.
We have reams of appropriate warning tapes
View attachment 70932
westrn power always wanted the smooth bore stuff
 
Pedrod355

Pedrod355

Well-known member
SSE would only let us duct hydro cable across rd crossing, Sure the reason was due to potential heat build up in duct? Could be wrong at reason but either way had to lay cable in sand with electrical warning tile tape
 
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DaveDCB

Well-known member
ESB's often will only run cable in there specified Ducts. Reason being if there is a fault they can identify and differentiate from private ducts.
Found this out the hardway, got correct spec duct but it wasn’t branded and dated with SP energy, they refused to pull the cable so had to redig and buy duct from them 200meters later! I lost my head with them but they’d got me by the balls!
Lesson learnt - buy the duct direct from them!
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Optimum size conduit for 25mm armoured ? Think it’s about 26mm OD. I’d be happy pulling 25mm MDPE through 63mm….
make sure you have someone helping shove it through as well, so only pulling dead weight of cable in the duct, minus push force (y)
I put a length of 25mm x 3 core SWA, plus a 25MDPE, a 2 core solid phone cable and a 1.5 mm x 7 core all up a 63m duct a good 50 m, without too much drama -- pushed the MDP up with a small ball taped to the end to give it a glide surface, the SWA went up with a push/pull and the other two got drawn through :giggle:
westrn power always wanted the smooth bore stuff
having the draw sock will help dramatically, if not smooth bore, as there is no square end to foul on corrugations
 
JerryRtilt

JerryRtilt

Well-known member
On the subject of ducts, has anyone ever found a duct that is acceptable to SGN or other Gas suppliers?
Has to be Yellow, perforated and smooth internally ?
I’ve never been able to find anything that complies and usually have to leave a open trench for them which is never convenient on a busy new build job
 
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Stroppymonkey

Well-known member
On the subject of ducts, has anyone ever found a duct that is acceptable to SGN or other Gas suppliers?
Has to be Yellow, perforated and smooth internally ?
I’ve never been able to find anything that complies and usually have to leave a open trench for them which is never convenient on a busy new build job
63mm yellow perforated ducting with magentic warning tape is what we use, but we only ever work with LPG suppliers so different RA I assume
 
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Monkeybusiness

Well-known member
Doesn’t perforated ducting fill with silt/sand? I stuck a bit of land-drain under my shed as a duct and it was a disaster!😂
 
JerryRtilt

JerryRtilt

Well-known member
Doesn’t perforated ducting fill with silt/sand? I stuck a bit of land-drain under my shed as a duct and it was a disaster!😂
Has to be perforated in case they have a leak apparently?
I’ve never been able to find a perforated duct that’s smooth internally
Had several jobs worths reject various ducts over the years, perforated sometimes works but they usually struggle to pull the pipe through as it catches on the internal ribs and they don’t have sense enough to tape something rounded into the end of the pipe 😡
 
pettsy

pettsy

Well-known member
On the subject of ducts, has anyone ever found a duct that is acceptable to SGN or other Gas suppliers?
Has to be Yellow, perforated and smooth internally ?
I’ve never been able to find anything that complies and usually have to leave a open trench for them which is never convenient on a busy new build job

Here is the Cadent spec, doesn’t mention smooth internally? I did a complete new install at my old house with 63mm yellow twinwall duct and never had any problems. I even left them a drawstring to make life easy!

 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Has to be perforated in case they have a leak apparently?
I’ve never been able to find a perforated duct that’s smooth internally
Had several jobs worths reject various ducts over the years, perforated sometimes works but they usually struggle to pull the pipe through as it catches on the internal ribs and they don’t have sense enough to tape something rounded into the end of the pipe 😡
are you talking LPG or natural gas ?
LPG sinks to the lowest point, being heavier than air and accumulates, filling the duct, whereas natural is lighter than air and'll 'float' out
 
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DaveDCB

Well-known member
Did you want a water tank still…?
IMG_4179.png
 
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Stroppymonkey

Well-known member
As part of this project, I shall need a door for the 'big' end of the machinery store/workshop. Currently frame has an opening of 15' x 15' approx. I have had quotes for insulated sectional overhead doors which seem like best options compared to traditional steel roller doors (I have plenty of them at work HQ) or Sliding doors. Cheapest quote for 15' x 14' insulated door with 3ph motor and manual chain was £3100+vat inc fitting. This one is for sale locally and includes the support posts / framework and is £400. I am very tempted to go for it, just trying to decide if I will get angry with a 10ft wide x 11ft high opening. Guess I can open up for a wider one if the future ever calls for it? I have fitted a couple roller doors for myself before - so dont imagine this can be much worse.


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Stroppymonkey

Well-known member
My 3 bits of advice, Do it once, do it right, it’s never big enough! You can almost apply that to everything in life 😉
That is the principle I have applied to the Frame and Roof, which has blown £55K of my original £50K budget.....leading me to having to make decisions and compromises to get it weatherproof (by end of 2026)
 
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