Petrol or electric chainsaw?

[V8Druid]

Never bought a new chain had it sharpened by a bloke local what's the score do they come sized for your bar are they easy to replace,

haven't bought a chain in a long time ---- since I bought one of Lidls' lil' leccy chainsaw grinders - brilliant thing for 20 odd quid ... but yes sized to suit ... sizing is a bit of a mystery to me though .. never had it explained and rarely use one .... but down to pitch/tooth size ???
who's gonna give us a masterclass in chain sizing ??

 

[Rob 210]

just tell them make model links etc,pay,chain arrives you replace.
Always carry 1 spare chain at least.
knocking down dead elms there can be al sorts hidden in them.Barbed wire,staples,nails and occasionally a horse shoe or plough shear.The last two usually are noticeable.
If you are unsure about fitting a new chain look on you tube,but if you are unable to fit or sharpen a chain may i suggest you invest in some trainig.
No offense meant

 

[V8Druid]

just tell them make model links etc,pay,chain arrives you replace.
Always carry 1 spare chain at least.
knocking down dead elms there can be al sorts hidden in them.Barbed wire,staples,nails and occasionally a horse shoe or plough shear.The last two usually are noticeable.
If you are unsure about fitting a new chain look on you tube,but if you are unable to fit or sharpen a chain may i suggest you invest in some trainig.
No offense meant

no prob.s sharpening / fitting / etc. ..... determining EXACTLY what it is can some times leave me scratching me head, but haven't failed to suss/source on the net yet , once the numbers are all punched in .... would just be nice to be 'au fait' with exactly what they all denote/relate to

 

[Russell]

I would like to try one of those chain grinders. The rat rail files don't last very long at all.

 

[V8Druid]

I would like to try one of those chain grinders. The rat rail files don't last very long at all.

absolutely brilliant thing .... like having a new chain every time you use it and so much better/more accurate than a file .... quick flash on the edges and job done ..... worth every penny and'll outlast you

 

[Stubota86]

Any Stihl dealer has to work on any warranty repairs, no matter where the machine was bought from. Not sure about Makita, but the one time I've needed it their service was UNBELIEVABLE. Impact wrench collected from my house and delivered with new motor the next day. I've still no idea how they managed it without a time machine.

The makita should be £150+VAT (£180) with no batteries. Start buying online- you're robbing yourself if you don't, especially stuck on that poxy island

As for the chain- Rotatech chains from Northern Arb Supplies. Will be under a fiver for that size bar, and they are genuinely decent chains, I use them up to 36". Start buying online!

I use Makita mostly and you can extend the warranty on most their stuff to 3 years for free I think

 

[craig]

no prob.s sharpening / fitting / etc. ..... determining EXACTLY what it is can some times leave me scratching me head, but haven't failed to suss/source on the net yet , once the numbers are all punched in .... would just be nice to be 'au fait' with exactly what they all denote/relate to

Sometimes marked on the bar

Or, measure the length centre to centre of three rivets then divide by 2 for the pitch, in imperial. Usually, 1/4"(.250),.325", 3/8(.375),or .404
And measure the gauge, often quoted in both metric and imperial, as in the picture, usually .050/1.3mm, .058/1.5mm, .063/1.6mm.
Then count the drive links on the old chain.
And the decide on the type of cutter you want, full chisel, semi chisel, etc
On the drive links the is sometimes a number stamped in, that with the chain make often on the side plate, that can id the chain type.

 

[GazCro]

Best advice with anything cordless regarding the big 3 or 4 brands is to buy whatever make you've already got. Their all pretty close performance wise but at least if you keep to one battery platform you always have plenty to take with you. I got the makita 2x18v chainsaw on a deal last year for £100 + vat body only. Does the job for taking a few branches off here and there to save breaking mirrors. Handy for shuttering steps in founds etc.

 

[Russell]

I think the petrol saw is fixed. I replaced the fuel hose but it still died out once it got hot but the new crankshaft seals seamed to do the trick
Some of those Chinese parts are really bad. The plug cap didn't clip on to the top of the plug and I ended up using my old carb again because the Chinese one wouldn't start suddenly.

 

[Gecko]

That sounds like progress!
For interest, did the crank bearings feel sloppy?
I don't know how worn the seals need to be to cause problems, but I'd assume it's much the same as the slop of worn bearings.

 

[Smiffy]

This website may be of interest to some on here
They are aftermarket parts for Stihl and husqvarna parts
But on top of that they sell complete rebuild kits for the saws
Which is in actual fact every single part of the saw and if you choose can be assembled into a whole saw
I know someone who has had one for a while and is very impressed with it he has the ms066 kit and you honestly would really struggle to tell it's not real and as it's a copy of the older saw it seems better quality in places than the genuine newer model stihls

Complete Chain Saw Kit | Stihl Chainsaw Kit | Husqvarna Chainsaw Kits

We have complete chainsaw kits for Stihl MS660, MS440, MS380,MS361, MS360. With fast shipping and wholesale prices.

m.huztl.net

 

[Russell]

I couldn't feel any slop in the flywheel side but forgot to check the drive side to be honest, I suppose that's probably the one that would wear.

 

[Smiffy]

I couldn't feel any slop in the flywheel side but forgot to check the drive side to be honest, I suppose that's probably the one that would wear.

It depends how tight you run the chain
Overdoing the chain tension often leads to premature bearing failure
Don't know if this would be more prevelant on smaller or bigger saws

 

[V8Druid]

This website may be of interest to some on here
They are aftermarket parts for Stihl and husqvarna parts
But on top of that they sell complete rebuild kits for the saws
Which is in actual fact every single part of the saw and if you choose can be assembled into a whole saw
I know someone who has had one for a while and is very impressed with it he has the ms066 kit and you honestly would really struggle to tell it's not real and as it's a copy of the older saw it seems better quality in places than the genuine newer model stihls

Complete Chain Saw Kit | Stihl Chainsaw Kit | Husqvarna Chainsaw Kits

We have complete chainsaw kits for Stihl MS660, MS440, MS380,MS361, MS360. With fast shipping and wholesale prices.

m.huztl.net

did we ever start a useful links thread for stuff like this .... I know it was mooted ... links like these need copying into a reference thread for future easy retrieval

 

[DaveDCB]

Husky 555 - job done!

 

[Gecko]

Overdoing the chain tension often leads to premature bearing failure

The chain should never be that tight while running.
The chain will go slack as it warms up, often needing readjustment. Forgetting to slacken it off when you've finished may result in the chain being stretched as it cools (also it'll be very tight next)

 

[doobin]

S

The chain should never be that tight while running.
The chain will go slack as it warms up, often needing readjustment. Forgetting to slacken it off when you've finished may result in the chain being stretched as it cools (also it'll be very tight next)

Only when new. Once run in, the only thing that will stretch a chain that much is abuse- lack of oil or forcing it to cut blunt will heat it up enough to make it expand and go loose. Badly worn sprockets also generate a surprising amount of heat. In normal work with normal quality bars and chains, you can put them away straight after use and they will be ready to use next time you need them.

 

[Gecko]

That's not my experience, but it probably depends how the saw is being used.
I use tungsten carbide chains on the big saws and I can bury a 20" bar into hardwood.
I get one cut before the chain needs readjusting, then it's good for the rest of the tank.
Failing to slacken it off gives you something you can play notes on.

 

[Smiffy]

The chain should never be that tight while running.
The chain will go slack as it warms up, often needing readjustment. Forgetting to slacken it off when you've finished may result in the chain being stretched as it cools (also it'll be very tight next)

It's surprising how little extra tension it requires to damage bearings some people don't even realise they are doing it
Also sometimes it's preference I know hand cutters that would rather run a tighter chain I'm the one knowledge that they will have to do crank bearings on a regular basis
Also I have never experienced chains stretching in use after the initial wear in period as you describe
I've never used carbide chains always full chisel Oregon but after the initial adjustment for the first stretch that's it until the chain is changed

 

[Monkeybusiness]

That's not my experience, but it probably depends how the saw is being used.
I use tungsten carbide chains on the big saws and I can bury a 20" bar into hardwood.
I get one cut before the chain needs readjusting, then it's good for the rest of the tank.
Failing to slacken it off gives you something you can play notes on.

I’d imagine if you are using tc chain you are doing a lot of cutting in contaminated material. It’s hard to get tc chain properly sharp, and whilst it will keep cutting longer than regular chain it will never cut as efficiently. Because it is relatively blunt you tend to have to force the cut, which in turn makes it run very hot, and saws struggle to keep it effectively lubed. That’s why you are experiencing extreme chain stretch that ends up with tightness once cool - it should never be a problem with properly tensioned sharp chain running in clean timber (irrespective of bar length etc).