Petrol or electric chainsaw?

[Mintsauce]

At double the cost of petrol I wouldn’t bother unless you are concerned about emissions. Yes, it doesn’t break down like petrol under long term storage- but just drain tank and run dry if you are going to store it for years!

Clean fuel is clean fuel. Aspen is no cleaner than petrol in the sense of things that block carbs. Apparently though the exhaust is less harmful to breathe. Don’t breath the exhaust would be my advice...

if you're not using the saw alot then it doesn't add up to that much money. I understand if you're dogging it every day but if not then there is a good case for using synthetic. That's unless you're tight with the money

 

[doobin]

if you're not using the saw alot then it doesn't add up to that much money. I understand if you're dogging it every day but if not then there is a good case for using synthetic. That's unless you're tight with the money

Synthetic has nothing to do with the fuel, synthetic refers to the oil. I use the stihl hp basic red- I’ve used it in pro saws and strimmers for ten plus years with no issues. The reason I only use that is simple- it’s easy to tell when it’s mixed, compared to the green oils.

The only reason to use aspen is because the exhaust fumes are less harmful. If I was only hedge cutting, day in day out, I’d use it.

 

[Smiffy]

Synthetic has nothing to do with the fuel, synthetic refers to the oil. I use the stihl hp basic red- I’ve used it in pro saws and strimmers for ten plus years with no issues. The reason I only use that is simple- it’s easy to tell when it’s mixed, compared to the green oils.

The only reason to use aspen is because the exhaust fumes are less harmful. If I was only hedge cutting, day in day out, I’d use it.

It also supposedly helps to increase the life of plastic and rubber fueling components
I always debate using it as my saw gets used so infrequently that I think the saw will look like new when I have to start rebuilding the dual system
If Aspen cures this it may be worth it

 

[Bucket on wheels]

 

[Jimoz]

Why has he took the guard off the 24" grinder tut tut

 

[Mintsauce]

Sausages for breakfast anyone?

 

[Monkeybusiness]

Synthetic has nothing to do with the fuel, synthetic refers to the oil. I use the stihl hp basic red- I’ve used it in pro saws and strimmers for ten plus years with no issues. The reason I only use that is simple- it’s easy to tell when it’s mixed, compared to the green oils.

The only reason to use aspen is because the exhaust fumes are less harmful. If I was only hedge cutting, day in day out, I’d use it.

Stihl red oil is great, but their 4-mix engines don’t seem to like it. We only use the green stuff now for that reason, but never ever had issues with the red oil in any ‘normal’ 2 stroke engines.

 

[V8Druid]

I take it you know about setting the high screw correctly? Turn it so it revs it’s nuts off- it’s now too lean. Turn it back a touch so you can hear it burbling slightly at full revs. Called ‘fourstroking’- on the tip of running rich but not quite, a good safe top end.

aye ..... but with a blocked air filter it will run rich as hell and flood usually,, often resulting in a saturated air filter and severe 4 stroking .... with that lil' filter in the fuel system blocked it runs progressively leaner, until it won't run at all

 

[V8Druid]

Is the tank plastic? Is it degrading/breaking down? Maybe worth trying a new tank?

the blockage material is finer than talc James ... and has got to be getting into the fuel system somewhere ... might possibly be the tank ?? me strimmer is fuel-ed from the same can and gives no issues
this was discussed, at length, on the old CEF, ages ago ..... only thing I've not changed is the tank and the pressure/vac pipe from the crankcase .... so you may have summat there

 

[V8Druid]

View attachment 7953

he's bloody good if he can use that one handed

 

[Russell]

Well it's buggerd. Different plug and it's the same, dies as soon as it warm up and then goes weak and dies.

 

[doobin]

That's most likely because it's a fuel issue. Electrical issues are usually run or no run, not intermittant. You can test a plug by removing it, connecting the cap again and holding it against the engine to earth it. Then pull it over. If it sparks quickly and regularly and the tip doesn't look too worn then the plug is usually fine. I've known exceptions when a plug worked fine as above but didn't fire inside the piston under pressure, but this is rare. Anyway, like I said, problems like yours that develope or get pregressively worse are rarely electrical.

If you'd just put a £15 Chinese carb on it like I said earlier, you'd probably have it running by now. I'd suggest that should be your next move.

Keep posting on here if you need help good news is that bits are cheap and you can learn a lot whilst playing.

 

[doobin]

Before you go any further, run a 'drop test' Hold it up by the starter cord and see how long it takes to drop to the floor. It's a rudimental test of compression. If it drops slowly in stages, it's probably OK. If it sort of slides down fairly quickly, then the piston/rings could be worn. You can check for this by removing the exhaust and turning the engine over until you can see the barrel through the exhaust port- look for scoring.

 

[doobin]

It also supposedly helps to increase the life of plastic and rubber fueling components
I always debate using it as my saw gets used so infrequently that I think the saw will look like new when I have to start rebuilding the dual system
If Aspen cures this it may be worth it

There is something here- petrol will degrade rubber pipes, and cause them to swell. Usually they still give years of service. If you change to running on Aspen, these pipes can shrink and cause air leaks in the fuel system.

So Aspen does technically 'extend the life of fuel components', but it's unlikely you'd notice as petrol filled componenets don't fail that quick. It will however cause ones run in petrol beforehand to fail prematurely.

If you run your saw only very rarely, and have rebuilt the fuel system, it might be the way forward for you. I'm still too tight, personally

 

[Russell]

I dunno about fancy fuel, I saw a gallon of ready mixed stuff for £20 at the Kubota dealer and thought bugger that. I see where your going with the carb but I'm not sure. It starts, runs, ticks over, revs out perfectly until the second cut then dies. Im thinking coil or plug cap myself. I have heard they can break down as they warm up. No immanent jobs for the saw at moment so I'll have a go at it. The compression seams ok to me and it has the same power it's always had.

 

[V8Druid]

I dunno about fancy fuel, I saw a gallon of ready mixed stuff for £20 at the Kubota dealer and thought bugger that. I see where your going with the carb but I'm not sure. It starts, runs, ticks over, revs out perfectly until the second cut then dies. Im thinking coil or plug cap myself. I have heard they can break down as they warm up. No immanent jobs for the saw at moment so I'll have a go at it. The compression seams ok to me and it has the same power it's always had.

they're 'avin' a ****ing laugh ..... i'm gonna go mix some up tomorrow and start ebaying it

 

[Gecko]

Between 'running badly' and 'running ok for the first cut', did you top up the fuel?
I'm thinking the fuel hose may have a split and it's sucking in air depending how you hold the saw

 

[doobin]

Electric saw would be preferred for lasting impact on cutting.

What do you want to sell us then sugartits?

 

[V8Druid]

What do you want to sell us then sugartits?

he's toast Doob ... I flagged him with Ross this morning ..... he's been popping up on a few today

 

[Russell]

Finally got round to fitting the new carb and coil. It's still not right, when you run it flat out the revs go up and down. It also bogs a lot and doesn't want to rev up cleanly. I pulled the fuel filter off but It's no better. Every job I do lately I seam to have to buy a new £200 tool and every other quote I do there is some idiot that will do it for nothing