Kinshofer tr 025

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Maxus

Well-known member
I can't understand why they routed the hitch lines through the h link, I thought it would be neater and there be less fouling if the lines were routed this way: 20260720_165012.jpg

Very satisfying job organising hydraulic lines - if I've done something daft, tell me!
 
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V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
only risk is a fully crowded bucket full of rough rocks/stone - as Aiden says .. looks good and way better than the original
 
Will_c

Will_c

Well-known member
In my small walker the joystick buttons were all in use, so stuck a row of extra buttons to the side (see picture). Tried momentary buttons, but ended up with on/off. Just encased in heat shrink (not shrunken over the actual buttons) for protection and wire run down the outside and into the boot. Wasn't the best looking, but worked well.
View attachment 83135
Currently working on something similar to add an extra button to the joystick without making any modifications to the original controls.
There's not much point having to take your hand off the joystick every time you want to switch between the tilt and gripper functions, so mounting a selector on the side console isn't really an option.

I have 3D-printed test bracket that clamps around the 38 × 3 mm square section on the underside of the joystick. It uses a small microswitch that's actuated by a simple lever with a spring to return it position, allowing you to switch functions while still operating the joystick.

It mounts in a position that's easy to reach but doesn't seem to interfere with normal machine operation, making it an easy solution with no permanent modifications as it can just be bolted on.
IMG_8408.jpeg


IMG_8404.jpeg
 
Will_c

Will_c

Well-known member
Would it be easier to just change the joystick to one with extra buttons
New joysticks with additional buttons are very expensive, so this is a low-cost solution for the time being. It cost around £5 for the microswitch, plus a little bit of time to make the housing.

I've since upgraded the original 3D-printed bracket to an aluminium version. It's probably a bit overkill, but it works really well and has completely eliminated the flex in the lever.Just need to wire it in now.
IMG_8409.jpeg
IMG_8411.jpeg
 
M

Monkeybusiness

Well-known member
New joysticks with additional buttons are very expensive, so this is a low-cost solution for the time being. It cost around £5 for the microswitch, plus a little bit of time to make the housing.

I've since upgraded the original 3D-printed bracket to an aluminium version. It's probably a bit overkill, but it works really well and has completely eliminated the flex in the lever.Just need to wire it in now.
View attachment 83588View attachment 83589
Do you not have a spare ‘trigger’ button on the other joystick (or if not at least a blanking plug where you could retro-fit one)?
Amazing looking creation though, good skills!
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
for the cost of producing that switch mount you could probably have bought a pair of new stick tops .. nice job, but if your time was costed:rolleyes:
plenty of all sorts of stick tops on ebay
 
Will_c

Will_c

Well-known member
for the cost of producing that switch mount you could probably have bought a pair of new stick tops .. nice job, but if your time was costed:rolleyes:
plenty of all sorts of stick tops on ebay
You're probably right! . Not the most commercially viable solution, but it was a good excuse to practise machining tabbed parts to reduce setups, and it leaves the original joystick unmodified
 
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