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Currently working on something similar to add an extra button to the joystick without making any modifications to the original controls.In my small walker the joystick buttons were all in use, so stuck a row of extra buttons to the side (see picture). Tried momentary buttons, but ended up with on/off. Just encased in heat shrink (not shrunken over the actual buttons) for protection and wire run down the outside and into the boot. Wasn't the best looking, but worked well.
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New joysticks with additional buttons are very expensive, so this is a low-cost solution for the time being. It cost around £5 for the microswitch, plus a little bit of time to make the housing.Would it be easier to just change the joystick to one with extra buttons
Do you not have a spare ‘trigger’ button on the other joystick (or if not at least a blanking plug where you could retro-fit one)?New joysticks with additional buttons are very expensive, so this is a low-cost solution for the time being. It cost around £5 for the microswitch, plus a little bit of time to make the housing.
I've since upgraded the original 3D-printed bracket to an aluminium version. It's probably a bit overkill, but it works really well and has completely eliminated the flex in the lever.Just need to wire it in now.
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There is another button on the left joystick but already intending on using this for another function.Do you not have a spare ‘trigger’ button on the other joystick (or if not at least a blanking plug where you could retro-fit one)?
Amazing looking creation though, good skills!
You're probably right! . Not the most commercially viable solution, but it was a good excuse to practise machining tabbed parts to reduce setups, and it leaves the original joystick unmodifiedfor the cost of producing that switch mount you could probably have bought a pair of new stick tops .. nice job, but if your time was costed
plenty of all sorts of stick tops on ebay
I remember your response when someone suggested "sticking" a button onto your joystick when you got your first oneDo you not have a spare ‘trigger’ button on the other joystick (or if not at least a blanking plug where you could retro-fit one)?
Amazing looking creation though, good skills!
Can we all stop and appreciate the hypocrisy of thisfor the cost of producing that switch mount you could probably have bought a pair of new stick tops .. nice job, but if your time was costed
plenty of all sorts of stick tops on ebay
but I'm retired Rory and what I do is a hobby/time filler between all the other tish I have to do, which I 'enjoy' and keeps my hand in and my mind activeCan we all stop and appreciate the hypocrisy of this![]()
some one else who has used an FLT rotator set up to create with .. 300 x 200 x 50 pins .. but his has an external drive to the ring gear hence the guarding to the motor...www.facebook.com
I had a straight rake like picture below which saved a lot of weight when I didn't want to riddle stuff with a rake bucket. For grading it was perfect.The rake worked well, albeit bloody heavy! It's got to be iro 175kg. It was more or less lifting a track at full reach over the side! Grading accurately in this circumstance was difficult, the machine is a bit 'noddy' when reaching and operating on a slope with so much weight on.
The gripper is great, but it does mean the intermecato grab and auger is going to be tricky to run as gripper is taking up the aux on the tilt rotator. The pipes that run the gripper can be disconnected to run another attachment, but they are tiny... I don't know if it's feasible to use these connections.
I had a straight rake like picture below which saved a lot of weight when I didn't want to riddle stuff with a rake bucket. For grading it was perfect.
The pipes through my engcon were too small to run the attachments I wanted underneath so had a diverter plumbed into the rotate side of the main circuit with a switch on the joystick to swap back and forward as required. Only got 180 degree rotation either way on the attachment because of the pipes, but solved the problem.
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Lovely looking setup ,niceGot to put the EZ26 and TR025 through its paces this week. I'm rubbish with photos, but I've got a few here I took.
Tilt and rotate is a game changer, I've really enjoyed getting to grips with it. 30° tilt is limiting, but it's OK - 50° on the bigger models must be heaven.
I decided to take out the roller on the joystick and flip it round to get the tilt operating such that tilting left is achieved by tilting the rocker switch left - my head could get to grips with it the other way round!
The rake worked well, albeit bloody heavy! It's got to be iro 175kg. It was more or less lifting a track at full reach over the side! Grading accurately in this circumstance was difficult, the machine is a bit 'noddy' when reaching and operating on a slope with so much weight on.
The 1m scandi bucket thankfully is much lighter, and the bucket full of gravel at full reach over the side was not tipping the machine, but I was on level ground, and any more weight it would be.
The EZ26 has really clever hydraulics, I can be using several functions and the flow is shared nice and evenly, albeit slower. It's very fast, smooth and intuitive running a tiltrotator.
Zero tail is definitely a big compromise, and I'd not want anything heavier on the end, that being said I think it handles it well enough for what I'm doing. If you were consistently handling large boulders or tree trunks then maybe it would too much of a compromise - especially if not typically working in confined spaces.
The gripper is great, but it does mean the intermecato grab and auger is going to be tricky to run as gripper is taking up the aux on the tilt rotator. The pipes that run the gripper can be disconnected to run another attachment, but they are tiny... I don't know if it's feasible to use these connections.
I can't wait to the next job I have for it!