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LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
I know what it is, what I don't know is if they actually work given some idiot has put the wrong fluid through them. They've probably destroyed all the seals.
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L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
This is what I have ^
What i've done for now is disconnect the extra auxiliary valve thing that someone had plumbed in and put the pipework back to standard. They had used the pressure feed pipe from the skip spool to feed it and then looped it back to the steering.
So the steering is via this Orbitrol unit, this is the cover with the pipes hanging out of it:
Is that a valve top left? Is it the only one and does it pop open towards us like the inlet/exhaust valve on an engine?
What was left of it on the steering column:
Hopefully will have some new parts soon so can put it back together and see if it works.
Mogman
What man as done, man can do, what never has,maybe
on the orbitral you have above 
there are 4 pipes two go to the steering ram one goes back to tank and if you follow the forth pipe it will lead you to the priority valve that has three ports one connected to the forth pipe that goes to the steering one goes to the tipping spool and the third leads to the main hydraulic pump have a look at that 
there are 4 pipes two go to the steering ram one goes back to tank and if you follow the forth pipe it will lead you to the priority valve that has three ports one connected to the forth pipe that goes to the steering one goes to the tipping spool and the third leads to the main hydraulic pump have a look at that
L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
I don't think this is like that, it doesn't have a visible priority valve. The pressure feed goes from pump, to the tip valve block then to the orbitrol, then back to the tank. I'm guessing it just diverts inside this tipping spool as it comes out of the side, it isn't controlled by it. Maybe it has some priority valve inside it?on the orbitrol you have above
Anyhow as said, it's back now as it should be, over the next day or two will be back up and running to see if it's cured. I'm hoping what they'd done is made the dumper into a static pumping machine by disconnecting the steering hydraulics and making it do something else and losing the steering.
For any novice (like me) reading this afterwards:
I've been looking at ram seal kits and wonder how they come to the prices that they do, they're obscene! I just can't see the money in them when it's just a few plastic and rubber rings. I drove to my nearest specialist with the opened up ram and left it with them. Picked up two sets of seals the next day for £30 cash. If you're not VAT reg always take cash to these places, they go through so many seal kits and oil in a year it's not difficult to shift on a few bits n pieces out the back door for readies.
A tip on draining the hydraulic tank:
It takes forever! I thought it was done after 5 mins as the flow slowed right down to a trickle, left the container under it and went off for a few hours. Luckily i'd left a sizeable nearly empty 20L drum under it because when I came back it was half full and still dribbling out.
If you're doing this you need to give it at least 12hrs.
On mine there is a strainer/filter on the bolted on outlet inside the metal tank as well as the inline spin on filter.
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
the main outlet from the oil tank I had with the Deutz motor I had off Mog has a screw in strainer assembled into a 2"BSP barrel nipple would take forever to drain out through that, once the oil level gets down
Mogman
What man as done, man can do, what never has,maybe
There will be a valve in the side of the spool valve that needs cleaning
L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
Ok thanks, i'll bear it in mind if it doesn't workThere will be a valve in the side of the spool valve that needs cleaning
L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
Yeah that looks a bit cleaner than mine was
Oil drain is the usual plug in the bottom of the tank.
Bit of a minor setback today when I realised my skills weren't up to putting a ram back together. The piston groove has a rubber seal in the centre with a plastic spacer or two either side of it, I made sure all the bits, notches and grooves were in the right place, lubed it up.
Putting it in and the first spacer and rubber seal go in ok then it sticks. The bore has a taper to lead everything in so I give it a little tap and the last spacer breaks F*** f*** F*ckety f***!
Tried the other one a bit more carefully and everytime the last ring snags, pops out and won't go in. Scared I'm going to break another I gave up and took it all to a specialist. Hopefully pick up tomorrow. Like Dirty Harry said, 'mans gotta know his limitations'.
Pistons and rings have compressors to guide them in where I come from!
L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
All new bits and fluids fitted, fired it up as the sun was setting and we have power steering 
Plenty of other things to do and tidy up yet, but we're getting there.
Plenty of other things to do and tidy up yet, but we're getting there.
JD450A
Feral as Fk 🐾
On the basis of "money where mouth is" I've just brought one of these 
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LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
On the basis of "money where mouth is" I've just bought one of these
Thread!
L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
Sorry for lack of pics lately, i'm usually too blathered up to my elbows in filthy oil and grease from this thing to get my phone out.
Your forum gets good coverage on Google btw, when i'm searching for TT3000 stuff my own pics and thread keeps popping up now!
I've been around various joints and linkages freeing them off, cleaning them up, re-greasing and re-setting to take up all the slack and wear. It feels a bit less like a puppet on a string to use now.
Done all the filters. The fuel filter bowl was frighteningly full of God knows what, just utter filth. It's possible it's been overloaded and some has got by into the injectors causing the black smoke. It's also possible this smoke is caused by the governor linkage needing setting. That's a job and a half as it lives within the engine somewhere meaning covers have to come off and a quite technical procedure followed. That'll be for another day when i've got a workshop built and it can be tackled in a relaxed manner over Winter perhaps. I can only go so far at the moment due to lack of workshop, budget and time which is why some jobs are not done as well as they could be. They're often cut short with it raining or just getting too dark to work.
I think i'll have a go at setting the tappets though as that looks easy enough and i'm pretty sure they will not have been done since the engine was made in 1986.
The steering rams had a few marks on them which would either scratch the new seals or allow oil passed them. New ones would be great and the proper way to do it, but the budget didn't stretch that far on this old machine. I took out a very small file and an engraver and carefully ground out any rusty or damaged metal after cleaning it with thinners. Once cleaned up it was washed again and some JB weld put in. Prep is vital here. I very carefully sanded it down flush and it seems to have done the job - leak free steering rams.
Onto changing the transmission oils. Front and rear axles and transfer box were like dark chocolate. Gearbox was surprisingly like white chocolate!
Drained it off:
I'm pretty sure rain water has run down the gearlever, under the gaiter, into the gearbox and mixed with the oil. Mmmm, lovely.
What has happened is the rubbery plastic plastic gaiter shroud cover thingy has gone hard over the years, some rust has formed under it and pushed it away from the gearstick which passes through it. Water has then been able to run down, pass through and into the 'box. I put some gasket sealant around the collar of the gaiter to stop this from happening again for now.
I had to refill and flush it several times, the old hydraulic oil was good for this. What made it harder was stupidly the drain plug is not right at the bottom.
Access to the skip ram is much better now the hydraulics are back working and I can lift the skip, haven't had another go at it freeing the ram off yet though. I want to try a bottle jack on it next.
Will send the brake master cylinder off for re-sleeve and repair soon. I think we can give this thing some kind of brakes, but they won't ever be great unless the axles are taken off and whatever braking mechanism is in there is taken apart and has new seals put in it and that is a massive job.
Will bolt some brake pads onto the handbrake caliper so that works. Note: It's very easy to drive this thing around when you've forgotten to release the handbrake! A strong smell of burning and smoke billowing out from between your legs is usually the reminder.
I've recently realised this thing doesn't have any battery charging equipment which is annoying. Not sure if it ever came with one or it's been taken off. I think it would have been a generator (?) in the bellhousing, but there are no wires or evidence of any so maybe not.
Went around all the grease points, annoyingly this ended up with grease being pumped out around the nipple connection on a couple. I'm not sure why. Does this mean it's blocked or faulty nipple?
I like history and it occurred to me yesterday that I would have been just leaving school when this machine was new and lumbering around a building site somewhere. Shame it can't talk, it would have some tales to tell i'm sure.
Your forum gets good coverage on Google btw, when i'm searching for TT3000 stuff my own pics and thread keeps popping up now!
I've been around various joints and linkages freeing them off, cleaning them up, re-greasing and re-setting to take up all the slack and wear. It feels a bit less like a puppet on a string to use now.
Done all the filters. The fuel filter bowl was frighteningly full of God knows what, just utter filth. It's possible it's been overloaded and some has got by into the injectors causing the black smoke. It's also possible this smoke is caused by the governor linkage needing setting. That's a job and a half as it lives within the engine somewhere meaning covers have to come off and a quite technical procedure followed. That'll be for another day when i've got a workshop built and it can be tackled in a relaxed manner over Winter perhaps. I can only go so far at the moment due to lack of workshop, budget and time which is why some jobs are not done as well as they could be. They're often cut short with it raining or just getting too dark to work.
I think i'll have a go at setting the tappets though as that looks easy enough and i'm pretty sure they will not have been done since the engine was made in 1986.
The steering rams had a few marks on them which would either scratch the new seals or allow oil passed them. New ones would be great and the proper way to do it, but the budget didn't stretch that far on this old machine. I took out a very small file and an engraver and carefully ground out any rusty or damaged metal after cleaning it with thinners. Once cleaned up it was washed again and some JB weld put in. Prep is vital here. I very carefully sanded it down flush and it seems to have done the job - leak free steering rams.
Onto changing the transmission oils. Front and rear axles and transfer box were like dark chocolate. Gearbox was surprisingly like white chocolate!
Drained it off:
I'm pretty sure rain water has run down the gearlever, under the gaiter, into the gearbox and mixed with the oil. Mmmm, lovely.
What has happened is the rubbery plastic plastic gaiter shroud cover thingy has gone hard over the years, some rust has formed under it and pushed it away from the gearstick which passes through it. Water has then been able to run down, pass through and into the 'box. I put some gasket sealant around the collar of the gaiter to stop this from happening again for now.
I had to refill and flush it several times, the old hydraulic oil was good for this. What made it harder was stupidly the drain plug is not right at the bottom.
Access to the skip ram is much better now the hydraulics are back working and I can lift the skip, haven't had another go at it freeing the ram off yet though. I want to try a bottle jack on it next.
Will send the brake master cylinder off for re-sleeve and repair soon. I think we can give this thing some kind of brakes, but they won't ever be great unless the axles are taken off and whatever braking mechanism is in there is taken apart and has new seals put in it and that is a massive job.
Will bolt some brake pads onto the handbrake caliper so that works. Note: It's very easy to drive this thing around when you've forgotten to release the handbrake! A strong smell of burning and smoke billowing out from between your legs is usually the reminder.
I've recently realised this thing doesn't have any battery charging equipment which is annoying. Not sure if it ever came with one or it's been taken off. I think it would have been a generator (?) in the bellhousing, but there are no wires or evidence of any so maybe not.
Went around all the grease points, annoyingly this ended up with grease being pumped out around the nipple connection on a couple. I'm not sure why. Does this mean it's blocked or faulty nipple?
I like history and it occurred to me yesterday that I would have been just leaving school when this machine was new and lumbering around a building site somewhere. Shame it can't talk, it would have some tales to tell i'm sure.
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V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I like carb/brake cleaner for a final wash off after thinners ....... sure it's not got a dynastart?
JD450A
Feral as Fk 🐾
The listers/Lister Petters tend to have a setup running off the flywheel with no alternator/belts.
Shovelhands
Well-known member
Have you got any good pics of the engine?
Mick-the-fitter
It’s what I do!
There were some later ones with alternator and belt added!
L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
To ID the charging system?
The manual I have says it's either belt driven like a car or on the flywheel, I don't think this has either.
It only has two wires going from the battery to the starter, no more. It's a bloody big starter though so i'm thinking V8 has it and it's a Dynastart.
If It's a Dynastart it's a bit ill, it sticks on start up and doesn't charge the battery either. More research, testing and work needed.....
In other news:
Bolted a car brake pad to the bare handbrake caliper and got that working so at least I can yank on that when the foot brakes don't work.
I set the tappet clearances too, whilst I was doing them I noticed the head has been off at some time. It's always been bloody noisy too, a really loud, harsh tapping/ticking noise. I'd just assumed that's the way an old LP engine sounds like and know manufacturers have worked hard to lessen diesel rattle over the years.
Tonight however I briefly investigated it a bit more closely. I put my boot over the exhaust and it didn't make any difference so it wasn't coming from there.
Put my ear near the top of the engine and it seemed to be coming from there. Diesel clatter?
Pulled the stop lever, time for dinner. Just as it was dying I let go of the lever, playing with it. As you know you can switch a diesel off and as it's nearly stopped turn it on and it'll start again. Just as it was firing up again I noticed a puff of smoke from the side of the engine.
I instantly knew what that was, blowing head gasket - or whatever these things have. I think it's more of a fire ring than a gasket being air cooled.
Yes sure enough it is, I can see soot and feel it blowing out the side there. As it was getting dark I could even see very small bits of the diesel burn showing like tiny electrical sparks from the joint.
More work. At least gasket sets aren't expensive
Shovelhands
Well-known member
To ID the charging system?
The manual I have says it's either belt driven like a car or on the flywheel, I don't think this has either.
It only has two wires going from the battery to the starter, no more. It's a bloody big starter though so i'm thinking V8 has it and it's a Dynastart.
If It's a Dynastart it's a bit ill, it sticks on start up and doesn't charge the battery either. More research, testing and work needed.....
In other news:
Bolted a car brake pad to the bare handbrake caliper and got that working so at least I can yank on that when the foot brakes don't work.
I set the tappet clearances too, whilst I was doing them I noticed the head has been off at some time. It's always been bloody noisy too, a really loud, harsh tapping/ticking noise. I'd just assumed that's the way an old LP engine sounds like and know manufacturers have worked hard to lessen diesel rattle over the years.
Tonight however I briefly investigated it a bit more closely. I put my boot over the exhaust and it didn't make any difference so it wasn't coming from there.
Put my ear near the top of the engine and it seemed to be coming from there. Diesel clatter?
Pulled the stop lever, time for dinner. Just as it was dying I let go of the lever, playing with it. As you know you can switch a diesel off and as it's nearly stopped turn it on and it'll start again. Just as it was firing up again I noticed a puff of smoke from the side of the engine.
I instantly knew what that was, blowing head gasket - or whatever these things have. I think it's more of a fire ring than a gasket being air cooled.
Yes sure enough it is, I can see soot and feel it blowing out the side there. As it was getting dark I could even see very small bits of the diesel burn showing like tiny electrical sparks from the joint.
More work. At least gasket sets aren't expensive
Yes I was hoping some good detailed pics could help with identifying the charging, but sounds like you are convinced it’s not there.
It must have more wires than the two from the battery? No ignition switch?
Mick-the-fitter
It’s what I do!
Yep it’s an old handle start engine with standard flywheel and ring gear, so starter and battery, ignition switch added, many like it as they were hard to handle start when worn!
L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
Yes it has the hole for the cranking handle and decompression levers. The starter and battery look like they were there from new though, or at least a long time as they look like factory items. The end casting houses the starter properly, it hasn't been added on.
I wonder if it's some kind of changeover engine? A halfway house between having no starter and a starter and alternator so just has a starter and battery?
I'll have to take this thing off and see what it is, see if it's a Dynastart. The manual I have is dated '88, but the engine plate is '86, this is perhaps why the manual is wrong in this respect when everything else looks the same.
I mean just two main thick cables, earth and + tve going from starter to battery. The only other wire is a thin one to the the ign switch on the steering column. I'll get some pics later, but if there was anything inside the bellhousing there are no holes or no wires going there now, unless there are some holes underneath where I can't see them.
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