Boiler problems

diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
really depends on the head - differential between the top of the level in the tank and the height at which the pump is sat -- might just be possible if they're close to the same level I 'spose
The boiler is probably 1 metre higher than oil level in tank
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Indeed , although @diggerjones said it’s sucking air I think ? He could only know this if it’s visible on clear flexible hose prior to oil pump.

Suggest it’s time for a specialist? Depends how the other occupants of property feel about lack of heating / hot water!
it's 'sucking air' 'cos it's incapable of creating a vacuum strong enough to suck the kero .... I'd try, as said filling from the bleed port or sucking the fluid up that clear line from the bleed port .... get some fluid into the pump body and it should prime .. the bleed will be on the pressure side of the pump ;)
 
S

Stroppymonkey

Well-known member
The boiler is probably 1 metre higher than oil level in tank
Try and suck it through to the non return valve which should be in the boiler then you need to bleed the pump . Will be a 4mm hex and likely labelled P. Dont accidentally adjust the pressure adjustment point or you will enter a world of pain.
Given you were having problems before , have you checked filters ?
 
S

Stroppymonkey

Well-known member
it's 'sucking air' 'cos it's incapable of creating a vacuum strong enough to suck the kero .... I'd try, as said filling from the bleed port or sucking the fluid up that clear line from the bleed port .... get some fluid into the pump body and it should prime .. the bleed will be on the pressure side of the pump ;)
It’s hard to suck through a gear pump …. Usually once you get fuel to the inlet and then then open pressure port you will get some action. Also can be awkward as boiler may only run for upto 12 seconds before locking out every time. There are a few tricks for getting pump to run for longer.
Bit that’s puzzling me is @diggerjones said he removed pump to change nozzle.. you shouldn’t need to do touch pump for a nozzle change ?
Also I’m thinking that there may be an underlying issue at play here.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Try and suck it through to the non return valve which should be in the boiler then you need to bleed the pump . Will be a 4mm hex and likely labelled P. Dont accidentally adjust the pressure adjustment point or you will enter a world of pain.
Given you were having problems before , have you checked filters ?
(y)(y)(y) .. unless he has a pressure gauge to connect to the test point :rolleyes:

surely the clear supply line is already above/beyond the NRV? (bear in mind I have never seen one of these) :rolleyes:

any chance of some pix Dyl - particularly that clear line
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
It’s hard to suck through a gear pump …. Usually once you get fuel to the inlet and then then open pressure port you will get some action. Also can be awkward as boiler may only run for upto 12 seconds before locking out every time. There are a few tricks for getting pump to run for longer.
Bit that’s puzzling me is @diggerjones said he removed pump to change nozzle.. you shouldn’t need to do touch pump for a nozzle change ?
Also I’m thinking that there may be an underlying issue at play here.
was my very first thought .. assume this is some sort of blown system - disconnect injector line and withdraw the nozzle tube/electrodes
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
It’s hard to suck through a gear pump …. Usually once you get fuel to the inlet and then then open pressure port you will get some action. Also can be awkward as boiler may only run for upto 12 seconds before locking out every time. There are a few tricks for getting pump to run for longer.
Bit that’s puzzling me is @diggerjones said he removed pump to change nozzle.. you shouldn’t need to do touch pump for a nozzle change ?
Also I’m thinking that there may be an underlying issue at play here.
(y)(y)

that's the biggest PITA of all ... got such a short window each time :(:(
 
diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
Try and suck it through to the non return valve which should be in the boiler then you need to bleed the pump . Will be a 4mm hex and likely labelled P. Dont accidentally adjust the pressure adjustment point or you will enter a world of pain.
Given you were having problems before , have you checked filters ?
Before when I was having issues with it locking out. I had to reset it outside on the pump and you could see the oil flowing well. No air
 
diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
was my very first thought .. assume this is some sort of blown system - disconnect injector line and withdraw the nozzle tube/electrodes
20241209_215835.jpg
 
diggerjones

diggerjones

Well-known member
It’s hard to suck through a gear pump …. Usually once you get fuel to the inlet and then then open pressure port you will get some action. Also can be awkward as boiler may only run for upto 12 seconds before locking out every time. There are a few tricks for getting pump to run for longer.
Bit that’s puzzling me is @diggerjones said he removed pump to change nozzle.. you shouldn’t need to do touch pump for a nozzle change ?
Also I’m thinking that there may be an underlying issue at play here.
I only removed the feed pipe to get it on the bench to clean it up a bit. If I hadn't took the pipe off it would be running now
 
M

Monkeybusiness

Well-known member
Could you disconnect the supply pipe from the tank end and force oil through with a funnel and long hose to get the pump bled?
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
ok.... with the line set up like that your getting a cascade effect in that feed line from a point higher than the pump .. guessing the other end of that clear hose is attached to the NRV ... could try taking the line off the pump end - filling it and pinch it off as close to the union as poss. and quickly reconnecting it - hopefully the full pipe would force any air left in the pump body out when it runs up enough to bleed it
 
Gecko

Gecko

Well-known member
If none of the other piping has been disturbed, I'd be checking both ends of the clear pipe in case it's cracked inside the ferrul and drawing air.

As a sanity check, is it worth filling the plastic pipe from the NRV end so you can see the pump drawing it through?
 
S

Steve

Well-known member
I have only speed read this thread & I am not a plumbist so don’t shoot me down but is it possible you had an oil feed issue before changing the nozzle. Have you got sh!t in the filter at the tank end as that would probably cause lockout and make it a b gger to bleed.
 
S

Stroppymonkey

Well-known member
I have only speed read this thread & I am not a plumbist so don’t shoot me down but is it possible you had an oil feed issue before changing the nozzle. Have you got sh!t in the filter at the tank end as that would probably cause lockout and make it a b gger to bleed.
I have queried this at least twice as well🤣.
Been working on oil boilers for 20+ years and lost count of the times I’ve been pratting about with burner faults and only checked the fuel supply /filters later and caused myself embarrassment.
Start at beginning. Establish clean flow of fuel.
@diggerjones is going to struggle to sort this without a suction pump and oil pump bleed manifold and 10-20bar pressure gauge and flue gas analyser.
A working knowledge of the combustion sequence would help. Could just be the pump solonoid or photo cell reading wrong
 
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