V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
's called getting old Rory and having yer HD over full .... as I've said before I reckon I have now forgotten more than I currently know
R
Rob65
Well-known member
Druid,'s called getting old Rory and having yer HD over full .... as I've said before I reckon I have now forgotten more than I currently know
There is a quote from Homer Simpson that rings very true.
It goes along the lines of “my head is full, so for every new thing that comes in to it something must go out of it”
L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
Well we aren't off to a great start today. First call to PES Plant reveals:
Workshop manual,
Steering and skip ram seal kits
Lockheed Master brake cylinder (or seal kit)
are all NLA as far as they are concerned.
Overhaul kits for 85M gearboxes (which I have) are available, the other type are not.
I have other leads to follow up on those so it's not over yet.
Does anyone know how to get the skip ram off? It looks like a simple through bolt with grease nipple (missing), but is not so simple afterall.
One side looks like this and you would expect to undo the nut and bash it through, but it's solid:
The other side however has started to come out by driving a steel wedge in.
The odd thing is the other threaded side is not moving. You would expect it to pull it through in one piece, but it isn't...
Workshop manual,
Steering and skip ram seal kits
Lockheed Master brake cylinder (or seal kit)
are all NLA as far as they are concerned.
Overhaul kits for 85M gearboxes (which I have) are available, the other type are not.
I have other leads to follow up on those so it's not over yet.
Does anyone know how to get the skip ram off? It looks like a simple through bolt with grease nipple (missing), but is not so simple afterall.
One side looks like this and you would expect to undo the nut and bash it through, but it's solid:
The other side however has started to come out by driving a steel wedge in.
The odd thing is the other threaded side is not moving. You would expect it to pull it through in one piece, but it isn't...
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
you've deformed the plate on the wedge side'd be my guess .. pin is solid in the rod end and other side .... new pin and be prepared to do whatever it takes to remove/destroy, what has to come out
looks like it will be a bitch
I'd cut the pin either side of the rod eye and outside the plates flush ... if it won't wack out with a drift, slit the bushes with a thin disc to release their hold, pin bits out, clean it all up, new pin and weld up the slits
JD450A
Feral as Fk 🐾
Seals any good Hydraulic firm will be able to get.
From memory you can swap the entire master cylinder for a modern variety, surprised PES hasn't suggested that
From memory you can swap the entire master cylinder for a modern variety, surprised PES hasn't suggested that
L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
Sadly it's not so simple, there is more to it than that.
It's definitely coming out:
And this definitely won't go in as it's got a shoulder on it:
So what does the nut do? You would expect tightening the nut to pull it out which can't be right.
It's definitely coming out:
And this definitely won't go in as it's got a shoulder on it:
So what does the nut do? You would expect tightening the nut to pull it out which can't be right.
JD450A
Feral as Fk 🐾
Drives out from the nut side to the flanf side.... So as per last photo
From memory that lip is a washer
GazCro
Well-known member
Heat is you're friend here
L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
It'll need large amounts of intense heat as it's big and the surrounding metalwork will take the heat away, I don't have that size of kit here.
I can see something now:
W = washer. The arrowed part is the bit which moves I think, the threaded bit is part of it.
It must be split halfway through where we can't see it, that's the only way that the flanged side is coming out, but not the threaded side.
I can see something now:
W = washer. The arrowed part is the bit which moves I think, the threaded bit is part of it.
It must be split halfway through where we can't see it, that's the only way that the flanged side is coming out, but not the threaded side.
Mogman
What man as done, man can do, what never has,maybe
Will just be seized plenty of heat (even from a plumbers blow touch will help) and a heavy hammer
JD450A
Feral as Fk 🐾
L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
I've belted it multiple times with a lump hammer. One of the problems is access, there isn't enough room to swing it and it's making a mess of the bolt.
I'm going to leave it for now until i've got the steering rams sorted and back on, then I can operate the hydraulics again and lift the skip up and down, maybe that will help and get me better access.
Will have to drive somewhere tomorrow to find ram seals. In the meantime fluids:
The axles originally wanted 'Texaco AS Transmission'. This translates to heavy duty, fully synthetic ATF and I need over 10L. Opie oils have some Millers millermatic DM at £48 for 10L + shipping. I've found Exopro DVI is cheaper so will get that.
Hydraulic fluids including brakes are HD32 or 37.
Engine is 10/30 mineral
Gbox and transfer box is 85/90
I'm going to leave it for now until i've got the steering rams sorted and back on, then I can operate the hydraulics again and lift the skip up and down, maybe that will help and get me better access.
Will have to drive somewhere tomorrow to find ram seals. In the meantime fluids:
The axles originally wanted 'Texaco AS Transmission'. This translates to heavy duty, fully synthetic ATF and I need over 10L. Opie oils have some Millers millermatic DM at £48 for 10L + shipping. I've found Exopro DVI is cheaper so will get that.
Hydraulic fluids including brakes are HD32 or 37.
Engine is 10/30 mineral
Gbox and transfer box is 85/90
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Lancs Lad
Well-known member
Yellow mapp gas gets surprisingly warm.
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
the washer is bigger than the pin to stop it pulling back through when the nut is done up ... cut 'em both off flush and as said cut either side of the rod eye .... you then only have the pin lengths in the bosses to contend with and if the flange end IS moving then you can belt that into the void left by the removal of the rod end. Can then also get a drift in and at the nut side .. again as said, if all else fails slit the plate and boss to open it up and release its grip.
was the only way this was coming out ... had good access to belt it/jack it out .. would NOT move
cut off flush to lugs 
slit the bosses
and ..
tapped out with a 1lb hammer after it was slit
L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
Thanksthe washer is bigger than the pin to stop it pulling back through when the nut is done up ... cut 'em both off flush and as said cut either side of the rod eye .... you then only have the pin lengths in the bosses to contend with and if the flange end IS moving then you can belt that into the void left by the removal of the rod end. Can then also get a drift in and at the nut side .. again as said, if all else fails slit the plate and boss to open it up and release its grip.
was the only way this was coming out ... had good access to belt it/jack it out .. would NOT move
View attachment 33402 View attachment 33403 cut off flush to lugs View attachment 33404 View attachment 33408
slit the bosses View attachment 33405 and ..View attachment 33406 tapped out with a 1lb hammer after it was slit
I see what you mean now, will treat that as a last resort. I note you said jack, I did realise this aft I could get a bottle jack in there and try that.If I had one
GazCro
Well-known member
You've gone too far now but when i did the steering ram seals and the 2 swivel ram seals on my old 6 tonne thwaites I didn't fight on taking the rams completely off. I only removed whichever end was easiest so i could get the ram into 2 pieces to change the seals. Admittedly it only needed seals and the right one were easily obtained. Its slightly different if you need to take the ram off to take it somewhere to be sorted or even to measure for seals.Thanks
If I had one
L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
The problem is both ends are locked solid!
L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
I can see this BMC being a total pain to replace. I'm seeing a few dumpers on the marketplace advertised as 'needs work to brakes' and now know why as they are NLA.
It looked like scrap when I removed it. I reckon someone's put brake fluid in it, what came out looked and smelled like it and the internals were rusty.
In desperation I stripped and cleaned it out, put it back on and filled with oil. Pumping it did nothing so I got the pressure bleeder out. I think the reservoirs plastic had gone brittle after many years of sunshine, it cracked and blew oil out all over the patio No oil came out of the caliper bleed point either and that's inside the axle. I've found new reservoirs for sale, £40 delivered.
Unsure what to do now, will try to think of some alternatives like classic car hydraulic suppliers/remanufacturers or something.
It looked like scrap when I removed it. I reckon someone's put brake fluid in it, what came out looked and smelled like it and the internals were rusty.
In desperation I stripped and cleaned it out, put it back on and filled with oil. Pumping it did nothing so I got the pressure bleeder out. I think the reservoirs plastic had gone brittle after many years of sunshine, it cracked and blew oil out all over the patio
No oil came out of the caliper bleed point either and that's inside the axle. I've found new reservoirs for sale, £40 delivered.Unsure what to do now, will try to think of some alternatives like classic car hydraulic suppliers/remanufacturers or something.
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L
LKSF
Pennine Hillbilly
Classic Car Brakes Ltd, brake cylinder re-sleeving, brake servos, brake calipers, Classic car spares, classic car brake parts, hydraulic brake components, classic vehicles, vintage vehicles, classic cars, Stourport, Stourport-on-Severn, Worcestershir
Classic Car Brakes Ltd carry out brake cylinder re-sleeving and are specialist suppliers of hydraulic brake components for classic and vintage vehicles such as classic cars, vans, trucks, buses, plant and agriculture
www.classiccar-brakes.co.uk
Shovelhands
Well-known member
More importantly you need to know what fluid the axles require if they are wet inboard brakes.
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