TEREX HD1000

[jd6820]

what a can of worms ..... WTF is this 'anti-start module' JD and what controls it ?

Haha, not sure why they call it an anti-start module as it controls the hydraulic brakes on the drive too it’s basically a white box with a few leds visible on the case. Internally it’s transistor driven outputs based on inputs from the machine and it decides what should be done based on the inputs it receives.

Inputs:
Seat switch, emergency stop, start/crank signal from ignition, alternator (engine running), neutral switch and finally ignition onsupply (12v)

Outputs:
Start relay (twinned with pull coil on stop solenoid), park brake and run coil on stop solenoid.
Hence the three light outputs…

I should add that once you’ve worked on a few and understand the wiring layout which seems to be shared across the terex range they ain’t bad to work on an a simple dashboard on the wiring side. But maybe I find it easy as I enjoy working on electronics

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

It sounds like when you excite the starter solenoid you are also exciting the throw in current on the fuel stop solenoid but it’s not giving that solenoid a running current once started! (Be careful you don’t burn out the stop solenoid) check the supply to the ignition switch, give us some pics.

 

[Howdeedoodee]

Thanks for the replies.
I'll make a video and upload it to YouTube then post the link.

 

[Howdeedoodee]

I've finally completed the 2 videos explaining everything I've done with the dumper diagnosis wise.
For some reason my phone stopped recording at a certain time length so I had to do a second video.
Both the links are below.

Video 1

Video 2

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

Where are you based?

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

Did you get the dumper as a non runner? Send me a pic of the starter showing the wiring, the ignition switch wiring, and the alternator wiring!

 

[jd6820]

Struggling to follow the video, when you have the drive lever in neutral are there any lights on the proximity switches? I'm trying to follow the video but it bounces from one thing to another rather quickly skimming over things. Added to it being recorded in portrait mode so it feels like looking through a keyhole, is making it more tricky to follow. The relay clicking when the lever is reversed is the backup alarm...

If you could answer the following:

Lever in neutral > Switch nearest the outside of the machine, is the light on or off? (That switch where it connects to the machine wiring harness should have an orange wire, green/brown and a black wire)

When the key is the key is turned to the start position do any of the lights on the white controller change?



As to why your dash lights don't work:

The green and yellow wire you've shown should be attached to a diode supplied with power via the small white wire attached to the ignition switch. My guess the reason the oil pressure light works is they have supplied a live via that soldered wire attached to the same terminal as the white wires as that shouldn't be there to my knowledge. Find the diode and reconnect it to the green/yellow and so long as the rest is wired correctly that should restore your dash lights.

 

[Howdeedoodee]

Did you get the dumper as a non runner? Send me a pic of the starter showing the wiring, the ignition switch wiring, and the alternator wiring!

Hi Mick

The details are in the video's in above links

 

[Howdeedoodee]

Did you get the dumper as a non runner? Send me a pic of the starter showing the wiring, the ignition switch wiring, and the alternator wiring!

No i got it as a runner and have been using it nearly every day for the last 5 weeks

 

[Howdeedoodee]

Struggling to follow the video, when you have the drive lever in neutral are there any lights on the proximity switches? I'm trying to follow the video but it bounces from one thing to another rather quickly skimming over things. Added to it being recorded in portrait mode so it feels like looking through a keyhole, is making it more tricky to follow. The relay clicking when the lever is reversed is the backup alarm...

If you could answer the following:

Lever in neutral > Switch nearest the outside of the machine, is the light on or off? (That switch where it connects to the machine wiring harness should have an orange wire, green/brown and a black wire)

When the key is the key is turned to the start position do any of the lights on the white controller change?



As to why your dash lights don't work:

The green and yellow wire you've shown should be attached to a diode supplied with power via the small white wire attached to the ignition switch. My guess the reason the oil pressure light works is they have supplied a live via that soldered wire attached to the same terminal as the white wires as that shouldn't be there to my knowledge. Find the diode and reconnect it to the green/yellow and so long as the rest is wired correctly that should restore your dash lights.

Hi

In neutral both the lights are off.
In reverse both the lights are on
In forward only 1 light is on

No lights change on the controller when the key is turned to start.
The only light that is ever on is light number 3.
I've had the dumper 5 weeks or more and only the oil light has ever iluminated when turning the key, it then goes off when the engine is started.
Mk
Maybe the led's are faulty?

 

[Howdeedoodee]

Struggling to follow the video, when you have the drive lever in neutral are there any lights on the proximity switches? I'm trying to follow the video but it bounces from one thing to another rather quickly skimming over things. Added to it being recorded in portrait mode so it feels like looking through a keyhole, is making it more tricky to follow. The relay clicking when the lever is reversed is the backup alarm...

If you could answer the following:

Lever in neutral > Switch nearest the outside of the machine, is the light on or off? (That switch where it connects to the machine wiring harness should have an orange wire, green/brown and a black wire)

When the key is the key is turned to the start position do any of the lights on the white controller change?



As to why your dash lights don't work:

The green and yellow wire you've shown should be attached to a diode supplied with power via the small white wire attached to the ignition switch. My guess the reason the oil pressure light works is they have supplied a live via that soldered wire attached to the same terminal as the white wires as that shouldn't be there to my knowledge. Find the diode and reconnect it to the green/yellow and so long as the rest is wired correctly that should restore your dash lights.

Hi
Try clicking the youtube icon when viewed on a mobile phone to go full screen.
Watch first video from 3 minutes 40 seconds to 5 minutes to see what the little orange led's on the switches do.
Thanks for your help

 

[Howdeedoodee]

Where can I get a manual for my terex HD1000

 

[Howdeedoodee]

Struggling to follow the video, when you have the drive lever in neutral are there any lights on the proximity switches? I'm trying to follow the video but it bounces from one thing to another rather quickly skimming over things. Added to it being recorded in portrait mode so it feels like looking through a keyhole, is making it more tricky to follow. The relay clicking when the lever is reversed is the backup alarm...

If you could answer the following:

Lever in neutral > Switch nearest the outside of the machine, is the light on or off? (That switch where it connects to the machine wiring harness should have an orange wire, green/brown and a black wire)

When the key is the key is turned to the start position do any of the lights on the white controller change?



As to why your dash lights don't work:

The green and yellow wire you've shown should be attached to a diode supplied with power via the small white wire attached to the ignition switch. My guess the reason the oil pressure light works is they have supplied a live via that soldered wire attached to the same terminal as the white wires as that shouldn't be there to my knowledge. Find the diode and reconnect it to the green/yellow and so long as the rest is wired correctly that should restore your dash lights.

Hi
I've been reading about the start stop solenoid...where is it located on the dumper?
Thanks
John

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

K903 engine, on the battery side, on the end of the injection pump.

 

[Howdeedoodee]

K903 engine, on the battery side, on the end of the injection pump.

Hi Mick

Thanks for that, that's one thing i haven't look at or tested becuase i didnt know it existed...that's where a service manual would of come in handy.
Is there anywhere that i can buy one for future reference.
Cheers
John

 

[jd6820]

Hi

In neutral both the lights are off.
In reverse both the lights are on
In forward only 1 light is on

No lights change on the controller when the key is turned to start.
The only light that is ever on is light number 3.
I've had the dumper 5 weeks or more and only the oil light has ever iluminated when turning the key, it then goes off when the engine is started.
Mk
Maybe the led's are faulty?

Yeah something is a miss then, either a faulty control unit or a wire to it. When the joystick hits neutral it should switch a light on the controller can you check the Orange wire into the Anti-start module, see if it changes between 0v and 12v when the shuttle lever is moved.

Then check the White and Purple (Seat switch) this should be 12V as you have bridged the wires.

Next the Orange and Yellow (Emergency stop) this too should be 12V.

Next when the key is turned to start (crank) position 12V on red wire at the module.

Next check that the White wire to Anti-start module has 12v with key in first position i.e. ignition on.

Next check Brown/White wire it should be 12V all the time.

Finally check Black wire is actually ground i.e. check between it and a known 12V source and verify the unit is getting a 0v reference.


The LED's rarely fail, like I said earlier it looks like the oil pressure LED has been fed from an alternate location and that the others have been left disconnected with the idea they are less critical lights. The green/yellow should have 12V feed from key on, my bet is that it doesn't due to either a blown or missing diode. But I can't see the dash wiring in enough detail to confirm my suspicions.

 

[jd6820]

Hi Mick

Thanks for that, that's one thing i haven't look at or tested becuase i didnt know it existed...that's where a service manual would of come in handy.
Is there anywhere that i can buy one for future reference.
Cheers
John

Sadly, the service manual basically tells you how to take big parts off the machine and very little about the engine in fact it just tells you how to remove the engine as a lump or swap the radiator. The electrical information contained in the manual is identical to the file above that is literally all there is. On these it seems to be a case of experience of Terex training information as the manuals hold very little to no useful info.

 

[Howdeedoodee]

Yeah something is a miss then, either a faulty control unit or a wire to it. When the joystick hits neutral it should switch a light on the controller can you check the Orange wire into the Anti-start module, see if it changes between 0v and 12v when the shuttle lever is moved.

Then check the White and Purple (Seat switch) this should be 12V as you have bridged the wires.

Next the Orange and Yellow (Emergency stop) this too should be 12V.

Next when the key is turned to start (crank) position 12V on red wire at the module.

Next check that the White wire to Anti-start module has 12v with key in first position i.e. ignition on.

Next check Brown/White wire it should be 12V all the time.

Finally check Black wire is actually ground i.e. check between it and a known 12V source and verify the unit is getting a 0v reference.


The LED's rarely fail, like I said earlier it looks like the oil pressure LED has been fed from an alternate location and that the others have been left disconnected with the idea they are less critical lights. The green/yellow should have 12V feed from key on, my bet is that it doesn't due to either a blown or missing diode. But I can't see the dash wiring in enough detail to confirm my suspicions.

Hi JD

Perfect!..thanks for that info, I'll check all that out tomorrow.
The reason i was rushing the video is because i had so much to explain and what i had tested but didnt want the video to go on for too long, it was over 30 minutes as it was, what I'll do tomorrow is take short 20 second video's showing different area's of the wiring pointing at the wiring only in landscape mode, For clarity I'll spread the wires out as much as possible so you can see them clearly and not bunched up.
I really appreciate this because my customers are bending my ear asking why I'm not proceeding with their Jobs, I've asked a couple of hire company fitters if they know the terex and they have said no, also here in Nottingham everyone's still gone building mad after the covid lockdown and I'm struggling to get a narrow dumper on hire that'll go down the side of houses....So the sooner i can get this solved the better.
Because Domestic building projects came to a halt for 12 months due to covid everyone is playing catchup and people are screaming out for builders and materials, I'm turning work away nearly every other day....it's gutting to have to turn it away and possibly lose a good repeat customer..I suppose it's work for somebody though.
Is there anywhere i can buy a manual because it's difficult diagnosing in the dark so to speak.
Thanks again
john

 

[Howdeedoodee]

On a side note...I suppose sometimes you have to look on the positive side when things like this go wrong with your plant as its a good way to get to know your machines by having a half strip them down searching for faults.
I've spent £40,000 on the Digger and dumper and cant afford to buy again so i just need to fix them, The new sany has 5 years 5000 hours warranty so i suppose i dont have to worry about that for a while.

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

If it used to work, maybe put it all back together and we can go from there!