Quickhitch

V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I thought the same Graham. Bucket Warehouse sell a Semi QH for £270 ex delivery. Make delivery another £30 and it is still £110 cheaper. However, what is the difference in quality like?

I have ordered a few buckets and other parts from DigBits before and I have always been satisfied with their product. Never dealt with Bucket Warehouse so not sure how their products are.
have you tried these guys? ... they get good reports

BMC Buckets
Unit 6c/d
Bulwark Industrial Estate
Chepstow
Monmouthshire
NP16 5QZ
Phone: 01291 630073
Fax: 01291 630561
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.bmc-buckets.co.uk
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
BMC do a wedge hitch too I have one welded under my Powertilt and it seems good but early days.

Rob is incredibly helpful.
 
CPS

CPS

Well-known member
Waiting for a quote from Harford for the Pro-Lok.

Just received my quote from DigBits for a Semi QH at £410, that is including VAT and delivery.

If the price for the Harford is similar to what DiggerJones has paid for his then I think that it will be an easy decision.
Just a note, I can supply a semi hitch for that size machine £245 plus vat delivered
 
GazCro

GazCro

Well-known member
sounds a very dear semi that, for the size of it ?? :unsure: ...... as said easy decision, based on Dylan's prices ;)(y)
Especially when you think how little there is to one, it's not like there's any inner workings. Good earner for them if they sell many though.
 
Flying Torquewrench

Flying Torquewrench

Active member
No I haven’t tried BMC to be honest. I will give them a call on Monday.

@CPS , thanks for that. I will keep it in mind and if I go the Semi hitch route then you can supply it.

For most on this forum it will be an easy choice as you earn your living with the machines. Mine gets used around 50/60 hours a year so wear is less of a factor and cost becomes more important. However whatever I buy I want it to be good. No point in going cheap if that means that in 3 years time I can replace it as it has completely worn out.

And I appreciate that you all take your time to give me advice. Thank you very much. (y) (y)
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
Depends upon your view. A cheap semi hitch has play built in, and if your buckets aren’t all worn exactly the same there will probably be one that is a pig to get on and the well used grader will have an inch of play each side of the bucket from the ground.
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
This is the only time I f**k about taking pins out, but it’s worth every greasy fingered minute of faffing. A right weapon with it direct mounted. I’ll be finished in a couple of hours after picking through with the grab.
3BCADBB9-1BA7-49FA-A4BF-27E0981D3F1B.jpeg
 
Flying Torquewrench

Flying Torquewrench

Active member
Cheers all.

I will wait till I get a quote from Harford and BMC before making any decisions. Also facing potential redundancy at work so that might change it all together.
 
GazCro

GazCro

Well-known member
An update on my geith. Knocked a couple of roll pins out to take the rear hook out. As I've said it's a really good simple design let down by quality standards. Rear hook runs in a groove in the hitch and won't pull the front latch until the rear runs out of travel
20200620_112025.jpg
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So the plan is to add a bit of extra meat onto the sides of the runners (for want of a better word) on the rear hook so it can't travel as far. I'm waiting for a mate later who's more use with a welder so I'll report back later. (Unless its a total f**k up and we'll just pretend this never happened) 🤣🤣🤣
20200620_112159.jpg
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
I'd tack a bit of stock the right width on at one 'corner' then roll it round and weld it again. Repeat a coupel of times and melt the ends together well. You want a proper stop there, so a square finish rather than a chamfered weld that could lead to jams.
 
GazCro

GazCro

Well-known member
I'd tack a bit of stock the right width on at one 'corner' then roll it round and weld it again. Repeat a coupel of times and melt the ends together well. You want a proper stop there, so a square finish rather than a chamfered weld that could lead to jams.
Planning on just building it up with weld and grinding it back to match the curve. 4mm extra will be plenty (should account for about 10 years wear elsewhere before its a problem). I'll be changing hitch in the next few years anyhow if i go to a tilty.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
surely it's the lower hooks that operate your secondary latch :unsure:.... doing what you're proposing will stop the jaw going back far enough to even contact with the secondary mechanism .... or does the cylinder pull the secondary mechanism at it's stroke end ???? :unsure:
can't see enough of it to be sure ??
 
GazCro

GazCro

Well-known member
surely it's the lower hooks that operate your secondary latch :unsure:.... doing what you're proposing will stop the jaw going back far enough to even contact with the secondary mechanism .... or does the cylinder pull the secondary mechanism at it's stroke end ???? :unsure:
can't see enough of it to be sure ??
One ram does both latches but due to springs has to do the rear first. I had a bar in the other day to check my idea and it should work. The other and easier option would be to grind the front latch down but that kinda defeats the purpose of it.
 
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