What disc cutters are we all using then?

kabin man

kabin man

Well-known member
The last proper job i did i used a 110 evolution and a makita battery grinder.The Stihl was on the site.for 6 months in the box unused.
Also one of the other subbies had a Flex track saw. It was so useful for accurate cuts and we made seat tops and window cills with drip slots etc.
It was all sandstone and porcelain paving.It was a learning curve with blades,as you cant rely on the brute power of petrol.
 
Giles

Giles

Well-known member
The last proper job i did i used a 110 evolution and a makita battery grinder.The Stihl was on the site.for 6 months in the box unused.
Also one of the other subbies had a Flex track saw. It was so useful for accurate cuts and we made seat tops and window cills with drip slots etc.
It was all sandstone and porcelain paving.It was a learning curve with blades,as you cant rely on the brute power of petrol.
I’ve a bench rail saw we use for slabbing and porcelain/sandstone etc makes straight cuts a doodle. Will cut 100mm as well so also handy for block work before I got the belle, the less bending over and holding with toe the lads do the better.
 
C

Cal919

Well-known member
Saw these today not sure when they are coming. The 305mm will do 121mm cut which i thought was pretty decent. The 230mm will do 88mm
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1512.png
    IMG_1512.png
    364.7 KB · Views: 191
6

6feetdown

Well-known member
Saw these today not sure when they are coming. The 305mm will do 121mm cut which i thought was pretty decent. The 230mm will do 88mm
I wish milwaukee would double up on batteries instead of using the stupidly expensive ones for the larger gear
 
groundworker

groundworker

Well-known member
Saw these today not sure when they are coming. The 305mm will do 121mm cut which i thought was pretty decent. The 230mm will do 88mm
Impressive cut depth for a 300mm blade, makes the 350mm 80v version seem a bit pointless as it's only 127mm depth cut.

I actually bought the 230mm twin 18v version last week, been good so far.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20240612_114816274.jpg
    PXL_20240612_114816274.jpg
    368.6 KB · Views: 167
C

Cal919

Well-known member
Impressive cut depth for a 300mm blade, makes the 350mm 80v version seem a bit pointless as it's only 127mm depth cut.

I actually bought the 230mm twin 18v version last week, been good so far.
I imagine the 80v is more aimed at power in harder applications rather than focusing on squeezing out cutting depth. Not sure id want one though they are big lumps.
 
groundworker

groundworker

Well-known member
I have an Ics concrete chainsaw 18” bar can plunge cut big pip from above, mine 2 strike but they do a hydraulic one. Can get a blade for ducting metal as well for ductile pipe etc
Hi @Giles do you have any more info on these saws please?

Customer has asked about cutting out some openings 300-700mm deep and a chainsaw looks like the way forward but there's a few options from 110v up to hydraulic, trying to work out which one is up to the challenge and if it's worth buying one

Cheers
 
C

Cal919

Well-known member
Hi @Giles do you have any more info on these saws please?

Customer has asked about cutting out some openings 300-700mm deep and a chainsaw looks like the way forward but there's a few options from 110v up to hydraulic, trying to work out which one is up to the challenge and if it's worth buying one

Cheers
You’d be better with a rail saw/getting a concrete cutter in no? All the videos ive seen of the concrete chainsaws never really sold them i dont think not for solid material anyways.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3607.jpeg
    IMG_3607.jpeg
    351 KB · Views: 59
  • IMG_3606.jpeg
    IMG_3606.jpeg
    461.5 KB · Views: 57
  • IMG_3595.jpeg
    IMG_3595.jpeg
    445.2 KB · Views: 58
  • IMG_3593.jpeg
    IMG_3593.jpeg
    429.1 KB · Views: 57
  • IMG_3591.jpeg
    IMG_3591.jpeg
    419.5 KB · Views: 77
groundworker

groundworker

Well-known member
You’d be better with a rail saw/getting a concrete cutter in no? All the videos ive seen of the concrete chainsaws never really sold them i dont think not for solid material anyways.
This is what I've suggested to the builders, they've already had a quote on it but sounds like it's very high.

It's in an architect's office and they want the reveals to be sawn straight through, the rail saw wouldn't give a square corner and they can't over cut.

I've watched a few vids, looks like the chainsaw will cut concrete so should manage brickwork ok but I imagine it would take some time!

 
Conor

Conor

Well-known member
You’d be better with a rail saw/getting a concrete cutter in no? All the videos ive seen of the concrete chainsaws never really sold them i dont think not for solid material anyways.
700mm too deep for a wall saw. Wire saw would be my suggestion. Drop a 20mm core in the corners and pull the wire, but not cheap. Chainsaws ok for small works but hard work if anything big
 

Attachments

  • 20241114_170721.jpg
    20241114_170721.jpg
    211.4 KB · Views: 80
groundworker

groundworker

Well-known member
700mm too deep for a wall saw. Wire saw would be my suggestion. Drop a 20mm core in the corners and pull the wire, but not cheap. Chainsaws ok for small works but hard work if anything big
I mentioned this to them too, don't think they have a quote on it yet though.

We had a long chat about it yesterday on another job, I don't think any option is ideal really and they may still have some making good to do on the cut face as the inner leafs of brickwork won't have been perfect even when built let alone after cutting.

But they seem keen to hand some of the work to me rather than a random subby, and it potentially gives me an excuse to buy some new kit so I am entertaining them for now!

I may well push them towards wire saw for the thickest walls and see if I can do the thinner ones myself.
 
Giles

Giles

Well-known member
I’ve done 450.mm brick work but damn it’s hard graft on hands and messy these where big forklift doors in factory’s will post pics up when I find them, its a process special wide stihl saw blade to start then keeping it straight is a task but Ics do do a wall mount rail to hold it
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9705_Original.png
    IMG_9705_Original.png
    625.6 KB · Views: 57
  • IMG_9715_Original.png
    IMG_9715_Original.png
    365.4 KB · Views: 53
  • IMG_9716_Original.png
    IMG_9716_Original.png
    694.5 KB · Views: 53
  • IMG_9722_Original.png
    IMG_9722_Original.png
    377.4 KB · Views: 52
  • IMG_9711_Original.png
    IMG_9711_Original.png
    441.5 KB · Views: 49
  • IMG_9712_Original.png
    IMG_9712_Original.png
    645.7 KB · Views: 53
  • IMG_9709_Original.png
    IMG_9709_Original.png
    700 KB · Views: 55
  • IMG_9710_Original.png
    IMG_9710_Original.png
    675 KB · Views: 52
  • IMG_9713_Original.png
    IMG_9713_Original.png
    424.8 KB · Views: 52
  • IMG_9703_Original.png
    IMG_9703_Original.png
    716.6 KB · Views: 53
  • IMG_9733_Original.png
    IMG_9733_Original.png
    749.3 KB · Views: 52
  • IMG_9732_Original.png
    IMG_9732_Original.png
    732.2 KB · Views: 47
  • IMG_9731_Original.png
    IMG_9731_Original.png
    711 KB · Views: 49
  • IMG_9728_Original.png
    IMG_9728_Original.png
    373.5 KB · Views: 58
D

DaveDCB

Well-known member
I’ve the husky cut n break, works well, think it does 460mm, but I’m left handed, grown up holding Stihl saw backwards fine, the husky is a real pain for me, I look over the wrong side of it to keep it square.. does the job but deffo want it covered up before anyone passes comment 😂
 
Giles

Giles

Well-known member
Been handy over the years not used it for 5 years or more as we’ve been on trust work haven’t needed it

The petrol one is 50:1 not 25:1 like most so it’s a bit fuely and not fun in confined spaces

Hydraulic or electric be better, need 1-2 bar water pressure to lubricate chains, chains and bars wear quick and stretch

I worked on 1 bar and chain a big doorway so like 500 in bits
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9723_Original.png
    IMG_9723_Original.png
    328.5 KB · Views: 52
  • IMG_9727_Original.png
    IMG_9727_Original.png
    391 KB · Views: 51
  • IMG_9725_Original.png
    IMG_9725_Original.png
    418 KB · Views: 47
  • IMG_9726_Original.png
    IMG_9726_Original.png
    648 KB · Views: 47
  • IMG_9724_Original.png
    IMG_9724_Original.png
    456.3 KB · Views: 44
  • IMG_9717_Original.png
    IMG_9717_Original.png
    763.1 KB · Views: 49
  • IMG_9719_Original.png
    IMG_9719_Original.png
    729.5 KB · Views: 45
  • IMG_9720_Original.png
    IMG_9720_Original.png
    768.1 KB · Views: 46
  • IMG_9721_Original.png
    IMG_9721_Original.png
    678.3 KB · Views: 58
groundworker

groundworker

Well-known member
Been handy over the years not used it for 5 years or more as we’ve been on trust work haven’t needed it

The petrol one is 50:1 not 25:1 like most so it’s a bit fuely and not fun in confined spaces

Hydraulic or electric be better, need 1-2 bar water pressure to lubricate chains, chains and bars wear quick and stretch

I worked on 1 bar and chain a big doorway so like 500 in bits
500 quid per opening 🤯 going to be an expensive job then, sounds like hard going too.

I definitely would prefer to not use 2 stroke, most of the second hand ones seem to be 2 stroke though. Hydraulic looks expensive as I'd need power pack too. Not sure if the leccy ones are man enough on standard 110v?

Thanks a lot for the pics, really helpful.
 
Giles

Giles

Well-known member
500 quid per opening 🤯 going to be an expensive job then, sounds like hard going too.

I definitely would prefer to not use 2 stroke, most of the second hand ones seem to be 2 stroke though. Hydraulic looks expensive as I'd need power pack too. Not sure if the leccy ones are man enough on standard 110v?

Thanks a lot for the pics, really helpful.

That’s in brick as well, concrete and rebar wears them quicker as well

Used to be £500 a day for the concrete cutting guy he had everything in his van and would do clean cuts cut and break saw, ring saw, etc

The big rail saws are the mutts though I looked into buying a second hand one when we were doing lots of knock throughs was a hilt one for about 6k 600mm blade max and 3m rail with controller, pump etc

But then the knock throughs we started doing between steels so we’re easier just needle them knock brick out then weld a steel in must have done 10 with factory changes
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8151_Original.jpeg
    IMG_8151_Original.jpeg
    221.7 KB · Views: 50
  • IMG_6461_Original.jpeg
    IMG_6461_Original.jpeg
    156.3 KB · Views: 48
6

6feetdown

Well-known member
This is what I've suggested to the builders, they've already had a quote on it but sounds like it's very high.

It's in an architect's office and they want the reveals to be sawn straight through, the rail saw wouldn't give a square corner and they can't over cut.

I've watched a few vids, looks like the chainsaw will cut concrete so should manage brickwork ok but I imagine it would take some time!

I used 1 in a school years ago very messey had wet vacuum as we were cutting.
You'll have to make good the Reveals as you'll struggle to keep it square etc.
Last rail saw I had a quote for in civic centre about 8 years ago I think was 6500 ish we ended up stitch drilling it
 
Top