Pissing about with only half a clue on the shed site.

V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Today I picked up 300 baby trees to replace my deceased bare root ones that didn’t survive the dry spring. More on them when I plant them. I’ve exams hopefully.
While there I noticed his drainage channels in the yard , and on his steep track. Quote impressed with the idea.
He says he saw it used in New Zealand. A quick google shows other rural frugal folks have also tried it.
Armco -- bloody brilliant idea :love::cool:(y)(y)
be even more efficient set at an angle to the track
 
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Stroppymonkey

Well-known member

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DaveDCB

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I think it would have to be a 2-part job in reality - bulk out the slab and then stick the ufh in a self-levelling liquid screed afterwards.
To get the best finish and not damage the pipework i agree!
I’d just want insulation under the Structual slab with pipework ontop… but then you’d have no insulation to fix the pipework into. Clip rails work well, just have to mechanical fix the ends down I guess. Must be a drawing somewhere online !
 
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Stroppymonkey

Well-known member
To get the best finish and not damage the pipework i agree!
I’d just want insulation under the Structual slab with pipework ontop… but then you’d have no insulation to fix the pipework into. Clip rails work well, just have to mechanical fix the ends down I guess. Must be a drawing somewhere online !
What kind of a self levelling screed would I need to take forklifts ? A 2.5T CB FLT will put 6.5T onto front wheels when loaded. Needs 8” concrete pad when I last checked, but I’ve never cracked our 3” shed floor with ours yet.

Fixing UFH direct onto concrete doesn’t scare me , done it plenty of times. Concrete nail gun helps.

Still won’t be able to use laser grader on the initial slab due to the insulation layer.

I know a guy that has a laser machine so I will chat with him. I suspect that pipes clipped to insulation with 150-180mm of power floated / fibre reinforced mix laid with a pump and levelling beams might be solution.
K-Form to maybe get it all set level and give joints….
At least then you would have good 100mm fixings and still be 30mm away from any pipes.

Just Concrete + insulation now and then UFH + screed later does have the attraction of pushing a large part of the cost and the work much further down the road 🧐
 
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Smiffy

Well-known member
What kind of a self levelling screed would I need to take forklifts ? A 2.5T CB FLT will put 6.5T onto front wheels when loaded. Needs 8” concrete pad when I last checked, but I’ve never cracked our 3” shed floor with ours yet.

Fixing UFH direct onto concrete doesn’t scare me , done it plenty of times. Concrete nail gun helps.

Still won’t be able to use laser grader on the initial slab due to the insulation layer.

I know a guy that has a laser machine so I will chat with him. I suspect that pipes clipped to insulation with 150-180mm of power floated / fibre reinforced mix laid with a pump and levelling beams might be solution.
K-Form to maybe get it all set level and give joints….
At least then you would have good 100mm fixings and still be 30mm away from any pipes.

Just Concrete + insulation now and then UFH + screed later does have the attraction of pushing a large part of the cost and the work much further down the road 🧐

You could get a cost for them cut grooves in the concrete for the ufh pipes.
 
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Stroppymonkey

Well-known member
It might be a close run thing as if you recess them In the concrete you can screed it in 5mm latex self leveling compound which would be far cheaper than a 75mm concrete screed over surface mounted pipework.
That’s not ideal for heating purposes.. you want the heat source in the centre or bottom half of the thermal mass really. It would be ok for a retrofit in a dwelling where the floor covering would give extra depth and diffuse the heat.
 
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DaveDCB

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Just priced up xps £20/m and the last screed I had was around £21/m2… my next unit is 500m2…. 20k for abit of warmth.. 2k buys a monster kero burner!! 🤠
 
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Stroppymonkey

Well-known member
That’s my dilemma as well , a big heater blasting for 20mins in winter would fairly heat up a 100m2 shed but the UFH in slab is lovely when your lying on the floor underneath something .
Insulation usually pays for itself in the end . Radiant slab is FAR superior than blown air.
 
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DaveDCB

Well-known member
That’s my dilemma as well , a big heater blasting for 20mins in winter would fairly heat up a 100m2 shed but the UFH in slab is lovely when your lying on the floor underneath something .
How about do 1 bay with ufh? Fair enough it will have to work hard to heat the whole unit up, but if the point is only to keep your feet and back warm when under something then might be a bad idea? Esp if only running at 12deg anyway.
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
How about do 1 bay with ufh? Fair enough it will have to work hard to heat the whole unit up, but if the point is only to keep your feet and back warm when under something then might be a bad idea? Esp if only running at 12deg anyway.
I’ve been thinking about that as well ! And a shiftable partition . I’m having a big door in both gables so I thought about half way
 
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DaveDCB

Well-known member
I’ve been thinking about that as well ! And a shiftable partition . I’m having a big door in both gables so I thought about half way
You could do say 50m2 in the workshop area, still able laser beam around it and just do some hand lay in the sensitive area.. want to go full hog you could cast a smaller slab underneath that area to take the insulation prior and then mass pour the rest ontop..
 
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Stroppymonkey

Well-known member
Got a couple hours this afternoon with pecker/post cup to try and temporarily sort some temp retaining affair in a corner that we overdug back in the summer. Slightly embarrassed by my lack of planning and measuring .

Got the KX back undercover to wash off and then found O/S track slipping off idler. Promptly made it worse nor better and dropped it off the drive sprocket as well . First time I’ve had to deal with this solo in the dark.

Some cursing later and all sorted. That side seems to slacken off over time. Leaking seal on piston?
 

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