heritage machining
Well-known member
I think it does not have a planetary box as it lists 305nm torque seems low to me next thing has anyone got or knows of a sh one
doobin
Well-known member
What a waste of steel!
What machine do you want it for and what size augers?
6
6feetdown
Well-known member
Same nobody could match him
heritage machining
Well-known member
I
I was going to use it on my mates sany 1.8 ton I think it has 30mm pins I need to put in 4" concrete posts so probably 8 or 10" auger
heritage machining
Well-known member
Or possibly make a mount for the bobcat
Quattromike
Well member-known
What is the ground you are working in?
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I augered 20 odd 8" holes for our trellis fence 2+ft deep with a two man hand held Stihl, in shale, in a morning, many years ago ... they were 4" posts ... got three to replace now after the winds ... all set in concrete - not looking forward to getting the old ones out, that have snapped at G/L .... have a few ideas to try to get 'em back out
the 8" hole was plenty adequate for the 4" posts (I did set them out carefully and almost all of them ended up pretty central in the holes).
the Auger worked a lot better after I showed it the grinder and put a decent sharp cutting edge on it
would like one to go on little jakie as have quite a few posts to replace in fence lines, but can't really warrant the cost of one ..... Might ask Paul if he hires any out, that'd suit (don't really like hiring though - dead money)
the 8" hole was plenty adequate for the 4" posts (I did set them out carefully and almost all of them ended up pretty central in the holes).
the Auger worked a lot better after I showed it the grinder and put a decent sharp cutting edge on it
would like one to go on little jakie as have quite a few posts to replace in fence lines, but can't really warrant the cost of one ..... Might ask Paul if he hires any out, that'd suit (don't really like hiring though - dead money)
heritage machining
Well-known member
Looks pretty reasonable however I'm expecting a bit of clay with a few flints I'm in the chilterns so chalk clay and flints a pretty usual
doobin
Well-known member
Pdx2 is what you want then. More torque less speed. About right for a 1.8t machine in that ground with a 10” auger
Lancs Lad
Well-known member
Wooden posts?I augered 20 odd 8" holes for our trellis fence 2+ft deep with a two man hand held Stihl, in shale, in a morning, many years ago ... they were 4" posts ... got three to replace now after the winds ... all set in concrete - not looking forward to getting the old ones out, that have snapped at G/L .... have a few ideas to try to get 'em back out
the 8" hole was plenty adequate for the 4" posts (I did set them out carefully and almost all of them ended up pretty central in the holes).
the Auger worked a lot better after I showed it the grinder and put a decent sharp cutting edge on it
would like one to go on little jakie as have quite a few posts to replace in fence lines, but can't really warrant the cost of one ..... Might ask Paul if he hires any out, that'd suit (don't really like hiring though - dead money)
I've had success with highlift jack and massive coach bolts etc.
You've got much bigger toys at your disposal .
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
got some 10" x 20 mm coach screws here some where ... weld a ring on top of one and attach to 'DremaWooden posts?
I've had success with highlift jack and massive coach bolts etc.
You've got much bigger toys at your disposal .
or
auger out the 4" remnant ... and encourage some 1002 SHS posts in, in their stead with, you guessed it ... the 'Drema
or
make a 902 SHS stub with some drive edges to the corners ... put it under a hitch plate under the VA-r, in the hole and rotate the concrete out quietly ... perhaps?
... they were very clean holes ... but now over 10 yr old or
open to suggestions
job for better weather though and'll have to remove the damned panels first (which were built in situ and never intended to come back off the posts)
S
Steve
Well-known member
Auger down through the centre is probably best option . If the post broke off from rot a coach screw will probably just pull out anyway.got some 10" x 20 mm coach screws here some where ... weld a ring on top of one and attach to 'Drema
or
auger out the 4" remnant ... and encourage some 1002 SHS posts in, in their stead with, you guessed it ... the 'Drema
or
make a 902 SHS stub with some drive edges to the corners ... put it under a hitch plate under the VA-r, in the hole and rotate the concrete out quietly ... perhaps?
or
open to suggestions
job for better weather though and'll have to remove the damned panels first (which were built in situ and never intended to come back off the posts)
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
agreed .. but i think they've just snapped ... won't really know 'til I get a/the panel(s) disconnected from the posts .. as said ... weather is gonna have to improve a bit first to develop the enthusiasm
S
Smiffy
Well-known member
got some 10" x 20 mm coach screws here some where ... weld a ring on top of one and attach to 'Drema
or
auger out the 4" remnant ... and encourage some 1002 SHS posts in, in their stead with, you guessed it ... the 'Drema
or
make a 902 SHS stub with some drive edges to the corners ... put it under a hitch plate under the VA-r, in the hole and rotate the concrete out quietly ... perhaps?
or
open to suggestions
job for better weather though and'll have to remove the damned panels first (which were built in situ and never intended to come back off the posts)
Can't you just grab the top of the post with one of your many grabbing devices??
S
Steve
Well-known member
Never thought of that, he could probably unscrew it
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
sadly, as said, pretty sure they've snapped off at concrete level, possibly even slightly below ... will know better once I've had a scrat about ... the Cranab'd scare the bejesus out of the concrete though, if i could get a hold of it .... I don't really want to destroy the holes/sockets/pockets if I can help it, 's why i thought of a drive spigot to rotate it in the holes, if i can't cleanly clear the 4" remnants out and leave a decent socket to try to persuade some 100mm SHS into
T
topkit
Well-known member
Like Mr Druid I would like to get one to go on my B15-3 but have held off as I was considering getting something a little larger 1.8 or 1.9 ton, Do you think a 1.5 ton is too small for a decent Auger.
Lancs Lad
Well-known member
Sometimes tanalised works like release oil and the slide nicely out of a concrete socket....if you really really lucky
otherwise it's bad words and faffing
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
the bottom two feet of each post had 3 coats of black bitumenous so not really expecting them to be ripe TBHSometimes tanalised works like release oil and the slide nicely out of a concrete socket....if you really really lucky
S
Steve
Well-known member
Go & buy the posts now so you can start the process of drying them out and pickling them in your chosen treatment ready for when the weather has improved and enthusiasm has been restored.
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