What tiltrotator for Kubota kx027-4 hi spec

V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Go S30 unless you want to share attachments with a bigger machine in the future - S40 covers machines upto 6 tonnes.
You will need some sort of control system if you are having a hydraulic quick hitch below - if you are going to the expense of a tilty you might as well have an extra service through it so you can run a grab so this will also need to be switched by the same control system. If you just have a manual QH and no need for oil through then you could just plumb it in to your machine - I’m not sure if such a basic tilty is available thoug?
Rototilt R1 is their smallest unit. I have a feeling that the equivalent Engcon is a bit lighter (which is a good thing) but Engcon won’t allow any breaker use (you can use breakers under Rototilts if you are so minded!)…
Price them all up but make sure you are comparing apples with apples - SMP and Steelwrist are as well proven as the others already mentioned.
4 pipe-er on prop. services will give you tilt / rotate as default ...
to get an aux below you'll need a rotary coupling through the tilty ...
same for a hydraulic S type hitch ...
so for both, you need a 4 gallery rotary coupling (like I built into my own VA-r)
both of those will be controlled by a 6x2 diverter (per circuit) in the tilty and will be alternate to the default, usually tilt ....
so it would be either tilt or aux ..
or
tilt or hitch ...
the S type, by design, does not need the constant pressure exerted on a conventional hitch's ram as the wedge shaped pins, holding the bucket are also spring loaded and the ram's check valve stops it losing pressure, that grips the bucket/att in place.
the two 6x2 diverters merely need a button to control each --- default is tilt ..
press a button to change to aux (either momentary or locking)
ditto the hitch (but most likely a momentary only button - for safety)
the 'control system' for this sort of set up is a bit of a misnomer (and possibly a chance to 'lay it on thick' for sales purposes ££s-wise ;)) ... hardly a 'control system' ... a couple of simple switches and three cores of wire - 2 lives and an earth ;)
 
M

Monkeybusiness

Well-known member
4 pipe-er on prop. services will give you tilt / rotate as default ...
to get an aux below you'll need a rotary coupling through the tilty ...
same for a hydraulic S type hitch ...
so for both, you need a 4 gallery rotary coupling (like I built into my own VA-r)
both of those will be controlled by a 6x2 diverter (per circuit) in the tilty and will be alternate to the default, usually tilt ....
so it would be either tilt or aux ..
or
tilt or hitch ...
the S type, by design, does not need the constant pressure exerted on a conventional hitch's ram as the wedge shaped pins, holding the bucket are also spring loaded and the ram's check valve stops it losing pressure, that grips the bucket/att in place.
the two 6x2 diverters merely need a button to control each --- default is tilt ..
press a button to change to aux (either momentary or locking)
ditto the hitch (but most likely a momentary only button - for safety)
the 'control system' for this sort of set up is a bit of a misnomer (and possibly a chance to 'lay it on thick' for sales purposes ££s-wise ;)) ... hardly a 'control system' ... a couple of simple switches and three cores of wire - 2 lives and an earth ;)
My 4 pipe Rototilts have an ecu-style control box plugged into a loom in the cab to control switching between tilt/hitch/aux. I knackered one box (damaged the wiring on the dipper and something must have shorted out) and the replacement was over £500 from memory. It’s got a full on circuit board inside, not sure why it’s needed but it definitely is!
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
My 4 pipe Rototilts have an ecu-style control box plugged into a loom in the cab to control switching between tilt/hitch/aux. I knackered one box (damaged the wiring on the dipper and something must have shorted out) and the replacement was over £500 from memory. It’s got a full on circuit board inside, not sure why it’s needed but it definitely is!
:oops::oops::oops::oops::oops: ....... me neither .... you're controlling two solenoid coils with it FFS ... as said " possibly a chance to 'lay it on thick' for sales purposes ££s-wise " same as everything - put a PCB in it and charge 10 times what the boards cost :mad:
I'd wager a Mars bar or two, that I could get it up and dancing without it ;):giggle:
Had a PCB in the Countax's dash go down several years ago - killed it stone dead - I just re-wired it out and has run fine without the bloody thing for years
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I'd like to be able to take rototilt off and have hydraulic hitch but would be way to heavy
just have a hitch for when you need it ... put it on QCs and a conventional hitch valve .. it won't mind being dead ended, when the hitch is off ... they are all the time anyway, in operation :rolleyes:
 
B

Brendan

Well-known member
I asked the same question before to Robert and his opinion was still going for what colour of tilty proprietary control system as they have all been doing for longer and their systems are better.

Engcon do a hydraulic s30 hitch it's small around 15kg (will check actual weight) there is no lifting eye on the hitch
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I asked the same question before to Robert and his opinion was still going for what colour of tilty proprietary control system as they have all been doing for longer and their systems are better.

Engcon do a hydraulic s30 hitch it's small around 15kg (will check actual weight) there is no lifting eye on the hitch
and will all take as much wonga off you as they can for what is essentially two switches on a four pipe unit .... DC2/SVAB/whatever is a totally different story ... it is high tech., splitting and controlling a single supply proportionally to all functions ... they are the mutt's for that function .... but for four pipes on two basic prop. services, you simply have to switch where your machine's systems send the oil.

think of it like your one service's two pipes (flow/return) are plugged/unplugged into whichever function you want to use -- but electrically, instead of having to get out and swap pipes over ..
that is all it does ..
the diverter valves simply send A/B flow/return to function 1 in default mode (tilt), or divert them to function 2, at the press of a button (aux) ...
ditto function 3 (hitch) with two diverters - one for Aux and one for a hitch, otherwise default is tilt ...
with your machine's second service exclusively powering rotate.
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
The new sanys got four pipes and prop aux so I’ll watch this with interest, see if I can be first op to spend more on attachment than the brand new carrier 🤣 I will know then I really have gone mental
Brilliant Lee ! Do you think you could get 50% more for one of them with a tiltrotator ? I reckon you probably would . It would likely get abused though 😳
 
L

Lee

Well-known member
Brilliant Lee ! Do you think you could get 50% more for one of them with a tiltrotator ? I reckon you probably would . It would likely get abused though 😳
I’d want 100% more if it’s the same cost as the machine. Not sure what the demand would be for small stuff, probably get people wanting to try tilty before buying rather than regular hire but I’d happily pay extra £200 to try one for a week if I was thinking of spending big bucks on one. Be nice for our own work too.
I imagine depreciation cost on them would be pretty low so cost of ownership actually probably not much anyway if replacing every 3-5 years? Say 20k total spend inc servicing losing 50%? Could be less than £50/Wk *fag packet numbers

Or it could be like the mulcher I bought everyone asked for one until I bought 1. Went out once in 3 years. Used it myself twice and one of those was on the farm!
 
CPS

CPS

Well-known member
@Vinpetrol you could get a 6 hose R1 on S30 for just less than 10K. This would use your twin AUX lines and quick hitch lines. A simple diverter then switches between tilt and Aux/grab (note you can't get a gripper on S30) Weight would be just shy of 100kg on this spec.
 
CPS

CPS

Well-known member
:oops::oops::oops::oops::oops: ....... me neither .... you're controlling two solenoid coils with it FFS ... as said " possibly a chance to 'lay it on thick' for sales purposes ££s-wise " same as everything - put a PCB in it and charge 10 times what the boards cost :mad:
I'd wager a Mars bar or two, that I could get it up and dancing without it ;):giggle:
You Could, and I have got them working without the control box! But the big thing that all manufactures have to comply with is CE! Its all about repeatably and commonalty!

The control boxes is literally plug and play, + & -, wires to the spare buttons for switch over and a quick hitch function. Aux services and quick hitch divert/lock out tilt when in use, so this is another function. Aux has the option to lock on Aux I.E press once for Aux, press again to go back to Tilt.

No Rocket science, but believe me you would rather use one of them than feck about with wiring and relays on an install
 
Furniss

Furniss

Well-known member
You’ll never want to take it off unless you have a breaker going on.. 👌🏻
I've just done a digout where I would of taken mine off I think, nice low build height on an engcon top hitch is going to give the machine some tearout back.
Also think 6feetdown is on s40 on 3t which would be nice to take off I guess 🤔
 
Vinpetrol

Vinpetrol

Well-known member
We do a nice little manual one for £850 which people have bought ''just in case''
I’ve wondered about this . If you really want to take it off , what’s the big deal ? 4 pipes to disconnect then it’s the same as old school changing a bucket . Especially on a new machine that won’t have any shims in the linkage. I assume you could even have a hydraulic hitch to make the machine still fully functional . Handy if you did want to use a breaker , hard digging , or tilt rotator maintenance . It would avoid the excess build up you get with hitch mounted unit
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
You Could, and I have got them working without the control box! But the big thing that all manufactures have to comply with is CE! Its all about repeatably and commonalty!

The control boxes is literally plug and play, + & -, wires to the spare buttons for switch over and a quick hitch function. Aux services and quick hitch divert/lock out tilt when in use, so this is another function. Aux has the option to lock on Aux I.E press once for Aux, press again to go back to Tilt.

No Rocket science, but believe me you would rather use one of them than feck about with wiring and relays on an install
yeh, but as said for an individual it really isn't rocket science .. (y)
if one picked up a s/hand unit, with now't but the tilty, for north of 500 quid I could get pretty bloody enthused about a couple of switches and relays in my own box, or parked elsewhere.:giggle:
The hitch you'd not want to be latching really and possibly a secondary interlock that needed to be operated simultaneously, to prevent accidental activation and as I said for the Aux. - you could have either momentary or latching - latching'd be my preference (sort of) but having to swap between say a grab and tilt, momentary'd also be preferable in certain circumstances (both options'd be handy depending on application -- and do-able);)
 
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