GazCro
Well-known member
I bet there's some small print to go with the 500hr greasing though there's no way they can back it up. At the end of the day if nothing else regular greasing keeps dirt and rust etc out of the bushes if nothing else.
Gunners
Well-known member
I raised this point at the factory and they literally stood there and told me it would work. I've even got a sample one on my desk in front of me from that day! Even having heard it direct from them, myself, like the rest of the group would still "over grease" our machines
CPS
Well-known member
If seen other machine use those bushes, no way would I let them go 500hrs
GazCro
Well-known member
Until i hear from someone who has stuck to the 500hr greasing and either seen no wear or had jcb send them all new bushes foc in not buying itI raised this point at the factory and they literally stood there and told me it would work. I've even got a sample one on my desk in front of me from that day! Even having heard it direct from them, myself, like the rest of the group would still "over grease" our machines
Shovelhands
Well-known member
damn right I do! 450 hrs greasing, without fail, and I never skimp, wouldn’t dream of pushing it to 500hrs!
on a serious note, I don’t agree with the 500hr greasing at all. It’s fine in theory, and I’m sure it stands up to the tests at the factory. But theres no way they can replicate the average 500hrs of a machine! Site conditions are totally different and highly variable. 500hrs on a building site is totally different to my 500hrs for example. My 500hrs could take a year, others only a few months, that makes a big difference. Greasing an excavator is as much about keeping crap out as it is lubricating the joint.
So yes, I over grease, as I’m sure many of us do, only downside is the mess, particularly if working near trees as I have been lately, machines in a right state!
Furniss
Well-known member
Took motor off this afternoon - not a drop of oil in it !!! doesnt look like its had any in for months - so its ferked I reckon 
only had machine a few weeks and was told it was done annually
Fecking annoying because I may have caught it if I had checked but having been told it was all done never thought for a minute it would be dry.
Best price back is an outfit called Duraquip - They do Eaton duradrive with 2yrs warranty or Plusdrive their own brand with 1yr and 300 cheaper.
has anyone any experience, feedback with duraquip ?
FDC havent got back to me yet.
only had machine a few weeks and was told it was done annually Fecking annoying because I may have caught it if I had checked but having been told it was all done never thought for a minute it would be dry.
Best price back is an outfit called Duraquip - They do Eaton duradrive with 2yrs warranty or Plusdrive their own brand with 1yr and 300 cheaper.
has anyone any experience, feedback with duraquip ?
FDC havent got back to me yet.
doobin
Well-known member
You might be surprised- try a fill and flush a few times.
Had a front diff on a ranger seize solid whilst driving, but it worked again once I'd put oil in it. Friction may have stopped things before serious damage was done.
Had a front diff on a ranger seize solid whilst driving, but it worked again once I'd put oil in it. Friction may have stopped things before serious damage was done.
GazCro
Well-known member
I'd take cover off for a look in see if there's any bits broke off anywhere. Might get lucky and find none in which case I'd try some oil in and try it like doobin says. Doesn't look good though its not exactly clean in there by the looks. It's probably been without oil long enough that even if you had checked it wouldn't have mattered.
Furniss
Well-known member
Will give it a whirl in the morning with some oil in it.. It did cross my mind for a sec but the way it banged stop I thought dont be daft its fooked.
But nowt to loose I suppose
But nowt to loose I suppose
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
FFS Kev .... take the plate off, flush it thoroughly with Kero and plenty of 150 psi air to remove all crap ........ then give it a whirl if you can't see anything obvious .....Will give it a whirl in the morning with some oil in it.. It did cross my mind for a sec but the way it banged stop I thought dont be daft its fooked.
But nowt to loose I suppose
looking at the shite in there it's possible that enough tish'd jam it solid, trapped in the planetary/annular interface ... do it right mate .... get it clean ... could save you a lot of money
CPS
Well-known member
Use light oil like hyd oil etc, won't knacker the seals then like using diesel or kero. Get as much s**t as possible out of there.
That said if its got no oil the seals are most likely fecked
That said if its got no oil the seals are most likely fecked
O
oldchips
Member
Exactly the problem I had with a JS150, track would move a bit in each direction. The problem was the track gearbox gears lost all their teeth, and a large lump was jamming the remains.
Box had oil in it, but stank to high heaven when I changed it after purchase. One of the things to do with a s/h possible is remove the level plugs from ALL gearboxes and see and smell what is inside. I think that the excessive loading, from the oil companies website, breaks the oil down to cause the smell.
I was offered a s/h track gearbox complete for £1400, would have taken it but meant splitting the track, something I was unwilling to do in the middle of a wood. So I bought just the three dual gears, cost near £900, and am rebuilding, after 16 months got nowhere with FiL dying and now covid.
The reason the gearbox failed was that it was a scrap handler, and never moved. What ever you do with a machine, move it at least 4 lengths every couple of months. You need to spread the EP90 around inside the gearbox, not just the gears, also all the oil seals, bearings etc. Similarly with slew gearbox, round and round regularly.
Oil and grease are wonderful things!
Box had oil in it, but stank to high heaven when I changed it after purchase. One of the things to do with a s/h possible is remove the level plugs from ALL gearboxes and see and smell what is inside. I think that the excessive loading, from the oil companies website, breaks the oil down to cause the smell.
I was offered a s/h track gearbox complete for £1400, would have taken it but meant splitting the track, something I was unwilling to do in the middle of a wood. So I bought just the three dual gears, cost near £900, and am rebuilding, after 16 months got nowhere with FiL dying and now covid.
The reason the gearbox failed was that it was a scrap handler, and never moved. What ever you do with a machine, move it at least 4 lengths every couple of months. You need to spread the EP90 around inside the gearbox, not just the gears, also all the oil seals, bearings etc. Similarly with slew gearbox, round and round regularly.
Oil and grease are wonderful things!
doobin
Well-known member
Any update on this?
Furniss
Well-known member
If you mean me then Yes you lads were right - I ordered new one and when it arrived I took it along with the old one that I had flushed out (with diesel/air etc as suggested)to the stricken machine, put the old one on first and after a few attempts in either direction it groaned its way back into life - back at the yard I run it round and did several flush throughs and it took a fair few times to get the black sludge sufficiently in suspension to clean it out, no teeth of filings came out with it so maybe it will last
Got a spare if the worst happens.
- I ordered new one and when it arrived I took it along with the old one that I had flushed out (with diesel/air etc as suggested)to the stricken machine, put the old one on first and after a few attempts in either direction it groaned its way back into life - back at the yard I run it round and did several flush throughs and it took a fair few times to get the black sludge sufficiently in suspension to clean it out, no teeth of filings came out with it so maybe it will last Got a spare if the worst happens.
doobin
Well-known member
that's all i wanted to hearIf you mean me then Yes you lads were right
Got a spare if the worst happens.
I'd have returned the spare, lot of money to have sitting on the shelf!
Furniss
Well-known member
that's all i wanted to hear
I'd have returned the spare, lot of money to have sitting on the shelf!
I know you did
I have a feeling I will need it
JD450A
Feral as Fk 🐾
It should be a sealed unit.... no oil means no seals.
Our 015 was very similar, seals went, filled itself with fine topsoil and mixed with hydraulic oil being pushed out of the motor seals... would arguably of kept going, but sometimes better to sort it.
Furniss
Well-known member
I will keep checking it between jobs like I say the other unit is staying on the shelf.
like I say the other unit is staying on the shelf.Footer block 1