So Heatpumps

[DaveDCB]

I reprogrammed all our stats 1degree lower than the Mrs had set, she’s hasn’t noticed yet

 

[Smiffy]

You lot have it all wrong.

We love in an ex council terrace with OAP's each side. Really efficient way of heating your house. Virtually no input required

 

[V8Druid]

yeah i know right, i feel the cold with my back i suppose, i personally am happy enoguh at 18-19 and wood burner but i have kids and all that. In our old house we ran the heating twice a day to 21 and the inbetween was set to 18 and very rarely kicked in

Pam'd have fans on everywhere if we ran at 21C ... does regularly of an evening when wood burner is ticking over and she's complaining about melting ..... set at 14C overnight and can be chilly first thing ... quite remarkable the difference those 3 degrees make

 

[DaveDCB]

I can only have log burner going if it’s 10 and below outside, otherwise inside is far too hot!

 

[fred]

yeah every room is zoned and we have god knows how must insulation, tripple glazing etc.

i really dont know how to use it is my issue, currently i am letting it drop down to say 17 degrees which is to cold as we want it to 21 in the evenings.

im going to change it to minimum in each room of 19.5 and to peak at 21.5 during times at home.

is it heat pump or boiler ?

 

[Stroppymonkey]

so we have just moved into our A rated for effiency house with airsource heatpumps and full underfloor heating.

its a learning curve so far but it isnt very efficent. or doesnt feel it, i need to understand some parts of our use but the old house was a average or 30kw a day i think, the other day at the new place it pulled 130kw, average about 80 kw a day so 50kw going on heat.

i think i have the temps set to cold and then wanting to get it to warm so going to change the thermostats today to work out

If you are using 230v stats to control an ASHP you’ve already identified part of the problem. ASHP should (ideally) be on a big open loop with the correct supplied controller operating as a load compensator in conjunction with the external sensor . Using 3rd party controls is undesirable and will usually harm your SCOP

 

[Regy53]

is it heat pump or boiler ?

Hear pump

 

[Regy53]

If you are using 230v stats to control an ASHP you’ve already identified part of the problem. ASHP should (ideally) be on a big open loop with the correct supplied controller operating as a load compensator in conjunction with the external sensor . Using 3rd party controls is undesirable and will usually harm your SCOP

That probably is it . Again will look at it there not smart controls likely a load of shite also a few years old

 

[Stroppymonkey]

That probably is it . Again will look at it there not smart controls likely a load of shite also a few years old

You don’t want smart contols-you want something that works with/talks to the heat pump

 

[bobthebuilder]

You don’t want smart contols-you want something that works with/talks to the heat pump

keep it simple ,

 

[Giles]

as i say i need to look at it in more detail, this morning the heating wasnt on when i got up and it was about 19 degrees in house but it felt a cold 19 degrees if that makes sense so going to need a morning blast . It must be pretty air tight a house given its rating and all that but its a huge old space at about 4000 sq ft.

19 is our heating on temp lol and we’re spending £500 a month in gas and electric lol but 1936 house with not enough insulation yet

 

[diggerjones]

19 is our heating on temp lol and we’re spending £500 a month in gas and electric lol but 1936 house with not enough insulation yet

Wow 500 a month. Ours is about 1000 litres of oil (£600-£700) a year and £130 a Month on electricity. Wood burner on most nights in winter

 

[Regy53]

19 is our heating on temp lol and we’re spending £500 a month in gas and electric lol but 1936 house with not enough insulation yet

I mean this place is 1930s too. And should do less than that but it shouldn’t be so complicated, once I have my pc setup il look more into understanding the system . We have 26 410w solar, Tesla battery’s and air source heat pump with underfloor heating throughout in likely trying to cool it down to much , and not letting it just simmer .

The temp set in here of 22 feels more like 18 at my old house so going to need to understand that too

 

[DaveDCB]

@Regy53 check on your stats they haven’t a calibration setting, on ours you can alter the screen temp so it shows higher/lower than the air temp.. yours could be set afew degrees higher? Because 22degress is a hot room!
I like our UfH zoned, works well when going between tile and carpet for example as the carpet rooms feel a lot hotter thus don’t need so much runtime. Also utility/kitchen have no need to get as warm if ran at all.

I’m 6 months in on this current house and still fiddle with the heating settings weekly!!

 

[V8Druid]

Wow 500 a month. Ours is about 1000 litres of oil (£600-£700) a year and £130 a Month on electricity. Wood burner on most nights in winter

wow indeed ..... leccy is £110-120/m and kero is circa 8-9lt a day, this time of year ... much less in the summer .. cook electric ... annual kero is up a bit from yours at prob.s 1250-1300lts over the full year. .. barn is late 1600,s

 

[fred]

definitely get all the actuators on the UFH manifold removed so it can be run unzoned. Best not to use a room stat and just use weather comp for daytime and fall back (turn off) at night-time as long as your heatloss isnt too massive.

You want to keep dropping the curve (reducing temp) until you find a point where the house is comfortable and then just forget about it anmd leave it alone. if you have some solar have a look at the myenergy eddi device for hot water.

Insulation, cold bridging and air tighness makes or breaks ASHP installs.

 

[fred]

I mean this place is 1930s too. And should do less than that but it shouldn’t be so complicated, once I have my pc setup il look more into understanding the system . We have 26 410w solar, Tesla battery’s and air source heat pump with underfloor heating throughout in likely trying to cool it down to much , and not letting it just simmer .

The temp set in here of 22 feels more like 18 at my old house so going to need to understand that too

how are the walls insulated ? Probably largest single heat loss.

Heres a free tool i use (to save paying the SAP guy £750) to put plans through, it gives a heatloss in KW which makes sizing a heatpump a doddle. It also gives you a benchmark so if your actual build is significantly worse then the quality is of the build is the issue.

ChangePlan's Free Simple Heat Loss Calculator

ChangePlan's Free Simple Heat Loss Calculator

www.changeplan.co.uk

they also have U value (SAP another fee saved) calc for free as well, handy for seeing what combination of cavity, insulation, brick etc will pass new regs.

ChangePlan's Free Simple U Value Calculator

ChangePlan's Free Simple U Value Calculator. Calculate U Values for floors, walls and roofs

www.changeplan.co.uk

For those that haven't built on new regs yet, you have to photograph specific build elements (insulation, cold bridging, window and floor junctions to name a few) and they need to be geo-tagged. If you don't hand these over to the SAP assessor you dont get an EPC or a failed EPC.

 

[fred]

19 is our heating on temp lol and we’re spending £500 a month in gas and electric lol but 1936 house with not enough insulation yet

We had same dilemma, 1899 house, solid walls. Biggest issue is making sure you dont move the dewpoint inside the house when insulation and creating damp. The dew point ideally needs to be inside the insulation so damp cannot form but is quite difficult to achieve using internal insulation alone unless its thick and has service void. Just slapping on 25mm celotex plasterboard everywhere can cause more issues than it solves.

 

[Giles]

We had same dilemma, 1899 house, solid walls. Biggest issue is making sure you dont move the dewpoint inside the house when insulation and creating damp. The dew point ideally needs to be inside the insulation so damp cannot form but is quite difficult to achieve using internal insulation alone unless its thick and has service void. Just slapping on 25mm celotex plasterboard everywhere can cause more issues than it solves.

I’ve just built a garden room that’s 150.mm celotex walls and 200mm roof and floor all taped and moisture barrier even un heated the rooms warm just having small aircon for heating and cool

 

[bobthebuilder]

wow indeed ..... leccy is £110-120/m and kero is circa 8-9lt a day, this time of year ... much less in the summer .. cook electric ... annual kero is up a bit from yours at prob.s 1250-1300lts over the full year. .. barn is late 1600,s

1800 s 4 bed house here at 750ft asl ,85 a month for leccy ,800l of lpg a year average ,10 ton of firewood