Masonry saw

[Smiffy]

So do husqvarna but there's a difference between cutting tarmac and cutting expensive paving your trying to achieve 4/5mm joints on

I would have thought they would still need to be pretty secure. Whilst tarmac and concrete cuts don't have to be as accurate, they are much longer cuts so if not held rigid you would soon find yourself A long way out by the end of the cut.

 

[GazCro]

I would have thought they would still need to be pretty secure. Whilst tarmac and concrete cuts don't have to be as accurate, they are much longer cuts so if not held rigid you would soon find yourself A long way out by the end of the cut.

Wandering a few mm either side of a tarmac cut over 20m isn't a big deal, over a 300mm paving slab its a disaster if you're trying to achieve tile joints.
If you make a frame so you're stihl saw can be utilised it would have to cut towards you so you'll also have the exhaust in ur face.

 

[Smiffy]

Wandering a few mm either side of a tarmac cut over 20m isn't a big deal, over a 300mm paving slab its a disaster if you're trying to achieve tile joints.
If you make a frame so you're stihl saw can be utilised it would have to cut towards you so you'll also have the exhaust in ur face.

But what I'm getting at is it wouldn't be a few mm either side. The twist in anti vibe would invariably lead to it going of piste in one direction and 20m could push it 100mm out. Which is then a problem.
Yes exhaust would be a problem on some saws. Just have to use a saw with side exit exhaust. Best thing would be a replacement shroud that gives you a base plate similar to a circular saw for wood.
I find I can cut pretty straight with a decent line to follow but always find the saw leaning over a touch which gives rubbish joints on thicker material

 

[GazCro]

But what I'm getting at is it wouldn't be a few mm either side. The twist in anti vibe would invariably lead to it going of piste in one direction and 20m could push it 100mm out. Which is then a problem.
Yes exhaust would be a problem on some saws. Just have to use a saw with side exit exhaust. Best thing would be a replacement shroud that gives you a base plate similar to a circular saw for wood.
I find I can cut pretty straight with a decent line to follow but always find the saw leaning over a touch which gives rubbish joints on thicker material

The trolleys you can buy for saws have a guide pin you use to follow a line just like a floor saw you have to keep them in a straight line/ heading the way you want them to. They don't help you achieve a better cut than holding the saw by hand it's just a lot nicer standing up than being hunched over.

 

[Brendan]

Found when using the bridge saws that the blade can wonder.
DeWalt d36000 is meant to be a decent saw

 

[Smiffy]

The trolleys you can buy for saws have a guide pin you use to follow a line just like a floor saw you have to keep them in a straight line/ heading the way you want them to. They don't help you achieve a better cut than holding the saw by hand it's just a lot nicer standing up than being hunched over.

I know that but if they had flex in them they constantly push one way and veer consistently off in the same direction. Waving either side of a line is fine but if it pulls in one direction then you will just end up further and further from your goal. This would be especially true of the trollies as the blade is offset so you could quite easily go cutting in circles

 

[6feetdown]

Found when using the bridge saws that the blade can wonder.
DeWalt d36000 is meant to be a decent saw

Yes heard that too. Smaller bed though

 

[Russell]

If only I had a scrap yard to play in, a rear swing arm of an old motorcycle, a cat litter tray, a fish tank pump and side stand spring would do most of it.

 

[Mikey]

Found when using the bridge saws that the blade can wonder.
DeWalt d36000 is meant to be a decent saw

Keeping the blade dressed properly does help with this but if the saws out of alignment or just crap there's not much you can do. It's why i like my Flex. As long as the guide rail is clamped properly there's nowhere else for it to go.

 

[Brendan]

Keeping the blade dressed properly does help with this but if the saws out of alignment or just crap there's not much you can do. It's why i like my Flex. As long as the guide rail is clamped properly there's nowhere else for it to go.

Found the small blades flex, not sure if an alignment issue or just how the blade attached. Was an expensive porcelain blade. Too much pressure and it would bend off slightly

 

[Mikey]

Found the small blades flex, not sure if an alignment issue or just how the blade attached. Was an expensive porcelain blade. Too much pressure and it would bend off slightly

Was that from the beginning or after a few cuts?

 

[Brendan]

Was that from the beginning or after a few cuts?

Pretty much from the beginning, brand new blade, and the bit of kit on hire looked brand new

 

[Giles]

I bought this tile saw for £300 from local hire shop, had pulvex make me custom blade, cuts 100mm block no problem. We use for paving, block work, block and beam floors etc, fill base with water pumps Rd runs off 16amp 110v but should be on 32amp really

 

[Mikey]

Pretty much from the beginning, brand new blade, and the bit of kit on hire looked brand new

Could be the machine not set up properly. Porcelain is a pain to cut compared to sandstone and concrete, it's just slow. Normally take two passes to cut a slab, more if it's intricate to reduce the risk of snapping.

 

[V8Druid]

I bought this tile saw for £300 from local hire shop, had pulvex make me custom blade, cuts 100mm block no problem. We use for paving, block work, block and beam floors etc, fill base with water pumps Rd runs off 16amp 110v but should be on 32amp really

like the look of that @Giles

 

[Giles]

like the look of that @Giles

Very solid, saw runs on 40mm chrome rods so no flex etc, heavy but does have 2 pull out handles each end

 

[Maxus]

I bought this tile saw for £300 from local hire shop, had pulvex make me custom blade, cuts 100mm block no problem. We use for paving, block work, block and beam floors etc, fill base with water pumps Rd runs off 16amp 110v but should be on 32amp really

I'm jealous! That's a good deal, and a bloody good saw by the looks of it. Do you ever have problems powering it off regular domestic electrical supply?

 

[Lancs Lad]

I bought this tile saw for £300 from local hire shop, had pulvex make me custom blade, cuts 100mm block no problem. We use for paving, block work, block and beam floors etc, fill base with water pumps Rd runs off 16amp 110v but should be on 32amp really

Always a few clippers etc at our local auctions.
Burnley or gateways.

32amp 5kva tranny will run off domestic ok if you use common sense

 

[V8Druid]

Always a few clippers etc at our local auctions.
Burnley or gateways.

32amp 5kva tranny will run off domestic ok if you use common sense

..... and a cooker socket , with a 6mm bar in the plug's fuse holder

 

[Giles]

I'm jealous! That's a good deal, and a bloody good saw by the looks of it. Do you ever have problems powering it off regular domestic electrical supply?

no runs fine, run it off my little 6kva generator some times as well that runs it fine, but as long as you use the box by the socket and use 110 extensions in 32amp fittings it’s fine. Not sure how it’s be on a big 13amp 240 lead

a cool project would be to find another flexvolt 302mm DEWALT chop saw like I have but broken something on it, and swap the motor so it’d be flexvolt powered