JCB 801 Valve/Spool connection advice

[Mick-the-fitter]

In your Photo (spool 3) top right of the picture the hose going into the block is p3, this hose will supply oil to your new block at P and taking a hose from T run it back to the block where you removed the original hose.

 

[JBASport]

Thanks for that. I take it I would obviously need to retain the blade lever just use that adjacent void to mount the spool. Thanks, Terry

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

Yes apart from the new hoses and valve, leave everything as it was, with blanks fitted to stop leaks.

 

[JBASport]

Thanks Mick, I have attached a picture as this is what I think you are meaning? Appreciate your help & patience! Terry

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

Yes, you are just putting the new block in the supply line then the will carry on to where it was going, it has its own relief valve so no probs if you dead end anything.

 

[JBASport]

Thanks for that Mick. Once again, appreciate all your help.

Terry

 

[JBASport]

I have received the twin spool valve and will look to fit on to the JCB 801. However I am not totally sure what hoses I need to get made up. The ports on the new spool are Main Ports 1/2" BSP -P.T & 3/8" -A.B. Not sure if I have to fit male adapters in the ports & what the P.T & A.B means. Also what connections will be on the existing spool that the new hoses will fit into and respective blanks to plug the redundant connections. I get confused by the different options of fittings available. As you can tell I am at the limit of my knowledge! A sketch would really help if possible. Thanks again.

 

[Mogman]

I have received the twin spool valve and will look to fit on to the JCB 801. However I am not totally sure what hoses I need to get made up. The ports on the new spool are Main Ports 1/2" BSP -P.T & 3/8" -A.B. Not sure if I have to fit male adapters in the ports & what the P.T & A.B means. Also what connections will be on the existing spool that the new hoses will fit into and respective blanks to plug the redundant connections. I get confused by the different options of fittings available. As you can tell I am at the limit of my knowledge! A sketch would really help if possible. Thanks again.

P= pump
T= tank / return
A+B are the outlets, ie to each side of the ram

 

[V8Druid]

and in your case @JBASport ... connect the feed into you original valve block, to the P on the new valve and the T, from the new one, back into the P (feed you took off the original block) to return the flow/(feed) to the rest of the services in the original block - you are essentially diverting the flow from your pumps through the new valve, to enable you to 'syphon off' flow to your new A,s and B,s to power the slew/boom swing functions, then returning that flow to the original block.
don't forget to cap off the original A/B ports on the original block, when you connect them to the new valve blocks A/B outlets

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

Correct it’s just a case of where you site the new valve and how you adapt it to operate it!

 

[JBASport]

Thanks all. Appreciate your help.
Terry

 

[JBASport]

Hi, I have found a way to fit the new spool valve (see picture) I know have to find connections & fit new hoses, It looks as though it might help if I could remove the side panel (pictured). Is that be possible and would it help to fit the new hoses? Thanks again for your help. Terry

 

[V8Druid]

Hi, I have found a way to fit the new spool valve (see picture) I know have to find connections & fit new hoses, It looks as though it might help if I could remove the side panel (pictured). Is that be possible and would it help to fit the new hoses? Thanks again for your help. Terry

you do realise that these ports are either / or ... plug whatever you don't use

I'd crank the top lever upwards, so the lower one is easier to use

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

I see, that’s interesting! There are two available in and out ports, I don’t think all valves are machined like this!
Which panel Terry? If it’s the larger one with the JCB801 on it that is I think the hydraulic oil tank.

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

You can fit all the hoses to the block as it is facing us in the picture, top A, bottom B and the four service lines, don’t need to use the two end plugs, leave them done up.

 

[JBASport]

I never realised the ports where either/or, that really helps as I had thought I need to use the vertical ports! Great help. Yes, I reckon cranking the lever a bit will help in operating. Ok regarding the panel, I had hoped I could have accessed the slew connections from there, which would have made it easier to make up new hoses, rather than connect to the existing ones, which will look a bit awkward. Thanks again. Terry

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

I see, take the original hoses to the slew motor and off set ram off the block and get some short hose extensions made, it could be made quite neat.

 

[V8Druid]

banjos are your friends for plumbing that

long swept elbow

banjo at 2, with a 30 deg long swept union on other end 2A .. long swept 90 union at 4 and long swept 30 deg union at 4B and blank off the existing 2A and 4B hose tails ... or remove them and blank them at the original valve block IF you can get at them
when having your hoses made bear in mind it is possible to turn the fitting in the crimp when new (and TBH for some time after) to get exact orientation right
fit 2A first, then spin the banjo to suit 2
fit 4B next and then 4 over the top of the banjo at 2 .... the union at 4 will spin in the hose easy enough .. grip the ferrule and spin the fitting tail into alignment .

 

[V8Druid]

I'd banjo P and T too TBH ... keep it neat

 

[V8Druid]

few banjos in a couple of tight spots and a short swept 45 elbow

banjos and 90 swept elbows ... with that 45 short swept elbow showing too