V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
think Vin said he replaced it MickIs the suction strainer clean?
think Vin said he replaced it MickIs the suction strainer clean?
Oh ok flip through missed that bit, remove the breather?think Vin said he replaced it Mick
pressure gauge'd be a start, tee-ed into a return before the filter (or even the return from the sticks)Do you have flow gauges available to you?
It’s brand new MickIs the suction strainer clean?
No but I can get hold off a fitter who does and ask him to check pressures or if I can get a bit of guidance of what to get I’d happily buy them myself !Do you have flow gauges available to you?
If it had a bypass should it not off kicked in before the filter imploded ?can't see a faulty by pass having much to do with the issue as the filter is brand new, so the by-pass shouldn't operate .... but worth a look ... the bypass should never operate, until the filter blocks, or no point in having the return filter
That’s my thoughts on it too…. Thus the thinking a faulty bypass?If it had a bypass should it not off kicked in before the filter imploded ?
if you are getting massive flow from the pump it's possible the by pass orifice is insufficient to cope, pressure has built up, due to the restriction and it has collapsed the filter, to provide greater flow, taking the route of least resistance created by the filter collapse ....If it had a bypass should it not off kicked in before the filter imploded ?
exactly what I'm saying and with the bypass's limited orifice causing a restriction, pressure is building in the return circuit and the filter being the weakest link lets goI was going to suggest you plum a flow gauge into the hammer supply and return it into hammer return, yes the bypass cold be blocked, but also delivery could be too great at low revs. Pics of tank returns from boom or valve block.
It doesn’t have a hammer circuit MickI was going to suggest you plum a flow gauge into the hammer supply and return it into hammer return, yes the bypass cold be blocked, but also delivery could be too great at low revs. Pics of tank returns from boom or valve block.
I’d bet money that the pumps good as I had it reconditioned by a really too outfit less than 1k hours ago . I know that’s no guarantee but does make me think it’s ok . I’m open to all suggestions though . What I know need is a “how to “ to test all these options .if you are getting massive flow from the pump it's possible the by pass orifice is insufficient to cope, pressure has built up, due to the restriction and it has collapsed the filter, to provide greater flow, taking the route of least resistance created by the filter collapse ....
I'm pretty sure that you have a swash plate not throttling down to idle and pushing huge volumes of oil through the return ... with load sense as soon as the load drops the swash plate reduces to minimal flow(/pressure) - the pistons in the pump essentially open up and the swash plate goes 'flat' ... not gonna bet my left nut, quite yet, but close to it that the pump is not returning to an idle / off load state
This makes sense but how would that make the levers solid ? It does have a separate pilot pump attached to the end of the main Kawasaki pumpsexactly what I'm saying and with the bypass's limited orifice causing a restriction, pressure is building in the return circuit and the filter being the weakest link lets go
no CLRV in the lines then MickYep added a case drain to flail motor once where someone had blanked it, work fine flat out hedge cutting, til letting go! It pushed the filter through a tiny hole in comparison into the tank. Only two filters later did I get the job![]()
if it's making more pressure than the circa 35bar, in the servo circuit and both circuits have a return to tank through the filter, the pressure from the main pump would overcome the T line from the servo circuit and back pressure the system to the sticks ... trying to operate the sticks is opening a valve, but both sides of the valve have pressure so will effectively keep the valve shut as the oil from P to T has no where to go as both lines are PThis makes sense but how would that make the levers solid ? It does have a separate pilot pump attached to the end of the main Kawasaki pumps
not so much a faulty pump as the load sensing control of the pump Vin that controls the angle of the swash plateI’d bet money that the pumps good as I had it reconditioned by a really too outfit less than 1k hours ago . I know that’s no guarantee but does make me think it’s ok . I’m open to all suggestions though . What I know need is a “how to “ to test all these options .