M
Mikey
Member
Hi, I'm a landscaper, have a 2006 Takeuchi TB108, some experience with fixing stuff but looking for advice from more experienced people.
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
WTF are you hoping for here then
Welcome boyo .... seriously you'm in the right place .......................... i think
M
Mikey
Member
I hope so. I've messed with engines before but never hydraulics. I have the workshop manual but i'm guessing thats intended for an experienced technician.
M
Maxus
Well-known member
I've heard the older takeuchi's are pretty bullet proof, have you had the machine long? How are you finding in?
TiltyShaun
Well-known member
I had never messed with hydraulics before but they are much simpler than engines. Basically, if the engine goes round and round, hopefully the pump goes round and round and pressures the system. The little valves open and close to make the rams go in and out!! That in a nutshell is how simple they are!! The only unfortunate thing is how complicated it gets with deadman switches, proportional valves and other things that smarter members on the forum will now far more about than me!!
But welcome and I am sure if you post your problem you will receive some relevant advice!!
JD450A
Feral as Fk 🐾
Tb108's are easy.
GazCro
Well-known member
Unless there's already something wrong with it I wouldn't worry about it. Grease it change oil and filters now again and use it. You won't get any simpler than a 108.
M
Mikey
Member
I've had it at least ten years, only done around 350 hours in that time. It hasn't really moved for the last 3 years due to the jobs I've taken on apart from moving it out the way. I have some work for it planned in the near future so was going over it last week. It's quite sloppy in the arm, and I'm concerned about the slew bearing.
Engine is fine, starts easily and sounds great, definitely need to service it though.
As it was paid for years ago I'm happy to spend some money on it, especially with what a new or second hand one costs. Better the devil you know. Just how much I need to spend I have no idea.
Engine is fine, starts easily and sounds great, definitely need to service it though.
As it was paid for years ago I'm happy to spend some money on it, especially with what a new or second hand one costs. Better the devil you know. Just how much I need to spend I have no idea.
Bri963
Well-known member
There speaks someone who’s never opened up a Cat Hystat system.I had never messed with hydraulics before but they are much simpler than engines.
M
Mikey
Member
The first thing I'm wondering is what happens when I take a hose off a ram. Is fluid going to spurt everywhere, do I need to do anything before I remove the hose, and what to do about fitting it back?. I think I need to take the whole arm off to see what the king post is like before I order any parts. Going off the manual the boom is only 33kg so not that heavy once everything is off it.
craig
Well-known member
Whatever the ram is attached to needs to be secured not to move, ideally on the ground, and de-pressurized before removing hoses.
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
as said, rest the heavy bits on the floor ....
turn the engine off, turn the ignition back on, drop the dead man and depressurise all systems by operating the motions without the engine running ..
it will drop any pressure out of the lines, so that when you crack off any connections there's no pressure to speak of behind the unions.....
you're going to get some leakage, just prepare to catch/contain the escaping oil as much as you can - either plug the ends of the pipes with tapered hose plugs or buy some blank end caps (better option for keeping tish out and oil in) ...
the rest is just mechanical engineering, stripping the physical bits and replacing as needed ....
re-assembly is the reverse ...
any air'll self bleed when powered up again - usually
top up any shortfall in the tank with all rams closed as much as poss. , (boom / dipper stretched out bucket ram closed) ........
and dig
turn the engine off, turn the ignition back on, drop the dead man and depressurise all systems by operating the motions without the engine running ..
it will drop any pressure out of the lines, so that when you crack off any connections there's no pressure to speak of behind the unions.....
you're going to get some leakage, just prepare to catch/contain the escaping oil as much as you can - either plug the ends of the pipes with tapered hose plugs or buy some blank end caps (better option for keeping tish out and oil in) ...
the rest is just mechanical engineering, stripping the physical bits and replacing as needed ....
re-assembly is the reverse ...
any air'll self bleed when powered up again - usually
top up any shortfall in the tank with all rams closed as much as poss. , (boom / dipper stretched out bucket ram closed) ........
and dig
Gecko
Well-known member
350 hours isn't much, but ten years is enough. If you can't remember when (if) the hydraulic fluid was replaced, I'd take the opportunity while you are draining many of the awkward bits.
A quick search says the '108 only holds 16l, so not a huge investment.
A quick search says the '108 only holds 16l, so not a huge investment.
M
Mikey
Member
Could you expand on what would be involved with draining the system? Do I need to empty all the hoses as well? I'm concerned about the pump and other bits running dry and something breaking.
When I've looked online for hydraulic oil change all I've found so far is to close all the rams, drain the tank, fill back up, work the rams to bleed air and then top up if necessary. Surely this will leave loads of old oil in the system. Whether that's an issue or not I don't know.
Really appreciate everyone's advice, feeling much better about the challenge now.
Gecko
Well-known member
I've no experience with your machine, but as you guessed, a fair amount of oil can remain in the lines/cylinders which is why I though it might be a good opportunity if you are stripping it down to get to the kingpin, you are doing the hard work and can drain the cylinders at the same time.
As for whether it's an issue, it really depends what condition your old oil is in. If it looks good and smells good, then do what you can, but don't get too hung up on it. If it's black, white or smells really bad, do your best to get as much out as possible.
As for the pump, there is a big difference between "dry" from being new/rebuilt and "dry" from an oil change.
If it's still wet inside (unless the manual has a warning), then the few seconds to re-prime will be fine.
As for whether it's an issue, it really depends what condition your old oil is in. If it looks good and smells good, then do what you can, but don't get too hung up on it. If it's black, white or smells really bad, do your best to get as much out as possible.
As for the pump, there is a big difference between "dry" from being new/rebuilt and "dry" from an oil change.
If it's still wet inside (unless the manual has a warning), then the few seconds to re-prime will be fine.
GazCro
Well-known member
If you start trying to drain rams and pipes etc you will end up risking running pump dry and other problems. Close rams asx best you can drain tank, change filter refill tank start up circulate oil round system and check level and top up if needed. If you are really bothered about condition of oil that came out change it again. Tbh for the amount of oil left in the system i wouldn't worry.
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
unless it looks like whipping cream
M
Mikey
Member
I do like whipping cream, especially with a scone and cherry jam.....mmmh.
I'll look in the tank tomorrow, might give an idea I guess.
Spoke to a few places today to get prices on pins and bushes. Giving the machine a good clean tomorrow before I start taking anything off.
I'll look in the tank tomorrow, might give an idea I guess.
Spoke to a few places today to get prices on pins and bushes. Giving the machine a good clean tomorrow before I start taking anything off.
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Mick-the-fitter
It’s what I do!
The only time I would drain all rams and hoses would be to clean it for contamination, it takes a while, if you close all the rams and drain the tank you would get probably 60% of the old oil out of the system, then refill with new oil,
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