Extra-dig wear strips on a Project 8 3CX

[Left hooker]

Makes me wonder why Mr. Bamford's men didn't do it like this in the 1st place.

They did but rounded off if f****ng tight
They use bolts with a half lock nut

 

[Left hooker]

Should be metal shims that go between the lower wear pads and where they sit and the that allows adjuster bolts to push against that rather than puncture the plastic of wear strips

 

[V8Druid]

Done the wear strips with out removing the extender
Remove adjuster bolts
Take out top ones by undoing bolts that hold them in lift arm so not on ground remove lower top ones then push bucket/hitch/ extender end on ground and fish out the bottom lower ones
To put back just do it in reverse

diagram shows an inner set too though Stu

 

[Gecko]

Makes me wonder why Mr. Bamford's men didn't do it like this in the 1st place.

I think the washer(/shim) technique is elegant in its simplicity.
It takes almost no skill at all to remove a bolt, remove a washer and tighten the bolt. And it results in perfect alignment and the longest pad life.
Using locknuts gives much finer adjustment, but requires more skill to adjust correctly.

 

[Scraperman]

Done the wear strips with out removing the extender
Remove adjuster bolts

That sounds like a lot less hassle, let me see if I've got it right. You take out all the top wear pads and using the boom ram lift the end of the dipper off the ground which presumably allows the end of the extender nearest to the cab to lift sufficiently to get the bottom wear pads that are nearest to the cab out ? Is it better if the extender is extended at all when this is done ? Then when you've got them out you rest the end of the dipper on the ground which then anables you to get the bottom wear pads out that are nearest the bucket ? Presumably you need to get all bottom pads out before you can start to fit any replacements for the bottom wear pads ? How are the bottom wear pads secured ? Is there some kind of arrangement that holds them in place. The tigtening bolts only push against them I presume ? And when you've done all that you can then slide the top wear pads in, again by lifting and lowering the boom ram so as to give some clearance at each end of the extender ? When sliding the top pads in you have to fiddle with the bolts that secure them until you can get the threads started and subsequently tightened ?

I'll have to investigate all that but it certainly sounds easier. Thank you.

 

[Scraperman]

Should be metal shims that go between the lower wear pads and where they sit and the that allows adjuster bolts to push against that rather than puncture the plastic of wear strips

Do you get these shims when you buy the new wear pad kits ? Or do you have to make sure that you don't lose any of the original ones when dismantling ?

 

[Scraperman]

I think the washer(/shim) technique is elegant in its simplicity.
It takes almost no skill at all to remove a bolt, remove a washer and tighten the bolt. And it results in perfect alignment and the longest pad life.
Using locknuts gives much finer adjustment, but requires more skill to adjust correctly.

All very true but as I wrote earlier, one of mine did come undone.

 

[Scraperman]

They use bolts with a half lock nut

What's a "half lock nut" ? Presumably a nut that is only half the length of a normal nut ? At least a nut of this size wouldn't take much splitting with a cold chisel if it got a bit tight.

 

[Gecko]

Do you get these shims when you buy the new wear pad kits ? Or do you have to make sure that you don't lose any of the original ones when dismantling ?

Not sure if you buy genuine, but non-OEM kits are available with and without the backing plates.
I've seen the backing plates in Al and StSt (I went for StSt).

Several of my blocks were missing, as were a couple of the backing plates, so I didn't have an option.
Once they were delivered, it was obvious I could have cut them myself.

 

[V8Druid]

What's a "half lock nut" ? Presumably a nut that is only half the length of a normal nut ? At least a nut of this size wouldn't take much splitting with a cold chisel if it got a bit tight.

....... put some half nut lock nuts on them...
much less faff to adjust ... pinch up the wear pad adjustment and back the bolts off 1/2 a turn, then lock off with the half nuts

Pardon our interruption...

View attachment 39293

 

[Scraperman]

personally I'd go for some 3/4 UNF set screws and add say 6mm(1/4") on the length you spec.ed .... put some half nut lock nuts on them...
much less faff to adjust ... pinch up the wear pad adjustment and back the bolts off 1/2 a turn, then lock off with the half nuts

Ooops. Sorry, I had seen this before but just didn't think ! My bad !

 

[Scraperman]

Not sure if you buy genuine, but non-OEM kits are available with and without the backing plates.
I've seen the backing plates in Al and StSt (I went for StSt).

Thanks again for your help. I have found the blocks on eBay but could you elaborate on Al & StSt for me please ?

 

[Left hooker]

diagram shows an inner set too though Stu

Only 4 bolts a side so won't adjust if there were

 

[Left hooker]

Do you get these shims when you buy the new wear pad kits ? Or do you have to make sure that you don't lose any of the original ones when dismantling ?

Cant quite remember if they do or don't

 

[Left hooker]

That sounds like a lot less hassle, let me see if I've got it right. You take out all the top wear pads and using the boom ram lift the end of the dipper off the ground which presumably allows the end of the extender nearest to the cab to lift sufficiently to get the bottom wear pads that are nearest to the cab out ? Is it better if the extender is extended at all when this is done ? Then when you've got them out you rest the end of the dipper on the ground which then anables you to get the bottom wear pads out that are nearest the bucket ? Presumably you need to get all bottom pads out before you can start to fit any replacements for the bottom wear pads ? How are the bottom wear pads secured ? Is there some kind of arrangement that holds them in place. The tigtening bolts only push against them I presume ? And when you've done all that you can then slide the top wear pads in, again by lifting and lowering the boom ram so as to give some clearance at each end of the extender ? When sliding the top pads in you have to fiddle with the bolts that secure them until you can get the threads started and subsequently tightened ?

I'll have to investigate all that but it certainly sounds easier. Thank you.

Basically everything you have said
Lower pads that adjust have a metal bits welded on the inside of dipper arm they locate in to hold them in place

 

[Gecko]

Cant quite remember if they do or don't

With Without

Thanks again for your help. I have found the blocks on eBay but could you elaborate on Al & StSt for me please ?

Aluminum or Stainless steel
Probably either is fine, but stainless seemed the better choice to me.

Basically everything you have said
Lower pads that adjust have a metal bits welded on the inside of dipper arm they locate in to hold them in place

Sounds very posh - mine were loose.

JCB Set of wearpads telescope + metal washers - 3CX 4CX

Set of teflon skids for the extension of the rear arm on the JCB 3CX and 4CX backhoe loaders. The kit includes: Lower four: 123/03215 Top four: 123/06189 Additionally, the set includes four sheet metal washers for the lower slides (trapezoidal) - 331/30894

hcparts.eu

 

[Scraperman]

Basically everything you have said
Lower pads that adjust have a metal bits welded on the inside of dipper arm they locate in to hold them in place

Thought so. Thanks for that.

 

[Scraperman]

Aluminum or Stainless steel
Probably either is fine, but stainless seemed the better choice to me.

Ah yes. Sorry, I thought the reference was to a supplier. And StSt seems a better bet to me as well. Could you give me an idea as to how thick they are ?

EDIT. Just clicked your link and they are no longer in stock !

 

[Gecko]

Ah yes. Sorry, I thought the reference was to a supplier. And StSt seems a better bet to me as well. Could you give me an idea as to how thick they are ?

EDIT. Just clicked your link and they are no longer in stock !

Oh - neither they are. They do have the individual pieces though.
That's ok, there are plenty of suppliers in the UK

TOP WEAR PAD FOR VARIOUS JCB MODELS (PART NO. 123/06189)

TOP WEAR PAD FOR VARIOUS JCB MODELS JCB PART NO. 123/06189 IF YOU ARE UNSURE & WANT TO CHECK SUITABILITY OF THIS PART FOR YOUR MACHINE PLEASE PROVIDE YOUR JCB MACHINE SERIAL NUMBER (VIN) BY CALL,EMAIL OR CHAT NOW IF YOU HAVEN’T CHECKED SUITABILITY OF THIS PART FOR YOUR JCB MACHINE BEFORE...

abelparts.co.uk

WEARPAD -TOP JCB Part No. 123/06189

WEARPAD -TOP JCB Part No. 123/06189 If you would like us to check this is the right part for your machine please contact us with your serial number using the form below or give us a call on 01858 880219. Out of stock? Don't worry just hit the back order button and we'll get it to you ASAP. A...

vicaryplant.com

(I'm only allowed two links)
plus ebay of course.

From memory the metal backing strips are about 0.8mm thick, but you could easily go much thicker if that's what you've got.
Your existing strips may be fine for reuse too.

 

[Left hooker]

With Without
View attachment 39336View attachment 39338



Aluminum or Stainless steel
Probably either is fine, but stainless seemed the better choice to me.


Sounds very posh - mine were loose.

JCB Set of wearpads telescope + metal washers - 3CX 4CX

Set of teflon skids for the extension of the rear arm on the JCB 3CX and 4CX backhoe loaders. The kit includes: Lower four: 123/03215 Top four: 123/06189 Additionally, the set includes four sheet metal washers for the lower slides (trapezoidal) - 331/30894

hcparts.eu

Shown in top pic