DIY workshop tools: the workbench

V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
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#21
guys pull out the heavy artillery, let's make the kids see who has the biggest pea, apart from the jokes the equipment I had to renew, I also had the tools of my grandfather blacksmith and my mechanical uncle, I had benches with clamps and table shears hammers and hammers of every type and weight. The complete mechanic equipment, the lathes and a large drill, the saw to cut the metals a milling machine too. I'm trying to start over from the little that is left and saved, I hope I'll take it, let me see your equipment courage ... let's save the salvable ....

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anvil stander View attachment 4877


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https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/anvil-stand-wooden-poll.1590593/
you have my sympathies ... tools are expensive and you can never have enough :rolleyes: ...... having gone from a full engineering and fabrication shop facilities, for most of my life, back to 'basic' hand tools and little else, really, :( I do know where you are coming from :cry:(y)

see you got your gantry arm built and fitted .. looks good Boyo (y)
I do like that anvil block too :cool:
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but when me big oak tree comes down shortly, I'm hoping for a decent block out of that, for mine ;)

good selection here .....:)
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barracane

barracane

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#22
Qualche utente amico ha altri preziosi suggerimenti? Dovrei fare una fucina di gas con una grande stufa. grazie a tutti per la vostra collaborazione
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V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
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#23
Some friend user has other valuable suggestions? I should make a forge of gas with a big stove. thank you all for your cooperation View attachment 4902
well you won't break that any day soon :oops: ..... what capacity are the castors ? :unsure:

Ceramic chip forges are the easiest to use for sure and quick .... making one is do-able I suppose but they're not that expensive to pick up s/hand usually
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/gas-flam...h=item56c012ccbf:g:JQAAAOSwfBlcWAwr:rk:1:pf:0
{this is very close to you @mart1602 and bloody cheap }
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I have one of this model ....... not dear at this price
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DS130-Ce...h=item41f88286b9:g:s9kAAOSwyeNcQFTw:rk:3:pf:0
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the ceramic chips are the dearest part of these and need to keep a careful eye on whatever you have in there ... melting it is just going to knacker your chips :cry:
 
barracane

barracane

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#24
Ho portato me stesso la gru un portale con il consiglio dei più esperti, il raggio della traversa è una ipo 180 mm lunga 180 mm che dovrebbe ipoteticamente sostenere un carico centrale di 2500 kg, sono alti 3 metri e sono di acciaio scatolato 80 x 80 x 3 mm di spessore, penso che si sostenga carico di punta di 4000 kg se ricordo bene i travi di base sempre ipe 180, a cui ho saldato le gambe, le ruote ad alta capacità sono di 200 kg ciascuna, nella mia parte non si può trovare più resistenti, tranne il carico delle ruote per il calcolo deve essere diviso tre ruote non quattro si assume una ruota, la gru è una brutta estetica ingombrante e pesante da spostare, ma si è rivelata utile per alcuni lavori , ho speso circa 1000 € uro di materiale ma ho risparmiato un sacco di soldi per una gru e un carrello elevatore, se avessi qualche idea per migliorarlo, ti invito a scrivere grazie

http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10869
gantry crane.jpg
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
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#25
I brought the crane myself a portal with the advice of the most experienced, the radius of the crosspiece is a 180 mm long 180 mm hypothetically supposed to support a central load of 2500 kg, are 3 meters high and are boxed steel 80 x 80 x 3 mm thick, I think it will support peak load of 4000 kg if I remember well the base beams always ipe 180, to which I welded the legs, the high capacity wheels are 200 kg each, in my part is not can find more resistant, except the load of the wheels for the calculation must be divided three wheels not four assumes a wheel, the crane is an ugly cumbersome and heavy aesthetic to move, but proved useful for some work, I spent about 1000 € uro material but I saved a lot of money for a crane and a forklift, if I had any idea to improve it, I invite you to write thanks

http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10869
View attachment 4907
to overcome the restrictions the 200kg castors place on your gantry, :( you could make some screw jacks, for the corners, to take the load directly off the castors and transfer the loading directly to the floor.(y)
you are quite right that, unless on a perfectly even, flat floor, the loading is not shared equally, by all four castors :( .... in fact it may be shared by as little as two castors, so some jacks would overcome this limitation ... as long as you do not need to move the gantry, loaded;)

as far as materials are concerned .... sounds fine, aside from the fact that you were ripped off on the cost :mad: .... sounds a lot of money for what you bought :(:unsure:
 
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barracane

barracane

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#26
Ho comprato tutto con 1000 euro, le travi, le ruote del carrello e il paranco da 2000 kg, buona idea delle viti che reggono il cavalletto del portale, qualche amico ha realizzato una gru a portale per migliorare la mia? grazie, per spostarlo devo usare una barra d'acciaio come leva per facilitare le manovre del movimento il pavimento è vecchio e irregolare nel cemento e la rete metallica annegata all'interno del getto di cemento
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V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
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#27
I bought everything with 1000 euro, the beams, the wheels of the cart and the 2000 kg hoist, good idea of the screws that support the gantry of the portal, some friend has made a portal crane to improve mine? thanks, to move it I have to use a steel bar as a lever to facilitate movement maneuvers the floor is old and uneven in the cement and the wire mesh drowned inside the concrete cast View attachment 4908 View attachment 4909 View attachment 4910 View attachment 4911 View attachment 4912 View attachment 4913 View attachment 4914 View attachment 4915
1000 euros doesn't seem so bad for everything required ;) (y)
why did you feel the need for all the extra cross bracing ? decreases your available height of lift significantly :(
very few wheeled gantries move easily even on a good smooth floor :rolleyes:

that boat is quite a lift ..... but castors and grass do not mix :(
I like his plumb line for checking upright, for stability :);)
 
barracane

barracane

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#28
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during the lift I felt creak, I was afraid that the welding would break, how would you have done? aesthetically it is very ugly, I use it as a shelf I put the wooden planks and use it as a rudimentary scaffolding, I support the ladder to perform maintenance work in the depot that is about five meters high, support the tables in the parallel side bars
 
doobin

doobin

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#29
Well I've taken on board the advice on this thread, here's my recent attempt. The frame was constructed from scaffold- quick, easy to set right and very cheap. Also always worth £1/foot- better than money in the bank! Same goes for a 2mx1m sheet of 20mm plate, which is what I ordered for the top.

2019-02-16 06.52.28.jpg 2019-02-16 07.15.25.jpg 2019-02-16 07.15.32.jpg
I will add mounts for the front legs at a later date- only had 4 in the stillage. The top sits on the top of the wrapover clamp, and I tapped some featheredge boards to fill the little gaps left and damp it down a bit.

Got the plate into position with the forklift and grabbed a few scaffold offcuts

2019-02-16 07.26.29.jpg 2019-02-16 07.29.35.jpg

Ably assisted by the E10, as it would fit through the door!

Rolled it towards the frame
2019-02-16 07.38.42.jpg

Set up for the lift, giving the E10 as much of the sheet as she could handle.

2019-02-16 07.55.21.jpg

Called a steroid freak of a mate, and he and my guy took one end whilst I piloted the E10. No photos as we were all a bit busy.

Wiped it down, rounded the front corners off a touch and gave it a careful run over with a 200mm stripping disc- the type with nylon impgregnated polywire.

2019-02-16 08.20.35.jpg
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Note the 100mm overlap- thanks @V8Druid

Now to fill and paint the wall behind then mount the vice. I think it's heavy enough to stay put as it is, we shall see. All component parts come apart easily if I move yards or sell up. Money in the bank(y) Always gotta think like that when you're in a rented place- same with the cabinets.
 
Quattromike

Quattromike

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#30
Well I've taken on board the advice on this thread, here's my recent attempt. The frame was constructed from scaffold- quick, easy to set right and very cheap. Also always worth £1/foot- better than money in the bank! Same goes for a 2mx1m sheet of 20mm plate, which is what I ordered for the top.

View attachment 5049 View attachment 5050 View attachment 5051
I will add mounts for the front legs at a later date- only had 4 in the stillage. The top sits on the top of the wrapover clamp, and I tapped some featheredge boards to fill the little gaps left and damp it down a bit.

Got the plate into position with the forklift and grabbed a few scaffold offcuts

View attachment 5053 View attachment 5054

Ably assisted by the E10, as it would fit through the door!

Rolled it towards the frame
View attachment 5055

Set up for the lift, giving the E10 as much of the sheet as she could handle.

View attachment 5056

Called a steroid freak of a mate, and he and my guy took one end whilst I piloted the E10. No photos as we were all a bit busy.

Wiped it down, rounded the front corners off a touch and gave it a careful run over with a 200mm stripping disc- the type with nylon impgregnated polywire.

View attachment 5057 View attachment 5059

Note the 100mm overlap- thanks @V8Druid

Now to fill and paint the wall behind then mount the vice. I think it's heavy enough to stay put as it is, we shall see. All component parts come apart easily if I move yards or sell up. Money in the bank(y) Always gotta think like that when you're in a rented place- same with the cabinets.
Looks good, I'd be tempted to put a couple of ties on the bottom of the legs and maybe a diagonal brace to keep everything square at the 11th hour (y)(y)
 
doobin

doobin

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#31
Looks good, I'd be tempted to put a couple of ties on the bottom of the legs and maybe a diagonal brace to keep everything square at the 11th hour (y)(y)

They'll get bolted to the floor when I pick up a couple more wall plates
 
doobin

doobin

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#33
Could you add a couple of tags to the plate and bolt it to the wall? Just in case it all went sideways?
The frame and two legs are all bolted to the wall and floor. The other two legs are due to be.There's no need to brace legs if they are fixed top (scaffold clamp) and bottom (wall plate fitting)

I might do as you suggest if the top tries to move under ehavy vice use.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
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#34
tha's the most over-killed computer desk I have ever seen Mr @doobin :eek: :p :LOL: ..... can't beat a good solid top on yer bench though ;)(y)

yer's gonna need a decent coaster for your tea though :giggle: ... nowt like a good bench top to sap the heat out of a cup :oops::rolleyes:
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barracane

barracane

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#39
molto ben fatto, penso che copierò l'idea, grazie per il suggerimento giusto,
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barracane

barracane

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#40
guys, excuse me if I go back to the subject. for my garage I need a small workshop crane on wheels, like the one that the mechanics use to extract the engines from the vehicles, on the 2 tons of capacity, I sold the forklift so I need a device to lift and move large loads , I have suggested a "blackhawk engine hoist, I can not find a site with these cranes could you help me thanks a friend of mine had suggested me to build it by hand with pieces of beams and a hydraulic piston what do you think?
https://www.s2forum.com/forum/technical/fabrication/56975-engine-crane-mini-size-diy


https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/t/project-engine-hoist-a-fine-addition-to-my-tools-joinami/204575


http://www.rugerindustries.com/products/ruger-floor-cranes/custom-manual-cranes/144
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https://getlink.pro/yt/home-made-crane-pick-up-25-tons-photos