Badger's Workshop

Quattromike

Quattromike

Well member-known
be careful using your 1-15/16ths drill ... that's been turned down from #4 mT ...#3MT only goes to 1-1/4" normally ... if it bites you may twist the shank off :rolleyes::oops: if your drill is man enough ;)
Also looking at that drill picture, someone’s been trying to feed you green plants of some kind 😵
 
D

Davedb

Active member
Id weld a bit of plate to the floor and the top of the corner post then put the jack at an angle from the bent corner post to the floor push it back and grind the plates off after you may need to sit your jack on a piece to box section to make it longer we put a plate on the bottom off the jack that centres on the base then weld the box to it
 
honey_badger

honey_badger

Well-known member
Thanks for the advice all -
Couple of pushes and it was back in position. Took some force though lol
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Then replaced these with something a bit more substantial I knocked up -
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Not perfect - but pretty good i reckon - Pointers/advice/criticism welcomed.
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(All those sharp edges got rounded)

30mm pin welded on the top of the tailgate.
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Old vs new. I'll take some photos of it all together when I put it back on after paints a bit drier.
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honey_badger

honey_badger

Well-known member
Been a bit busy recently, have to make a post about it soon.
Was using the digger today, dragging some brash around, and noticed something up with the QH.
One of the bolts I welded on the QH to keep the pins static has snapped and I don't know why. Maybe it got heat stressed when I was welding it on or something? Any thoughts appreciated.
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Quattromike

Quattromike

Well member-known
It does look like a gap of around 5mm there, maybe just had a little too much ensign on it. Wat was the grade of bolt used?
 
GazCro

GazCro

Well-known member
Might be no good with a nut run up both sides allowing no give.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Might be no good with a nut run up both sides allowing no give.
longer bolt required to get the two threads needed out of the lock nut .. no need for the back up nut with a nylock
 
honey_badger

honey_badger

Well-known member
deffo .... must've taken some dogging up like that :oops:
Well I think I went for wind the backstop nut flush and then compress the front one with the impact gun :whistle:
I'll give a longer bolt and be a bit more careful with the force I give it lol
 
Shovelhands

Shovelhands

Well-known member
Maybe try opening the hole out in the pin, maybe go to a bigger bolt? But try not to actually tighten on the pin, either just a nyloc on the outside or a pair of nuts nipped together on the outside. close to the pin flange but not actually hard on it. Let the pin move a tiny bit, I know it’s counterintuitive, but you’ve sort of got to, looks like you're not short of grease, so the boss shouldn’t wear, just let the pin move half a mm.
 
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honey_badger

honey_badger

Well-known member
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Got that locking pin all fixed up, however no photos again :rolleyes: checked all the other ones and slackened them off a bit too, hopefully save any other breakages.

Saw this bandsaw pop up an hour or so away, what do people think? Startrite so I think it should be pretty good?
Says 'need a clean up and service'
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
View attachment 16340

Got that locking pin all fixed up, however no photos again :rolleyes: checked all the other ones and slackened them off a bit too, hopefully save any other breakages.

Saw this bandsaw pop up an hour or so away, what do people think? Startrite so I think it should be pretty good?
Says 'need a clean up and service'
decent price for it .... check the bearings in the guide rollers ... replace-able but a faff ..... have had prob.s 7 or 8 of these over the years ... and bought one for meself about 18-ish months ago ... paid 400 quid for it plus a double pallet to get it home ...... blade size is 12' 6" x 1" ... only buy HSSs .. no bi-metal crap and unless you'm cutting big solid, go for the 6/10 vari pitch for general sections ... 4/8 is way too course .... used to get mine from Harrisons, but bought a couple locally from Selmach the other week and seem ok so far .... have dealt with them for decades, but this was the first time I'd tried their blades .... Starret are also good blades but got very dear at one time
 
honey_badger

honey_badger

Well-known member
decent price for it .... check the bearings in the guide rollers ... replace-able but a faff ..... have had prob.s 7 or 8 of these over the years ... and bought one for meself about 18-ish months ago ... paid 400 quid for it plus a double pallet to get it home ...... blade size is 12' 6" x 1" ... only buy HSSs .. no bi-metal crap and unless you'm cutting big solid, go for the 6/10 vari pitch for general sections ... 4/8 is way too course .... used to get mine from Harrisons, but bought a couple locally from Selmach the other week and seem ok so far .... have dealt with them for decades, but this was the first time I'd tried their blades .... Starret are also good blades but got very dear at one time
Went and had a look at it the other day, seems pretty good really, does need a few fixes and a bit of love, otherwise seems a fair machine. Chap was supposed to be delivering it for me on monday but has fallen through so I've got to go down there again to get it.
I took the van to get it the first time but it turns out by 'arrange loading' he means not that day :rolleyes:
Should be bringing it back tomorrow if all goes to plan
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Went and had a look at it the other day, seems pretty good really, does need a few fixes and a bit of love, otherwise seems a fair machine. Chap was supposed to be delivering it for me on monday but has fallen through so I've got to go down there again to get it.
I took the van to get it the first time but it turns out by 'arrange loading' he means not that day :rolleyes:
Should be bringing it back tomorrow if all goes to plan
yeh I see the suds pump looks to have been knocked off .. fragile bracket on them .. amazed mine was still attached .. leccy suds is the easiest solution ... sliders on the motor adjuster are a biggy for seizing and the cup drive can get pretty worn, especially if the motor pivot is stiff/seized ... had many years of good service out of the several I've owned though ... nice rigid saw and simple to keep accurate
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Went and had a look at it the other day, seems pretty good really, does need a few fixes and a bit of love, otherwise seems a fair machine. Chap was supposed to be delivering it for me on monday but has fallen through so I've got to go down there again to get it.
I took the van to get it the first time but it turns out by 'arrange loading' he means not that day :rolleyes:
Should be bringing it back tomorrow if all goes to plan
they pick up sweet as with a single sling around the bed and vice about 2" forward of the back jaw, when set square ... ideal for forking into a van on a tyne .. just floats perfectly level ;):)(y)
 
honey_badger

honey_badger

Well-known member
yeh I see the suds pump looks to have been knocked off .. fragile bracket on them .. amazed mine was still attached .. leccy suds is the easiest solution ... sliders on the motor adjuster are a biggy for seizing and the cup drive can get pretty worn, especially if the motor pivot is stiff/seized ... had many years of good service out of the several I've owned though ... nice rigid saw and simple to keep accurate
Yup the suds pump was lying on the floor with what looked like several questionable attempts at welding it back to the frame attatched to it.
When I start to get it running I'm sure you'll hear back from me about the electric suds.

You say bi metal only good for big solid, I'll have the odd solid thing to do, will hss be alright with that?
I've never even used a horizontal bandsaw before lol a big learning curve coming up
 
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