New shed

[Mogman]

You gonna wear wellies in the pit?

No ha ha dig my hole and line with visqueen? set the panels to the correct height but off the ground then flood the bottom so it comes up a few inches up the panel inside and out that should keep the damp out

 

[GazCro]

No ha ha dig my hole and line with visqueen? set the panels to the correct height but off the ground then flood the bottom so it comes up a few inches up the panel inside and out that should keep the damp out

Im intrigued as if i get round to building my shed im gonna put a pit in but I'm gonna leave one bay without conc floor and do it after. I've thought of a few ways of doing it, panels being one but i can't see how you can set them up tbh.

 

[Volbar1]

No ce marking, you made the frame on site didn't you
Only a lightweight frame, the slab you are proposing is more than enough , would like to see that lot lift off.
Last pit I built for a mate, used two layers of 1200g poly, 150mm base and built up used 6 inch solids layed flat, pump in corner, over 10 years ago, no damp

 

[Mark]

It’s easier to ask forgiveness than it is permission crack on

 

[V8Druid]

No ce marking, you made the frame on site didn't you
Only a lightweight frame, the slab you are proposing is more than enough , would like to see that lot lift off.
Last pit I built for a mate, used two layers of 1200g poly, 150mm base and built up used 6 inch solids layed flat, pump in corner, over 10 years ago, no damp

my thoughts exactly ... site fab is exempt from all this crap ...... so much easier to slab fix than ferk about with cast in fixings ... especially with a s/hand unknown quantity

 

[Mogman]

my thoughts exactly ... site fab is exempt from all this crap ...... so much easier to slab fix than ferk about with cast in fixings ... especially with a s/hand unknown quantity

I have a plan for this
I took the shed down and just burned the stactions? Off at slab level so going to trim them all neat, then going to cast steel plates 1” thick 18”x12” with a lump of girder welded to the underside to key into the concrete in the floor in the right place then weld the portals to the plates

 

[V8Druid]

I have a plan for this
I took the shed down and just burned the stactions? Off at slab level so going to trim them all neat, then going to cast steel plates 1” thick 18”x12” with a lump of girder welded to the underside to key into the concrete in the floor in the right place then weld the portals to the plates

TBH Mog I'd drill fix the buggers .... have done plenty like it and so much easier ..... makes the slab so much easier to do too .... have never lost a drill fixed one, that I know of ..... and sure i'd have heard

 

[DaveDCB]

TBH Mog I'd drill fix the buggers .... have done plenty like it and so much easier ..... makes the slab so much easier to do too .... have never lost a drill fixed one, that I know of ..... and sure i'd have heard

This is the way

 

[T whiting]

This is the way

Yes just give the holes a good clean out before you put the resin in (a airline works well)

 

[V8Druid]

Yes just give the holes a good clean out before you put the resin in (a airline works well)

and it MUST BE DRY ....... forget it if it's raining or the holes are wet

 

[Stubota86]

and it MUST BE DRY ....... forget it if it's raining or the holes are wet

have always found the R Kem one to be good for the price of it. Mind you couple summers ago when was really warm the resin repeatedly went off before could get the bars in

Had a recent job where we put some pads in for steel posts, engineer cocked up and changed the sizes of pads on drawing revision (relating to another part of the build) and didn’t even tell me. Spotted it luckily. Explained that I couldn’t change them as the posts would be pissing in the wind with weight of house above it - ended up agreeing we could use chem fix and rebar to tie them together but insisted we use Hilti top of the range stuff, cost us about £300 for resin and gun!! Hilti rep laughed at it, said the resin we were buying was way over the top and designed for industrial scale structural fixing underwater

Customer had to cough up, ignored recommendations from architect on which engineer to use originally and found this muppet on MyBuilder

 

[Smiffy]

have always found the R Kem one to be good for the price of it. Mind you couple summers ago when was really warm the resin repeatedly went off before could get the bars in

Had a recent job where we put some pads in for steel posts, engineer cocked up and changed the sizes of pads on drawing revision (relating to another part of the build) and didn’t even tell me. Spotted it luckily. Explained that I couldn’t change them as the posts would be pissing in the wind with weight of house above it - ended up agreeing we could use chem fix and rebar to tie them together but insisted we use Hilti top of the range stuff, cost us about £300 for resin and gun!! Hilti rep laughed at it, said the resin we were buying was way over the top and designed for industrial scale structural fixing underwater

Customer had to cough up, ignored recommendations from architect on which engineer to use originally and found this muppet on MyBuilder

If it's setting quick have you tried the resin in a glass vile
Drop the vile in then use one of there studs that has a point on the bottom and a hex drive on top and the vile doesn't break until you spin the stud with a drill
Probably more expensive but requires no experience to not get any waste and get the right amount in the hole every time pretty idiot proof

 

[T whiting]

have always found the R Kem one to be good for the price of it. Mind you couple summers ago when was really warm the resin repeatedly went off before could get the bars in

Had a recent job where we put some pads in for steel posts, engineer cocked up and changed the sizes of pads on drawing revision (relating to another part of the build) and didn’t even tell me. Spotted it luckily. Explained that I couldn’t change them as the posts would be pissing in the wind with weight of house above it - ended up agreeing we could use chem fix and rebar to tie them together but insisted we use Hilti top of the range stuff, cost us about £300 for resin and gun!! Hilti rep laughed at it, said the resin we were buying was way over the top and designed for industrial scale structural fixing underwater

Customer had to cough up, ignored recommendations from architect on which engineer to use originally and found this muppet on MyBuilder

What a muppet he's obviously never tried to pull one even the cheap resin has them stuck to the concrete than the concrete is to itself.

I did a job for customer who worked for Fisher his job was to go round pulling fixings for proving the load on them he reckoned you couldn't beat resin from a gun for into blockwork/concrete and had some blocks lying around that he had pulled at home that had snapped the blocks in half as it pulled the stud out

and it MUST BE DRY ....... forget it if it's raining or the holes are wet

Yes a good blast from the airline will dry the hole if your struggling for a hole or 2 I find it's best to drill blow out and set the studs fairly quickly spare nozzles for the gun are a must and take the stress away

 

[Smiffy]

If you can't get an airline there it's easy to get a piece of stiff 6mm plastic pipe and adapt it onto the end of a leaf blower
Watched some guys installing drive through kiosks in newzealand and they had an 18v Makita leaf blower that looked like a proper adapter for blowing out the holes

 

[GazCro]

To be fair i see nowt wrong with op plates cast into conc idea, actually did the same thing couple of year back re locating a tower for a zip wire.

 

[fred]

Only need building regs if you want to sell it or raise money against it. Otherwise crack on.

 

[Smiffy]

Only need building regs if you want to sell it or raise money against it. Otherwise crack on.

Statue of limitations is 2 years on building control aswell

And building control and planning inspectors have no legal right to enter your property

 

[Mogman]

my thoughts of having plates cast in the concrete will mean the base plates will be level with the top of the concrete so when I put the concrete panels in they will sit flat on the floor and not sat on the base plates at the ends but an inch gap in the middle
Anyway seem to have bigger fish to fry first, the council have have archived information that the site was a landfill (not bin wagons) but imported spoil and clay to build the ground up bullshit it was merely moved from the adjacent plot so have to get a few bore holes done and tested maybe a bit tricky at the moment with the lock down

 

[Quattromike]

Bloody council are a right bunch of jobsworths they pick on the working man as they are easy targets, the big outfits can bury them in paperwork for all sorts of s**t for next to no cost so they don't bother them but if you try and get on with things yourself they pull any amount of bull crap out to try and stop you doing what you want and costs a bob or two to appease them

 

[Quattromike]

Bloody council are a right bunch of jobsworths they pick on the working man as they are easy targets, the big outfits can bury them in paperwork for all sorts of s**t for next to no cost so they don't bother them but if you try and get on with things yourself they pull any amount of bull crap out to try and stop you doing what you want and costs a bob or two to appease them

Rant over