Imobiliser

T whiting

T whiting

Well-known member
Has anyone got any recommendations for retrofit imobilisers for plant. I'd like something like a coded key if possible as I'm not the biggest fan of codes and the dabber ones are a pita

Thanks tom
 
JD450A

JD450A

Feral as Fk 🐾
Has anyone got any recommendations for retrofit imobilisers for plant. I'd like something like a coded key if possible as I'm not the biggest fan of codes and the dabber ones are a pita

Thanks tom

Ball Valve on the suction side of the pump.... Will f**k the Pump if the engine is left running by wankers but would save it being stolen! Simple and highly effective.

Other option for your Case would be a ball valve somewhere on the hydraulic Drive train to Immobilise it. All thieves are electrical experts.... hydraulics not so much
 
jd6820

jd6820

Well-known member
I fit the Sterling Excel Key Fob immobilisers. They are alright for plastic dash panels as the antenna can pick up the fob easy enough. Don't work well on dumpers and the like with steel boxes for instrument panels, terex benford springs to mind. For those I use the touch fob version. Still IP rated for outdoor use. The keypads versions I don't really recommend as once the code is known it can be passed on easy, the numbers do eventually fail and the buttons crack allowing moisture ingress. The Sterling are good value for money too. Just make sure it's mounted in a tricky place and that you tangle and separate the wires enough that it makes it difficult to bypass. I like to run black wires all over the place and join the connections miles apart so they cant just join the wires. Then bandage up the loom to neaten job. Helps leaving the wires full length too, so when the thief targets the loom its just a long trail of unmarked wires doubled back. This all takes time but I feel a proper install is worth the extra effort.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Ball Valve on the suction side of the pump.... Will f**k the Pump if the engine is left running by wankers but would save it being stolen! Simple and highly effective.

Other option for your Case would be a ball valve somewhere on the hydraulic Drive train to Immobilise it. All thieves are electrical experts.... hydraulics not so much
have suggested it before ... hella 12v DIN outlet socket in the dash ... just looks like a conventional power outlet ... connect in series with the dead man's solenoid valve/switch .... and have a plug with a simple link in it ... no plug - no work ;):) ... would take some finding :sneaky::sneaky:
 
CPS

CPS

Well-known member
A strategically placed ball valve is the way to go...... but not on the pump inlet! That's just crazy 😲 what if you forget yourself some morning, start the machine up to warm up and walk off for 15 mins, pump f***ed 5k gone just like that!
On a track machine a ball valve between P and T on the servo lines going to the track paddles..... job done.
On a duck, between P and T on the drive petal I'd guess, or some other function.
 
JD450A

JD450A

Feral as Fk 🐾
A strategically placed ball valve is the way to go...... but not on the pump inlet! That's just crazy 😲 what if you forget yourself some morning, start the machine up to warm up and walk off for 15 mins, pump f***ed 5k gone just like that!
Don't forget 🤣
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
A strategically placed ball valve is the way to go...... but not on the pump inlet! That's just crazy 😲 what if you forget yourself some morning, start the machine up to warm up and walk off for 15 mins, pump f***ed 5k gone just like that!
On a track machine a ball valve between P and T on the servo lines going to the track paddles..... job done.
On a duck, between P and T on the drive petal I'd guess, or some other function.
between P & a FTT line, tee-ed off - with a tap, or a 3x1 diverter valve ... probably easiest, at the far end of the line from the servo pump, before the servo valve block ..... kill virtually everything .. zero servo pressure available
 
T whiting

T whiting

Well-known member
Thanks for all the replays the sterling imobiliser looks just like what I was looking for 👍👍. I'll look at putting one of the suggestions for a ball valve in too as it's a simple way to stop it dead 👌
 
Stubota86

Stubota86

Well-known member
have suggested it before ... hella 12v DIN outlet socket in the dash ... just looks like a conventional power outlet ... connect in series with the dead man's solenoid valve/switch .... and have a plug with a simple link in it ... no plug - no work ;):) ... would take some finding :sneaky::sneaky:

great idea, might do that on the kubota
 
M

Monkeybusiness

Well-known member
I had an issue with a dangle-key-fob immobiliser jobby on a machine. It came with 2 sets of keys/fobs, both of which worked fine with one set ‘kept safe’ and the others used all the time.
I misplaced the set I used after a couple of years, and the stored set subsequently no longer worked (the immobiliser wouldn’t recognise the fob). Long and short of it was the immobiliser had to be entirely removed and a new one installed as there was no way of recoding it to the existing or a new fob without a working fob...
Turns out that recoding these fobs involved turning the ignition on/off a certain number of times with the existing and new fobs present - any non-present fobs would be deleted from the immobiliser’s memory. To depressurise the hydraulics on my machine to connect/disconnect hydraulics involved turning the ignition on/off whilst operating spools (you can see where this is going!!!). I’d unknowingly instructed the system to forget my spare keys, which was an expensive and frustrating mistake...
 
hiluxman

hiluxman

Well-known member
I had an issue with a dangle-key-fob immobiliser jobby on a machine. It came with 2 sets of keys/fobs, both of which worked fine with one set ‘kept safe’ and the others used all the time.
I misplaced the set I used after a couple of years, and the stored set subsequently no longer worked (the immobiliser wouldn’t recognise the fob). Long and short of it was the immobiliser had to be entirely removed and a new one installed as there was no way of recoding it to the existing or a new fob without a working fob...
Turns out that recoding these fobs involved turning the ignition on/off a certain number of times with the existing and new fobs present - any non-present fobs would be deleted from the immobiliser’s memory. To depressurise the hydraulics on my machine to connect/disconnect hydraulics involved turning the ignition on/off whilst operating spools (you can see where this is going!!!). I’d unknowingly instructed the system to forget my spare keys, which was an expensive and frustrating mistake...
As ever just shows the immoboliser people dont talk to the machine people to know exactly who the product works
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I had an issue with a dangle-key-fob immobiliser jobby on a machine. It came with 2 sets of keys/fobs, both of which worked fine with one set ‘kept safe’ and the others used all the time.
I misplaced the set I used after a couple of years, and the stored set subsequently no longer worked (the immobiliser wouldn’t recognise the fob). Long and short of it was the immobiliser had to be entirely removed and a new one installed as there was no way of recoding it to the existing or a new fob without a working fob...
Turns out that recoding these fobs involved turning the ignition on/off a certain number of times with the existing and new fobs present - any non-present fobs would be deleted from the immobiliser’s memory. To depressurise the hydraulics on my machine to connect/disconnect hydraulics involved turning the ignition on/off whilst operating spools (you can see where this is going!!!). I’d unknowingly instructed the system to forget my spare keys, which was an expensive and frustrating mistake...
got a system like that on my Hodna Goldwing .... haven't used the spare -- ever :oops: 🤬 🤬
 
jd6820

jd6820

Well-known member
As far as I’m aware, with the sterling fobs the RF Id tag doesn’t have a battery and the loop induces a very small current enough to transmit a code? So long term storage shouldn’t be an issue. Spares ain’t dear at £16 per fob either. But I’m not affiliated with the company in anyway so can’t say that is exactly how they work but I’ve fitted them on quite a lot of machines and bar the issues mentioned above with steel enclosures I’ve never had an issue.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
As far as I’m aware, with the sterling fobs the RF Id tag doesn’t have a battery and the loop induces a very small current enough to transmit a code? So long term storage shouldn’t be an issue. Spares ain’t dear at £16 per fob either. But I’m not affiliated with the company in anyway so can’t say that is exactly how they work but I’ve fitted them on quite a lot of machines and bar the issues mentioned above with steel enclosures I’ve never had an issue.
well that's good to hear (y)
 
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