terex hd1000 struggling to get radiators and exhaust removed due to access, help plz

A

alanc

Member
Need to take the engine out as I recon i have a split block . (iced up a few weeks back - schoolboy error) .. Following the manual I need to remove the coolant system. (hydraulic and water radiators ). Manual says there is a removable cover panel and belly tray at the back of teh terex , but on mine it is one welded unit and looks to be part of the chassis, this means I cannot get to the 2 bolts that are on the underside of the framework for the radiators.. Same goes for the exhaust muffler need to get one out to get to the other , anyone got a solution for this that doesnt involve a gas axe or angle grinder ? any help appreciated cheers alan c
 
Mick-the-fitter

Mick-the-fitter

It’s what I do!
How old? I thought the tanks both sides came off first, photos?
 
A

alanc

Member
How old? I thought the tanks both sides came off first, photos?
not sure of age , quite old though (sry cant be more specific without heading out to check , ) first thing it says in manual is remove rads..no mention of needing to takeoff side tanks that i can see , but that was my thought that I cant see another way of getting into the bolts for the radiator on the underside . even thjen it looks tight . so drain systems and tanks off . :)
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A

alanc

Member
you sure that rad is bolted down ... bottom could just be on spigots ?
,mmmm, lol, i hope not spent a day trying to get the bugger out , will try that tomorrow , looking from the underside it is tough to tell nut looks like 2 bolts
thanks , again for help
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
,mmmm, lol, i hope not spent a day trying to get the bugger out , will try that tomorrow , looking from the underside it is tough to tell nut looks like 2 bolts
thanks , again for help
you don't have a little endoscopic camera you could have a look under there with ?? cheap enough on ebay and very handy for difficult to view stuff
 
jd6820

jd6820

Well-known member
Tanks off, you are gonna make hard work of the job if you don't I'm afraid, its not a big job to remove them, quick fluid change whilst you are doing it. That way you can get the exhaust easier too. At least that what I did on the last one I worked on. Also i'm sure you've gathered it's footplate off too and then the steel upturned U shape holding the pump end of the engine. When you split the pump from the engine, best to check the plastic coupler mounted to the flywheel it has internal splines that wear. The steel coupler on the pump less so. There's the auxillary hydraulic pump mounted at the fuel injection pump that's much easier to work on with the side off.
 
A

alanc

Member
you don't have a little endoscopic camera you could have a look under there with ?? cheap enough on ebay and very handy for difficult to view stuffI
you don't have a little endoscopic camera you could have a look under there with ?? cheap enough on ebay and very handy for difficult to view stuff
I think i can get my hands on one , although I plan to get brutal with the water radiator first as this si the whole cause of the issue (or at least I am and its part of it ) the radiator has a small leak which is why I ve ended up with a potential cracked block due to topping up with water only ....
 
A

alanc

Member
Tanks off, you are gonna make hard work of the job if you don't I'm afraid, its not a big job to remove them, quick fluid change whilst you are doing it. That way you can get the exhaust easier too. At least that what I did on the last one I worked on. Also i'm sure you've gathered it's footplate off too and then the steel upturned U shape holding the pump end of the engine. When you split the pump from the engine, best to check the plastic coupler mounted to the flywheel it has internal splines that wear. The steel coupler on the pump less so. There's the auxillary hydraulic pump mounted at the fuel injection pump that's much easier to work on with the side off.
Thx, . u plate not off yet , was trying to follow the manual , which is unusual for me , lol, much appreciated on what else to check , its a job for tonight ..
 
A

alanc

Member
Taking a step back, have you pressure tested the cooling system?

Could I also suggest a load of de-greaser?
It's so much easier to work on when it's clean and you can see what you are doing.
cracked block likley as when i fill the radiator , it fills the engine sump , instantly, I didnt realise this then cranked the engine over , no movement . oil filler cap off and oil spewing out of top of engine , , sump plug out an doil water mix into bucket :) .. degreaser, afraid not , the dumper is sitting in my stable and not a workshop or yard.
 
A

alanc

Member
you don't have a little endoscopic camera you could have a look under there with ?? cheap enough on ebay and very handy for difficult to view stuff
I think i can get my hands on one , although I plan to get brutal with the water radiator first as this si the whole cause of the issue (or at least I am and its part of it ) the radiator has a small leak which is why I ve ended up with a potential cracked block due to topping up with water only ....
 
A

alanc

Member
you sure that rad is bolted down ... bottom could just be on spigots ?
not bolted down , the sub-frame that mounts them in is , water radiator now out , just need to work out best way to deal with draining the fluid from the hydraulic system without putting air into the hoses . . tanks drained and ready to come off so I can get teh subframe for the radiators off to get teh engine clear enough to pull back and lift oit
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
not bolted down , the sub-frame that mounts them in is , water radiator now out , just need to work out best way to deal with draining the fluid from the hydraulic system without putting air into the hoses . . tanks drained and ready to come off so I can get teh subframe for the radiators off to get teh engine clear enough to pull back and lift oit
cap the hoses off as they come off .. or some sili tapered plugs in them .. I'd cap them personally
 
Mick-the-fitter

Mick-the-fitter

It’s what I do!
Most of the system is gravity fed so not a great problem! Do the job we will sort oil problem after xxxx
 
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