yanmar b08-3 won't start

[Smiffy]

Anyone wanting to do work on an engine will need a set of spanners and sockets in imperial and metric as a bare minimum.
Oh and don't forget a shifter and pipe wrench

I think I'd class a minimum toolbox as a lot more than spanners and sockets especially modern engines with a million types of fasteners. Funny electrical and plumbing clips. And a whole host of other UN neased junk

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

True - regardless of separation angle, you can get anything to start and run, but that doesn't mean you can balance it. Balance shafts are a common workaround, but at the penalty of weight and complexity.

True

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

If it’s like it bigger brother (The TNE 68 I’m currently doing battle with) he will need 17mm for the injector pipes and I think 19mm on the crank pulley bolt to turn the engine over.

Good call 2 x 17mm open end spanner’s, and a pair of mole grips for the silly leak off pipes.

 

[Canal Navvy]

regarding the injector pump, its definitely pumping it out, fuels getting about and the spray on the injectors looks good... are you thinking its pumping weaker than it should be?


The pump is definitely pumping as I'd expect, just wondering if it's pumping at the right time

 

[Mogman]

Anyone wanting to do work on an engine will need a set of spanners and sockets in imperial and metric as a bare minimum.
Oh and don't forget a shifter and pipe wrench

And a good hammer

 

[V8Druid]

And a good hammer

and a pair of nut ****ers .... (water pump pliers) for those poxy spring hose clips

 

[Quattromike]

and a pair of nut ****ers .... (water pump pliers) for those poxy spring hose clips

Would that be hen's legs or crow's feet?

 

[sandbags89]

most engines 'breathe' ... with pistons going up and down in the crank case a certain degree of air movement and light pressure can build and is normally vented via the crank case breather system, often re-circulated into the engine itself ... the amount of breathing yours is demonstrating would suggest that the pressures in the crank case are much higher than normal, possibly contributed to, by compression in the combustion chambers escaping into the crank case, either past the piston rings or a split/crack in a piston (or even a hole in a piston) stuck/bent/damaged/burnt valves won't allow much compression to escape into the engine casings, other than past the stem seals, but I'd expect to hear a chuffing sound if it was a valve fault, preventing compression.

ah okay i got ya

If it’s like it bigger brother (The TNE 68 I’m currently doing battle with) he will need 17mm for the injector pipes and I think 19mm on the crank pulley bolt to turn the engine over.

...sounds like the same engine as mine, no? 2tne68

I think I'd class a minimum toolbox as a lot more than spanners and sockets especially modern engines with a million types of fasteners. Funny electrical and plumbing clips. And a whole host of other UN neased junk

yep reckon i got all the basics needed, spanner sets, adjustables, socket sets, grips, wrenches etc, drivers and bits...

regarding the injector pump, its definitely pumping it out, fuels getting about and the spray on the injectors looks good... are you thinking its pumping weaker than it should be?


The pump is definitely pumping as I'd expect, just wondering if it's pumping at the right time

i see. is it common for them to go out of timing... and out of curiousity what is it that can cause the timing to change?


every time the digger discussion comes up with the old man, he says the same thing ..."its gotta be electrical, im sure its electrical". I keep explaining to him that this means nothing unless we can identify which component is not working due to failed electrics, such as the plugs arent getting power, or the solenoid isn't operating. But all the essentials seems to be working as should. I explained that were thinking its compression issue, buts he's committed to electrics i think he had a little panic on about me opening the engine up to investigate. Anyway today he popped round to check the electrics and has managed to kill the solenoid. To be fair there seemed to be a small break in one of the wires for the solenoid, which made it intermittent if it wasn't fixed into a certain position. It definitely did work, as i operated it when removed, it makes a loud click so its easy to know when its working or not. I think the cable worsened since it has been removed a few times when troubleshooting. The solenoid is a sealed unit and the wire break seems to be right where it means the solenoid in a rubber neck, so can't get in to repair it. Anyway now its dead so gonna source a replacement.

I got a solid work week but i'm hoping i might be able to get some work done on it next weekend.

 

[V8Druid]

ah okay i got ya

...sounds like the same engine as mine, no? 2tne68

yep reckon i got all the basics needed, spanner sets, adjustables, socket sets, grips, wrenches etc, drivers and bits...

i see. is it common for them to go out of timing... and out of curiousity what is it that can cause the timing to change?


every time the digger discussion comes up with the old man, he says the same thing ..."its gotta be electrical, im sure its electrical". I keep explaining to him that this means nothing unless we can identify which component is not working due to failed electrics, such as the plugs arent getting power, or the solenoid isn't operating. But all the essentials seems to be working as should. I explained that were thinking its compression issue, buts he's committed to electrics i think he had a little panic on about me opening the engine up to investigate. Anyway today he popped round to check the electrics and has managed to kill the solenoid. To be fair there seemed to be a small break in one of the wires for the solenoid, which made it intermittent if it wasn't fixed into a certain position. It definitely did work, as i operated it when removed, it makes a loud click so its easy to know when its working or not. I think the cable worsened since it has been removed a few times when troubleshooting. The solenoid is a sealed unit and the wire break seems to be right where it means the solenoid in a rubber neck, so can't get in to repair it. Anyway now its dead so gonna source a replacement.

I got a solid work week but i'm hoping i might be able to get some work done on it next weekend.

Stop Solenoid for Yanmar 3TNE & 3TNV Engines - 119653-77953

Overview: This 12 V stop solenoid (part number 119653-77953) is a non-genuine replacement for Yanmar 3TNE and 3TNV diesel engines. Built with a robust metal body, fixed mounting bracket and a positive-acting plunger, it cuts fuel

www.lsengineers.co.uk

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

There is no issue with stripping and rebuilding the engine, if you have the tools, I can help with the rest.

 

[Rob65]

ah okay i got ya

...sounds like the same engine as mine, no? 2tne68

With these Yanmar engines the 2 at the front is for two cylinders the TNE is the engine series and the 68 is the cylinder bore in millimetres.

 

[sandbags89]

With these Yanmar engines the 2 at the front is for two cylinders the TNE is the engine series and the 68 is the cylinder bore in millimetres.

yea thought so

There is no issue with stripping and rebuilding the engine, if you have the tools, I can help with the rest.

appreciated Mick. Is there anything i'll have to order in advance that will automatically need replacing once opened, e.g any seals, or can I put everything back how it was providing they are in good condition?

 

[Tacitus]

I think I'd class a minimum toolbox as a lot more than spanners and sockets especially modern engines with a million types of fasteners. Funny electrical and plumbing clips. And a whole host of other UN neased junk

I wouldn't call a 2TNE68 a modern engine. More like a basic agricultural banger. Nothing wrong with that though, it makes fixing it a basic low tech entertainment. Keep telling us what you find and maybe we can fix it together. But you need to be open to suggestions like buy a few essential tools if you don't have them.
And yes, don't forget a hammer ... large one.

I had the feeling your stop solenoid was not opening up from the start. You said it was fine. Solenoid may make all the right noises and still fail to open properly. Now if you replace it we will know for sure. Let's hope that is what it is. Your father may be right after all.

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

Did you try starting with the solenoid out? Unbolted! This will open the rack fully, you can stop it by pushing the rack across with your finger.

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

You would do well to get a gasket set any way, what ever happens it will need this!

 

[Tacitus]

What is the status Sandbag?
No chuf chuf yet?

 

[Mick-the-fitter]

It has gone a bit quiet! Maybe run it with the solenoid out and all was well! Spent the rest of the time putting all the other parts back on

 

[V8Druid]

It has gone a bit quiet! Maybe run it with the solenoid out and all was well! Spent the rest of the time putting all the other parts back on

didn't he say he had to work elsewhere for a week or so ?

 

[sandbags89]

Hello all, Apologies for the delay!

didn't he say he had to work elsewhere for a week or so ?

yes that's right mate, unfortunately it seemed to over run and i've just had back to back s**t to deal with. I've been neglecting the main problem, the stubborn yanmar

What is the status Sandbag?
No chuf chuf yet?

It has gone a bit quiet! Maybe run it with the solenoid out and all was well! Spent the rest of the time putting all the other parts back on

if only that was the case haha


no, all i have managed to do was order and fit a new solenoid, and also one of the electromagnetic relays which is apparently a glow plug timer switch.
Update since last time when the solenoid died.... replaced the bits, and its still not working correctly. From what i understand, this little relay has to operate to activate the solenoid. It doesn't. It seems no power is now getting to this unit, it was previously. So i now currently have the new solenoid on, and the old relay switch on (because I managed pry off the casing on the original one) and It allows me to manually activate the switch to operate the solenoid. Apart from that I haven't touched it.

Will try get a vid up today maybe to demonstrate the above. Old mans popping round so we will prob have another look at it, which most of it will be me convincing him we need to open it up and him telling me its electrics

You would do well to get a gasket set any way, what ever happens it will need this!

like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/39358542...MIkc36-d6x-AIVC-ztCh3qvQXxEAQYBiABEgKGKvD_BwE

 

[sandbags89]