Volvo ec15 alarms

T

Thediggerman

New member
Hi
I run a Volvo ec15c , it has the Yanmar engine, been getting intermittent overheat alarm and cutting out when started back up after lunch sometimes, would run all day if not stopped and doesn’t actually overheat, yesterday at the end of the day started getting hydraulic alarm sounding and trying to cut out when put under a working load .
Two problems seem to be related, engine will start and rev no problem, can track about , boom all works when not pushed hard .
Been through all connections with contact cleaner , fixed a couple of chaffed wires , jetted clean radiators, still the same 🤦🏻‍♂️
I can’t find any ECU so I don’t get how the sensors or whatever are controlling the engine to make it cut out or sound the alarm.
Any ideas ? Anyone worked with these Volvos ? Please
 
sfrs4

sfrs4

Well-known member
As far as I know the I-ecu is the display on your right hand side, I can see a sensor for engine coolant, but I can't see one for the temp on the hydraulic system?
 
CPS

CPS

Well-known member
Yea i seam to remember the displays in the EC25s giving problems with alarms
 
T

Thediggerman

New member
As far as I know the I-ecu is the display on your right hand side, I can see a sensor for engine coolant, but I can't see one for the temp on the hydraulic system?
I was wondering if the display has the ecu built into it , took it apart and it looks quite complex inside .
The only sensors I can find are water temperature and oil pressure.
IMG_2475.jpeg
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
yet more built in grief, for a piece of kit that really only needs some very basic circuitry, to function perfectly, with a few basic sensors and alarms/warnings :mad::mad::mad:
 
Mick-the-fitter

Mick-the-fitter

It’s what I do!
Is there really any need for all that PCB for warning lights and buzzers??
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Is there really any need for all that PCB for warning lights and buzzers??
exactly - smaller scale, but our Countax has a PCB in the dash about 5" x 3+" ... I mean WTF?? o_Oo_O ... had to rewire it a few years ago when the board died .. just DID NOT need that crap
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Wait till you get to the canbus stuff on the new machines, it's a flipping nightmare, nothing works like you think it does anymore. What was wrong with two wires and if required a relay.
don't even go there -- 'Drema is analogue canbus apparently .... five wires come out the dash to the magic box behind the seat :oops::oops: ... the box is a nightmare when I looked in there quite some time ago :oops::rolleyes::cry:
 
Gecko

Gecko

Well-known member
Been through all connections with contact cleaner
Contact cleaner works really well, but (if just a solvent) leaves the contacts totaly clean with no protection for the future (or assembly).
Some "contact cleaners" include a lube, but you need to check the lable

#eshop.wurth.co.uk/Contact-spray-Oxidation-protection-CNTCTPROT-OXYDATIONPROTECTION-200ML/089361.sku
(remove '#' - I hit the 'two link limit')
 
Mick-the-fitter

Mick-the-fitter

It’s what I do!
exactly - smaller scale, but our Countax has a PCB in the dash about 5" x 3+" ... I mean WTF?? o_Oo_O ... had to rewire it a few years ago when the board died .. just DID NOT need that crap
Exactly I’ve done a few different requires in my time
don't even go there -- 'Drema is analogue canbus apparently .... five wires come out the dash to the magic box behind the seat :oops::oops: ... the box is a nightmare when I looked in there quite some time ago :oops::rolleyes::cry:
 
Mick-the-fitter

Mick-the-fitter

It’s what I do!
I think not so many years ago, a brand spanking new roller fried its PCB, the dealer couldn’t supply parts it was too new!! “Can we just get it going to get it off site”🤷‍♂️ I did🤣
 
sfrs4

sfrs4

Well-known member
If it helps any, pin 1 is from the engine coolant temp sensor, green cable with 501 marked on it.
 
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