Tree shears etc

Giles

Giles

Well-known member
When are they worth it?
Got a job to clear some scrub wondering if it’s worth having a tree shear, or maybe hiring one?
Alternative is just take chainsaw and have a day on it first.

likeky be on 5 or 8 tonner not decided which one to take yet

I am thinking with the thumb coming off the 5 to put the tilt hitch on just to get a grab either manual or hydraulic
 

Attachments

  • 6F219AD4-42ED-46AF-B1D2-5ED3AFE613CD.jpeg
    6F219AD4-42ED-46AF-B1D2-5ED3AFE613CD.jpeg
    301.6 KB · Views: 332
  • Like
Reactions: CPS
GazCro

GazCro

Well-known member
I'd just take them out roots and all either with bucket or grab. Shears are becoming a the 'in' thing lately but if you're wanting rid totally you might as well rive roots out to start with. If you're wanting to reduce height you need to tidy up after them with a chainsaw anyhow.
 
doobin

doobin

Well-known member
If you are fairly fit, have the right light but powerful saw and know what you are doing, then you've got to be into some pretty gnarly or high up stuff to make a tree shear worth it on a smaller machine IMHO. 5 or 8 ton maybe, 3t I'd say only for specific tasks such as topping out a hedge.

Are you burning on site? How much of the stuff like the above do you have to do? I'd clear the stuff in that photo to a well burning fire in around ten minutes with my E27 and saw.

If the fire is a way away, a great technique is to fell the trees (bunch the multi stemmed stuff with the grab first and apply slight upward pressure then cut through it all at once) then drag as much as you can (like a skidder) to the fire, where a second bloke cuts it to the required size and takes out the unions, which is the most important bit of keeping a fire going unless it's whole tree sized. You return to collect another load, and when you drag that back it takes just thirty seconds to clear the cut stuff onto the fire before you drag the next lot into place for cutting. Have a petrol blower injecting air via a cuttering pipe into the fire, and saw bloke can keep an eye on that too, as positioning is critical.

Basically, it's really easy to cut that size stuff and drag it about, and I reckon a bloke on a saw is cheaper and faster at sectioning it to the required size.

At 8 ton size though, that's the sort of stuff that you can swing onto a large fire whole if you have it going hot enough and can keep it fed fast enough.

Oh, and with those brambles, grab them. Then put them down on some more brambles and grab again. Repeat and you will end up with a ball of brambles you can barely lift, as the brambles in the grab helpt it to trap more with each bite. Gets a large amount of the roots out too.
 
Giles

Giles

Well-known member
I’ve saws from mts200t right through to 48” bar 90cc ones and experience with them. Plus the owner wants to chop them up for logs.

It was more like gaz says everyone going tree shear mad and wondered if they are the wonder thst ppl make out.

Normally just push them over then grab them with thumb and stack them. Over thinking it or after a new toy maybe lol
 
GazCro

GazCro

Well-known member
I’ve saws from mts200t right through to 48” bar 90cc ones and experience with them. Plus the owner wants to chop them up for logs.

It was more like gaz says everyone going tree shear mad and wondered if they are the wonder thst ppl make out.

Normally just push them over then grab them with thumb and stack them. Over thinking it or after a new toy maybe lol
Price one and put yourself off the idea
 
T whiting

T whiting

Well-known member
There good for overhanging stuff that you don't want to fall on something and bushy stuff where you can't get the saw in without lots of cutting your way in. Or if you don't like using chainsaws
 
Furniss

Furniss

Well-known member
I have had mine 4-5years now on an 8T - it paid for itself a long time ago,as said IMHO its best on a 6t and above size, also doubles up as a decent grab and you can mince material up into a really small heap either to burn or go away.
TMK 300 (which I have) isnt the biggest cut in reality - but a bit of work with chainsaw first and you can take and hold some big lumps, one of those tools thats good to have in your arsenal ,we quite often get a bit of xtra work on a site wIth it, brilliant for awkward overhanging stuff, after a while you dont drop much if anything with it.
Safer and much easier than chainsaws and virtually no maintenance.
Personally I wouldnt want to be dealing with stuff like the bush below any other way.

EDIT: Forgot to add that its a bit restricted and would be a lot handier under a tilt hitch or tiltrotator


bigbush.jpg


bigbush2.jpg


overhang.jpg
 
Last edited:
L

Lazy Driver

New member
When are they worth it?
Got a job to clear some scrub wondering if it’s worth having a tree shear, or maybe hiring one?
Alternative is just take chainsaw and have a day on it first.

likeky be on 5 or 8 tonner not decided which one to take yet

I am thinking with the thumb coming off the 5 to put the tilt hitch on just to get a grab either manual or hydraulic

an hour with a chainsaw will get most on the deck easily enough and it won’t take much longer if you were to sneed them
 
M

Monkeybusiness

Well-known member
If you aren’t ‘pruning’ (so finish isn’t important) and you have a strong grab I’d just use that and rip the trees out or apart (depending on size). Even if you are pruning you will need a chainsaw to follow a shear to tidy up.
I’ve got a TMK300 on a 6 tonner and find it pretty underwhelming most of the time - we tend to use the grab under the Rototilt along with a guy on a saw the bulk of the time and it’s quicker (the tree shears are not amazing for re-handling as they are designed to cut what they grab).
There are jobs when the shear comes into its own but this is predominantly clear-felling young plantations for whole-tree-chipping - they are fast and efficient for building piles that can be skidded or forwarded out.
Unless you have a lot of work for one I’d not recommend buying personally.
 
S

Smiffy

Well-known member
If you aren’t ‘pruning’ (so finish isn’t important) and you have a strong grab I’d just use that and rip the trees out or apart (depending on size). Even if you are pruning you will need a chainsaw to follow a shear to tidy up.
I’ve got a TMK300 on a 6 tonner and find it pretty underwhelming most of the time - we tend to use the grab under the Rototilt along with a guy on a saw the bulk of the time and it’s quicker (the tree shears are not amazing for re-handling as they are designed to cut what they grab).
There are jobs when the shear comes into its own but this is predominantly clear-felling young plantations for whole-tree-chipping - they are fast and efficient for building piles that can be skidded or forwarded out.
Unless you have a lot of work for one I’d not recommend buying personally.

It has always struck me as strange that there aren't shears on the market designed to be used for rehandling as well
Possibly with a retractable blade
Would be brilliant on chipper duties surely
And useful in other circumstances
 
GazCro

GazCro

Well-known member
It has always struck me as strange that there aren't shears on the market designed to be used for rehandling as well
Possibly with a retractable blade
Would be brilliant on chipper duties surely
And useful in other circumstances
Because they'd rather sell you a grab as well. Retractable blade sounds good but there's a lot of strength needed there and it probably isn't that simple. I guess ultimately they are designed to be used enough that something else would be following on with a grab.
 
CPS

CPS

Well-known member
When are they worth it?
Got a job to clear some scrub wondering if it’s worth having a tree shear, or maybe hiring one?
Alternative is just take chainsaw and have a day on it first.

likeky be on 5 or 8 tonner not decided which one to take yet

I am thinking with the thumb coming off the 5 to put the tilt hitch on just to get a grab either manual or hydraulic
I can hire you one to suit you you'd like!
 
JD450A

JD450A

Feral as Fk 🐾
Shear is possibly the worst investment going for general plant hire.

Firstly the work is finite.... once you've pruned all the hedges in your locality it will take years for more to appear.... There are at least 6 shears within 10 miles of me, do the math.

Get Pruning jobs out your head.... 1) you'd need a tilty, 2) you'd need to tidy the cut with a chainsaw if your after a nice job and a reputation that isn't that of a tree butcher.

I've costed it, priced it, tried to make it viable in my head as I love doing forestry work.... but it doesn't stack.
 
M

Monkeybusiness

Well-known member
Shear is possibly the worst investment going for general plant hire.

Firstly the work is finite.... once you've pruned all the hedges in your locality it will take years for more to appear.... There are at least 6 shears within 10 miles of me, do the math.

Get Pruning jobs out your head.... 1) you'd need a tilty, 2) you'd need to tidy the cut with a chainsaw if your after a nice job and a reputation that isn't that of a tree butcher.

I've costed it, priced it, tried to make it viable in my head as I love doing forestry work.... but it doesn't stack.
I thought you were a clay-head (from Stoke) as you have seemingly never bought anything, you’ve always brought it with you.
However, it now appears that you are also a seppo, using the singular of a word only used in English as a plural.
I can only imagine what an American/Stoke/West-country accent sounds like!..
 
craig

craig

Well-known member
It has always struck me as strange that there aren't shears on the market designed to be used for rehandling as well
Possibly with a retractable blade
Would be brilliant on chipper duties surely
And useful in other circumstances
There is sort off, only its will be made out of Chinesium , bend and break :ROFLMAO:
 
Top