The 'Today's Job' thread

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Smiffy

Well-known member
Ok

I have a hiper SR, GPS antenna, the issue with them is they need to be regularly used otherwise in my case, as there is no seperate internal battery when the main battery is depleted can loose the firmware needed to run and needs to be uploaded by a dealer, the lead needed is not for sale to non dealers. Hence mine is now in its box and hasn't been used for a while as its nice to have but can manage without really

Has your magnet got GPS activated?

Wanting GPS for hybrid positioning? Have you not tried setting out by setting up my reference line might be better for you, I've used this when marking out extension both commercial and domestic

That doesn't sound to helpful might be why you see such cheap units for sale, does the newer vr have the same problem?. Apparently the older versions of magnet would run emlid gps units but they have blocked them on newer updates.
I want a gps for putting in reference points on new builds with no usable existing points to reference from. Not a problem on smaller sites as the client inevitably seems to shift it round anyway, so I have so far either surveyed the area, put it into cad and then copied the building into the same file and manipulated it until the client was happy. Or another job I used two corners of an existing building to do a resection. Not entirely accurate but good enough for what I wanted. Then put retros up for the next visit.
I have played with the reference lines but got to ambitious and loaded far to big a dwg into magnet. And it was on a go slow so gave up as it put the TS in completely the wrong place on the map. Need to try it again. I think I had the left or right option the wrong way.
Definitely a learning curve but I find cad the harder part.
 
S

Smiffy

Well-known member
well
significantly

substantially
completely

Utterly above my pay grade :oops::oops:

Not as difficult as you would think as I think you've said you had cad before. It's just feeding it into a total station rather than a CNC machine. The total station is just a very good calculator at the end of the day.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Not as difficult as you would think as I think you've said you had cad before. It's just feeding it into a total station rather than a CNC machine. The total station is just a very good calculator at the end of the day.
yeh used to 'drive' A-cad daily -- but a loooong time since I even opened the prog. ... would take me soooome time to get my head around it again, but dare say it has become a lot more user friendly/intuitive since my last experiences :rolleyes:
still got several years-worth of discs but none loaded on the current W10 desktop
 
Silversabre

Silversabre

Well-known member
No experience with emlids, I know a few years ago they where popular and cheap and see a few on the way now and again.

Don't forget with gps you need it activated on magnet or have a maintainace contract at I think under 1k a year and a topcon/os subscription/connection either 40 hrs a month or unlimited, there are fews now doing pay as you go, seen one on the bay and then data, so either sim or tether to your phone.

Truly you should be a minimum of 10 minutes per point to record position, potentially more depending on distance to nearest os Base station.

Either then control wise I would be say you need two good gps point and then set up off one and hold the bearing and complete a traverse, which if you have other control already you can do anf bring in to your work area.

If your establishing Retros assume your doing direct and reverse measurements?

As for CAD drawings, I like to add only as a layer in thr background, add all my points as text files with codes and layers done in CAD or rather magnet field as that's the cad programme I use.

i assume your standard groundworks....so centreline of foundation, face of brickwork, pop-up, manhole etc.. HD bolts use line and offset or recently ive added each centre as a point so had 78 individual points then picked each one on the line and the furtherest to orienate and align.

Look I'm available as and when if you need a chat or help.
 
Silversabre

Silversabre

Well-known member
4 string lines and some profiles here no expense spent ;)
If doing housing I always rather do two visits rather than profiles.

First visit set up control, H profile relative to FFL for client to control level and then pin centre of footing out.

Second visit once founds poured is the mark out face work and gridlines if any structural steel/wind post to be drilled and fixed.

Find never enough room to set the profiles far enough back and not be destroyed by a digger or dumper
 
S

Smiffy

Well-known member
No experience with emlids, I know a few years ago they where popular and cheap and see a few on the way now and again.
They seem to be the most popular of the Chinese brands. And being used on a few big construction projects.
Don't forget with gps you need it activated on magnet or have a maintainace contract at I think under 1k a year and a topcon/os subscription/connection either 40 hrs a month or unlimited, there are fews now doing pay as you go, seen one on the bay and then data, so either sim or tether to your phone.
My software currently is on a yearly subscription, as I wasn't sure about getting gps, so when it runs out I will get a perpetual license and decide then whether to add gps or not. The corrections from topcon seem the same price as everyone else, so not to bad. The emlid will run on free correction services, and seeing as my work is near London there is a chance that would be sufficient.
Truly you should be a minimum of 10 minutes per point to record position, potentially more depending on distance to nearest os Base station.
I think 3 points at 10mins or even half an hour would be worth it. Some of our jobs are 6+ months. It wouldn't always need that much accuracy we just have to stay inside the boundaries.
Either then control wise I would be say you need two good gps point and then set up off one and hold the bearing and complete a traverse, which if you have other control already you can do anf bring in to your work area.
I have watched the tutorial but haven't used the software to do a traverse yet. Hoping over Christmas I can have some time to play with it a bit.
If there are control points already I would need to get the gps out. Its only sites with nothing set down and no other buildings or features that would require it.

If your establishing Retros assume your doing direct and reverse measurements?
No I have learnt off the engineer we use at the moment. And I know some of his working practices leave a lot to be desired. He's good with cad though and has helped me there a few times.
On the topcon I'm assuming you survey in the point directly first. Is there then a function to take the reverse shot with so it averages the two shots or does it do it automatically when you flip it round?
As for CAD drawings, I like to add only as a layer in thr background, add all my points as text files with codes and layers done in CAD or rather magnet field as that's the cad programme I use.
I have been playing different ways. Either copying the points I want to use into another blank cad drawing and uploading them or export to an excel spread sheet and uploading that. I have watched the tutorial on uploading as a background but it's for an older version of software and can't find the option on mine
i assume your standard groundworks....so centreline of foundation, face of brickwork, pop-up, manhole etc.. HD bolts use line and offset or recently ive added each centre as a point so had 78 individual points then picked each one on the line and the furtherest to orienate and align.
Yeah pretty much. Some civils stuff but mostly pretty easy.
I haven't done a set of bolts yet
I have always been asked by engineers to draw a cross on the templates for bolt holes. Then they set up centre lines for the bolt sets and use stake to line to set them up


Look I'm available as and when if you need a chat or help.

Thanks that would be really helpful
 
Simon edwards

Simon edwards

Well-known member
Todays job,driving home for Christmas 😁🎅🥂 Have A good one.
 

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Giles

Giles

Well-known member
Working on your own can shift some stuff quickly with conveyors. At 70kg each though they take some man handling, ordering 8 wheels off Temu lol make some axles and stands up like the newer ones need a hopper as well nearly cut the bottom out a belle warrior barrow but couldn’t bring myself to do it lol. Will mock something up in ply until I’ve time to make one out of some 3-5m stuff
 

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R

Rob65

Well-known member
Working on your own can shift some stuff quickly with conveyors. At 70kg each though they take some man handling, ordering 8 wheels off Temu lol make some axles and stands up like the newer ones need a hopper as well nearly cut the bottom out a belle warrior barrow but couldn’t bring myself to do it lol. Will mock something up in ply until I’ve time to make one out of some 3-5m stuff
Giles, how big does the hopper need to be? I’ve got a pile of 2mm galvanised sheet that I could fabricate into a hooper from a plywood mockup. Also have 25mm angle that would probably be suitable to stiffen it up a bit without making it too heavy.

Since I’ve sold my business I’m hoping to start having a bit of time for workshop hobby projects like this.

I have an ongoing long term building project at my house and would be happy to fabricate a hopper in return for a bit of advice on things such as insulation requirements and what products are best to use as I’m also intending to get this finished of next year.
 
D

DaveDCB

Well-known member
Giles, how big does the hopper need to be? I’ve got a pile of 2mm galvanised sheet that I could fabricate into a hooper from a plywood mockup. Also have 25mm angle that would probably be suitable to stiffen it up a bit without making it too heavy.

Since I’ve sold my business I’m hoping to start having a bit of time for workshop hobby projects like this.

I have an ongoing long term building project at my house and would be happy to fabricate a hopper in return for a bit of advice on things such as insulation requirements and what products are best to use as I’m also intending to get this finished of next year.
Our advice is always free you know that 👍🏼
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Working on your own can shift some stuff quickly with conveyors. At 70kg each though they take some man handling, ordering 8 wheels off Temu lol make some axles and stands up like the newer ones need a hopper as well nearly cut the bottom out a belle warrior barrow but couldn’t bring myself to do it lol. Will mock something up in ply until I’ve time to make one out of some 3-5m stuff
temu can be handy for all sorts - just need to be selective on purchases ;) -- had a lovely set of 15" dividers the other day - the mutt's :cool:(y)
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Giles, how big does the hopper need to be? I’ve got a pile of 2mm galvanised sheet that I could fabricate into a hooper from a plywood mockup. Also have 25mm angle that would probably be suitable to stiffen it up a bit without making it too heavy.

Since I’ve sold my business I’m hoping to start having a bit of time for workshop hobby projects like this.

I have an ongoing long term building project at my house and would be happy to fabricate a hopper in return for a bit of advice on things such as insulation requirements and what products are best to use as I’m also intending to get this finished of next year.
congrats on the retirement @Rob65 .. enjoy - you'll soon wonder HTF you found time to go to work :LOL: -- 2mm ought to be fine for that job - as long as the op. loading it isn't too ham fisted :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
Giles

Giles

Well-known member
I would say about 900mm long, 300mm wide opening at belt 45 degrees angle and only 300-40m high with about 70-100mm gap from belt, I’d guesstimate it at.

There’s this one which is the same make as my first ones but just need half a day to go to Coventry to get it and the hopper.

Then I’d have 8 x 3m ones and be laughing
 

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