Terex hd1000 wont go.

[Routy56]

Jd6820.....you were spot on.

So glad that you fixed yer dumper
Followed this with interest because I have an HD850 - which is exactly the same with a slightly smaller skip.
Mine has been pretty bombproof for the last 3 years or so
Guess I've been lucky with water getting in so far - taped over those blank holes on the dash
So, to fix the problem was it simply a matter of drying out the control board?

Few things to do to mine this year:
Paint job; new tyres; find and fix hydraulic drip from one of the drive motors

BTW - I have all the manuals if you ever need further information

 

[hiluxman]

So glad that you fixed yer dumper
Followed this with interest because I have an HD850 - which is exactly the same with a slightly smaller skip.
Mine has been pretty bombproof for the last 3 years or so
Guess I've been lucky with water getting in so far - taped over those blank holes on the dash
So, to fix the problem was it simply a matter of drying out the control board?

Few things to do to mine this year:
Paint job; new tyres; find and fix hydraulic drip from one of the drive motors

BTW - I have all the manuals if you ever need further information

I didnt do the repair myself, as its been mega busy here, but the problem was the wire from the control box to the solenoid on the tranmission pump. It has now been bypassed and has a switch in its place. Im told to think of the new switch as a park break switch.

I think they are brilliant little dumpers and this is the first time ive encounted problems with them

 

[LEONH16]

Thanks for that info. Ill look into this.

If you could send me a wiring diagram that would be great...even for future problems

Hi,

I know this thread is a few months old but hopefully you can help.

We have the same HD1000 with joystick control and it's lost forward and reverse too.

Linkage to pump is fine.

I'm thinking perhaps the problem is the same that you had, as Jd6820 suggested.

Can you confirm which is the Benford control box please? Is it the Anti-Start module (the white box with the 3 red led lights) that sits under the dash?

If so the red led in position 1 lights up when ignition is started but led 2 and 3 do not light up even when forward and reverse engaged.

Does this sound familiar or similar to your problem hiluxman?

Thanks in advance for your help here.

Cheers
Lee

 

[hiluxman]

Hi,

I know this thread is a few months old but hopefully you can help.

We have the same HD1000 with joystick control and it's lost forward and reverse too.

Linkage to pump is fine.

I'm thinking perhaps the problem is the same that you had, as Jd6820 suggested.

Can you confirm which is the Benford control box please? Is it the Anti-Start module (the white box with the 3 red led lights) that sits under the dash?

If so the red led in position 1 lights up when ignition is started but led 2 and 3 do not light up even when forward and reverse engaged.

Does this sound familiar or similar to your problem hiluxman?

Thanks in advance for your help here.

Cheers
Lee

Yes that sounds like it.

Unfortunatly i wasnt there when we got this sorted. But basically on top of the transmission pump is a solenoid which loses power from the control box so an easy way to test is to see if youve got power to the solenoid...if not put a temp feed to it and if it will then go forward/reverse then you have confirmed its the control box not releaseing the transmission lock solenoid.

 

[Routy56]

I'd say the Benford control box under the dash has gone a bit funny, it drives the solenoid under the foot plate (lhs) sat in the seat. This will cut the drive and is an issue I see all the time on these. You also need to check that the lights change on the benford controller as you move between neutral and fwd/rev on the stick as there are two magnetic reed type switches that report lever position back to the control box. If you are still struggling I can send you a diagram for the electrics. Good buses and pretty bombproof, apart from wet electrics when people punch through the blank holes in the dash allowing water ingress.

Hi there, got a similar intermittent problem with my HD850 which randomly cuts drive and slams on the brakes
So this cold windy afternoon, I'm down the barn stripping it down to investigate the wiring issues that these have.
Looks like it has been got at by the previous owner

The LEDs come on and off on the Anti-Start Module as they should when joystick is toggled.
However, some clown has pulled all the wires off the back of the circuit breakers AND the Emergency Stop Switch!
Linked and joined together and taped up. If you wiggle some connections then the LEDs flicker
So gonna order the parts to get it restored to original condition.
BUT need to know where the wire go.
Have got PDFs of the Workshop Manual and Parts List.
You mentioned that you have a wiring diagram - could you possibly send one over please?
Will also PM yer to make sure you get the message.
Once sorted, I'll update this thread to keep the interest going

 

[jd6820]

Hi there, got a similar intermittent problem with my HD850 which randomly cuts drive and slams on the brakes
So this cold windy afternoon, I'm down the barn stripping it down to investigate the wiring issues that these have.
Looks like it has been got at by the previous owner
View attachment 14847
The LEDs come on and off on the Anti-Start Module as they should when joystick is toggled.
However, some clown has pulled all the wires off the back of the circuit breakers AND the Emergency Stop Switch!
Linked and joined together and taped up. If you wiggle some connections then the LEDs flicker
So gonna order the parts to get it restored to original condition.
BUT need to know where the wire go.
Have got PDFs of the Workshop Manual and Parts List.
You mentioned that you have a wiring diagram - could you possibly send one over please?
Will also PM yer to make sure you get the message.
Once sorted, I'll update this thread to keep the interest going

Yeah I’ll send the info across when I get back to computer. Just welding a front into one of our trailers ready for a muck shift. Those resettable fuses alway give issues hence the bypass job. I carry them in my van cause you can nearly always guarantee they are at fault. Not in your case though it would seem... Emergency stop buttons do fail but less common. Quite often the reason for non start call outs. I land up and 5 secs later machines up and running.

I’ll put up a link to the fuses as they are dear from the main agent.

Regards,
Matt

 

[Routy56]

Yeah I’ll send the info across when I get back to computer. Just welding a front into one of our trailers ready for a muck shift. Those resettable fuses alway give issues hence the bypass job. I carry them in my van cause you can nearly always guarantee they are at fault. Not in your case though it would seem... Emergency stop buttons do fail but less common. Quite often the reason for non start call outs. I land up and 5 secs later machines up and running.

I’ll put up a link to the fuses as they are dear from the main agent.

Regards,
Matt

Thanks Matt
The advice from your experience is much appreciated
Looking forward to the link and information
Hope you’re finishing sorting out the trailer. I’ve now packed up for the day and putting my feet up

 

[jd6820]

Yeah called it a day at 20.30 and just had evening meal. Still an hour or twos work left on the trailer yet. But i'm gonna save that till tomorrow. What started as a small job to replace rotten metalwork has broken out to a refurbishment job. I'll probably post pictures when I'm finished. For anyone wanting to see the diagrams I've sent out then check the attachment in this post. Also the breakers used...

W54-XB1A4A10-10 | TE Connectivity 0 to +60 °C W54 Thermal Circuit Breaker - 1-Pole, Direct, 10A Current Rating, 1000 A, 250V ac, 50 V dc | RS

uk.rs-online.com

The wiring always seems to look like a rats nest under there. None of the connectors being water tight either! I generally start with drive faults by checking the output at the solenoid on the pump. Should see +12V in any position other than neutral, if I recall correctly. The wiring harness also has connections that go bad down the column itself so remove that panel too. You'll see the mass of connections about halfway down. Prime area for corrosion. Good place to start by sorting the bodged wires, I'd be following same route as you.

 

[Routy56]

Yeah called it a day at 20.30 and just had evening meal. Still an hour or twos work left on the trailer yet. But i'm gonna save that till tomorrow. What started as a small job to replace rotten metalwork has broken out to a refurbishment job. I'll probably post pictures when I'm finished. For anyone wanting to see the diagrams I've sent out then check the attachment in this post. Also the breakers used...

W54-XB1A4A10-10 | TE Connectivity 0 to +60 °C W54 Thermal Circuit Breaker - 1-Pole, Direct, 10A Current Rating, 1000 A, 250V ac, 50 V dc | RS

uk.rs-online.com

The wiring always seems to look like a rats nest under there. None of the connectors being water tight either! I generally start with drive faults by checking the output at the solenoid on the pump. Should see +12V in any position other than neutral, if I recall correctly. The wiring harness also has connections that go bad down the column itself so remove that panel too. You'll see the mass of connections about halfway down. Prime area for corrosion. Good place to start by sorting the bodged wires, I'd be following same route as you.

Matt - you are a star
Thanks for your help and advice not only for me but others with the same model(s)
I'll now be able to get it sorted.
Will post on this thread when done.
Good luck getting your trailers repairs done. No such thing as a quick job