Tb216 snapped dipper

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Brendan

Well-known member
Anyone come across an issue of the dipper snapping between the tipping link pin and bucket pin?

Machine is about 6ish years old and had a replacement dipper a about 3 years ago but not done much work and snapped again in the same place
 
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Brendan

Well-known member
IIRC these are a funny metal- a cast rather than welded. @Storrsy
Yeah my dad was saying it's cast, think he has someone welding this one up, can't be sleeved due to snapping right below pin. Not sure if they are going to weld an external plate.
Think it's best part of 1k for another replacement
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Yeah my dad was saying it's cast, think he has someone welding this one up, can't be sleeved due to snapping right below pin. Not sure if they are going to weld an external plate.
Think it's best part of 1k for another replacement
will be cast steel and very weldable .... is there room to put a wrap on top, around the tip and back under well beyond the pin boss ?
 
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Brendan

Well-known member
will be cast steel and very weldable .... is there room to put a wrap on top, around the tip and back under well beyond the pin boss ?
I should have got him to send a pic it looks like you should be able to get a plate on the front and back. As long as they do a decent full weld it should be good.
Was a pretty clean snap
 
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Brendan

Well-known member
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Brendan

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Storrsy

Storrsy

Well-known member
Yeah cast as had been said. I had two welders attempt to put a thumb on- the second was a very good welder- did a lovely job and was fine for about 2 mins- as we were chatting the weld suddenly crack off the dipper. Not saying it can’t be welded by someone who knows there stuff but personally knowing how volatile it was I’d get another dipper. I’m not sure if a tb016 dipper could be made to fit? Wouldn’t have thought it would take much to make that happen…
 
pettsy

pettsy

Well-known member
I’m not sure if a tb016 dipper could be made to fit? Wouldn’t have thought it would take much to make that happen…

Didn’t someone compare them a while ago and find they’re different?
 
Storrsy

Storrsy

Well-known member
Didn’t someone compare them a while ago and find they’re different?
Yeah think it was @Hg2702 . Not sure what the outcome was- I know someone told him they were different but not sure what it was or how easy it would be to modify it to fit?
 
JD450A

JD450A

Feral as Fk 🐾
Think we where comparing 015 dippers as they can be purchased on Ebay for £150..... I have one in the shed, I shall measure tommorow BUT I know the top geometry is different.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
IMG-20210703-WA0020.jpg

I'd certainly give that a go .... nowt to lose other than the time and effort .... deep vee-ed .... preheated, sequentially welded, add the additional flitches, with tapered tails and a full wrap round the nose (if you have the room), extending well beyond the link boss ... keep it warm whilst working on it - skin melting warm ... then bury it in a BIG pile of sawdust to cool slowly ..... obviously off the machine, so you can work down hand all the time and bury the welds in well ......... 7018 rods and make certain there are ZERO inclusions anywhere
 
Bri963

Bri963

Well-known member
X 2 on what Graham has written. If you’ve got an infra red thermometer, pre-heat to about 150-180 C. Keep it away from draughts. My only variation would be dry sand instead o sawdust - bit less flammable. 3.2 mm 7018, 118A if open root, then 120-125A fill, multiple runs rather than trying to do it with big rods. You get less stress build-up that way on something like this. Grind out after every pass.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
X 2 on what Graham has written. If you’ve got an infra red thermometer, pre-heat to about 150-180 C. Keep it away from draughts. My only variation would be dry sand instead o sawdust - bit less flammable. 3.2 mm 7018, 118A if open root, then 120-125A fill, multiple runs rather than trying to do it with big rods. You get less stress build-up that way on something like this. Grind out after every pass.
agree with the sand but it does cool a lot quicker ... just don't burn the shed down with the sawdust .... it retains the heat and slows the cooling process significantly.
deffo agree on the process and rod size selection, etc. .... see no reason why this can't be 'pulled off' successfully ... the thermometer's a neat idea, but you soon get the temperature idea as you lose your finger prints :LOL: ... and draughts are a big no no ... you do not want anything getting chilled
 
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Brendan

Well-known member
My dad lives up in Leeds, no idea who he has doing it and don't think they are removing the dipper so not too optimistic on it lasting or even working
 
Storrsy

Storrsy

Well-known member
My dad lives up in Leeds, no idea who he has doing it and don't think they are removing the dipper so not too optimistic on it lasting or even working
It won’t work unless someone knows exactly what they’re doing! Your average Jobbing welder probably won’t be good enough in my experience.
 
GazCro

GazCro

Well-known member
Out of interest you say this is the second you've had snap did the other break in the same place?
 
Bri963

Bri963

Well-known member
agree with the sand but it does cool a lot quicker ... just don't burn the shed down with the sawdust .... it retains the heat and slows the cooling process significantly.
deffo agree on the process and rod size selection, etc. .... see no reason why this can't be 'pulled off' successfully ... the thermometer's a neat idea, but you soon get the temperature idea as you lose your finger prints :LOL: ... and draughts are a big no no ... you do not want anything getting chilled
Fingers are okay up to ten runs, unless you’re from the south-west and have an extra couple to play with.
 
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