Routy56 - can you just....

[Routy56]

One thing we adults (I use the term loosely) forget is how much closer kids eyes are to where the action is happening.

Yep exactly that - you should have seen Jack watching how I swung the sledge
Sooooo, amongst the other kit I have ordered his own set of DeWalt safety specs

 

[Diggerdavey]

More great advice
And yep bought a pack of thins the other day.
That old wedge was my grandfathers - he'd be proud of me
View attachment 55233
Fred Rout was an engineer for the Royal Eastern Counties Hospital in Colchester.
He helped built submarines in WW1
As a young boy whenever I saw him he always wore a bow tie, even with bib and brace overalls

You can definitely see you and him are from the same family

 

[charlie2]

No such luck
It has the more complex Haldex unit as described by this Haldex Repair company
We have given the gearbox another oil change and the vibration is still there.
My own 'feel' is a 'scrabbling' like it's stuck in 4WD
Gonna have to give this loads more thought before the Main Stealers are let loose on it

i have a skoda yeti with 4wd that uses a haldex coupling in the rear diff it has a rubber type flex plate between rear prop and diff i have heard the flex plate/rubber coupling can cause vibrations if they start delaminating. on the yeti the haldex is in the diff casing but uses its own oil the diff is separate with its own oil. are your tyres all the same size? tbh the haldex and rear drive on mine is all self contained and operates completly on its own with no driver input at all. i do know that if the haldex oil and the filter is not serviced properly the filter can clog but i think that would only result in no 4wd but it could i guess be the other way around, the haldex has its own pump to pressurize and lock the driven and friction plates resulting in 4wd later models of the haldex i think 5 onwards do not have a serviceable filter. i cant get your haldex link to open but think i have read up on their site. i have had no problems at all with the haldex stuff on mine. would it be easy to remove the rear propshaft just to see if its then ok. on the yeti its hard to do as its spigoted each end and the rear diff assembly has to be loosened and moved back about 20mm. i think the car your mentioning has the haldex 4 coupling that has a replacable filter i changed tho oil and filter myself it was fairly easy probably a youtube one i looked up before i did it, i think you can unplug the haldex control unit thats fitted to the unit to try and see if the snatching/whatever goes away there may be a valve in the haldex pump that blocks but i have no experience of that. a proper diagnostic read out may show any faults but you would need a decent type code reader. haldex repairs seem to be a decent company that are cheaper than dealers. i would be interested to know the outcome whatever it is. plenty of independants that specialize in lr/rr i doubt its an uncommon fault. good luck.

 

[Canal Navvy]

i have a skoda yeti with 4wd that uses a haldex coupling in the rear diff it has a rubber type flex plate between rear prop and diff i have heard the flex plate/rubber coupling can cause vibrations if they start delaminating. on the yeti the haldex is in the diff casing but uses its own oil the diff is separate with its own oil. are your tyres all the same size? tbh the haldex and rear drive on mine is all self contained and operates completly on its own with no driver input at all. i do know that if the haldex oil and the filter is not serviced properly the filter can clog but i think that would only result in no 4wd but it could i guess be the other way around, the haldex has its own pump to pressurize and lock the driven and friction plates resulting in 4wd later models of the haldex i think 5 onwards do not have a serviceable filter. i cant get your haldex link to open but think i have read up on their site. i have had no problems at all with the haldex stuff on mine. would it be easy to remove the rear propshaft just to see if its then ok. on the yeti its hard to do as its spigoted each end and the rear diff assembly has to be loosened and moved back about 20mm. i think the car your mentioning has the haldex 4 coupling that has a replacable filter i changed tho oil and filter myself it was fairly easy probably a youtube one i looked up before i did it, i think you can unplug the haldex control unit thats fitted to the unit to try and see if the snatching/whatever goes away there may be a valve in the haldex pump that blocks but i have no experience of that. a proper diagnostic read out may show any faults but you would need a decent type code reader. haldex repairs seem to be a decent company that are cheaper than dealers. i would be interested to know the outcome whatever it is. plenty of independants that specialize in lr/rr i doubt its an uncommon fault. good luck.

Tyre size is what I'd be checking , not just what is written on the sidewall but the actual rolling radius. Marking the tyres and driving dead straight and checking if they are looking to be doing the same revolutions is how we used to do it ..... the more modern can ask the ABS sensors what they think

 

[Routy56]

i have a skoda yeti with 4wd that uses a haldex coupling in the rear diff it has a rubber type flex plate between rear prop and diff i have heard the flex plate/rubber coupling can cause vibrations if they start delaminating. on the yeti the haldex is in the diff casing but uses its own oil the diff is separate with its own oil. are your tyres all the same size? tbh the haldex and rear drive on mine is all self contained and operates completly on its own with no driver input at all. i do know that if the haldex oil and the filter is not serviced properly the filter can clog but i think that would only result in no 4wd but it could i guess be the other way around, the haldex has its own pump to pressurize and lock the driven and friction plates resulting in 4wd later models of the haldex i think 5 onwards do not have a serviceable filter. i cant get your haldex link to open but think i have read up on their site. i have had no problems at all with the haldex stuff on mine. would it be easy to remove the rear propshaft just to see if its then ok. on the yeti its hard to do as its spigoted each end and the rear diff assembly has to be loosened and moved back about 20mm. i think the car your mentioning has the haldex 4 coupling that has a replacable filter i changed tho oil and filter myself it was fairly easy probably a youtube one i looked up before i did it, i think you can unplug the haldex control unit thats fitted to the unit to try and see if the snatching/whatever goes away there may be a valve in the haldex pump that blocks but i have no experience of that. a proper diagnostic read out may show any faults but you would need a decent type code reader. haldex repairs seem to be a decent company that are cheaper than dealers. i would be interested to know the outcome whatever it is. plenty of independants that specialize in lr/rr i doubt its an uncommon fault. good luck.

Thanks Charlie for taking the time to explain the reasoning on getting this fault diagnosed correctly
The Evoque is in daily use by by daughter who loves it.
So yes reading the Haldex Repair guys web site they certainly know what they are doing.
So later today, Rod's is going to pop the car over to my workshop and get it over the pit.
We are simply going the pull the plug off the Haldex ECU and test drive it (ignoring dash lights etc)
If the vibration remains then it's more than likely to be a drive shaft on it's way out.
Rod favours the NSF
BUT if the vibration goes then we can focus on the Haldex. It's the Gen 4 model.
And start with an oil and filter change and go from there

 

[charlie2]

Thanks Charlie for taking the time to explain the reasoning on getting this fault diagnosed correctly
The Evoque is in daily use by by daughter who loves it.
So yes reading the Haldex Repair guys web site they certainly know what they are doing.
So later today, Rod's is going to pop the car over to my workshop and get it over the pit.
We are simply going the pull the plug off the Haldex ECU and test drive it (ignoring dash lights etc)
If the vibration remains then it's more than likely to be a drive shaft on it's way out.
Rod favours the NSF
BUT if the vibration goes then we can focus on the Haldex. It's the Gen 4 model.
And start with an oil and filter change and go from there

oil and filter change is fairly easy to do just make sure its the haldex and not the rear diff. i have read the haldex 4 is better than the five as it has a proper filter and a screen on the pump. its a bit fiddly but not that difficult, i knew the freelander used haldex had no idea the rr evoque did though, hope its easy to sort for you.

 

[Stroppymonkey]

Spot on
Especially if you do jobs like I was on today- through a house with grey carpets. Bloody handy being able to slip your boots of at the door with your hands full....

Ah-I’ve moved onto something even better. Solid Gear Pheonix GTX with boa lace system. Best boots I’ve ever had. I’ve just about worn out my 3rd pair in 5 years and use pair 4 for best and pair 5 are sat waiting to break in. Gortex lined and good enough for ground works or customers houses.

 

[Stroppymonkey]

Yep exactly that - you should have seen Jack watching how I swung the sledge
Sooooo, amongst the other kit I have ordered his own set of DeWalt safety specs

Goggles for cutting and grinding and specs for other stuff. (If you want to get pedantic)

 

[Routy56]

oil and filter change is fairly easy to do just make sure its the haldex and not the rear diff. i have read the haldex 4 is better than the five as it has a proper filter and a screen on the pump. its a bit fiddly but not that difficult, i knew the freelander used haldex had no idea the rr evoque did though, hope its easy to sort for you.

Yep agree with looking after the Holder Gen 4 with the service kit
We will do that in due course because things have moved on.....
Last night Rod was over at my workshop......

My brother and neighbours also joined us

Late afternoon today we had it back over my pit for a proper old school diagnosis
My brother was here a retired time served mechanic
And we found by jacking up both front wheels and giving each a good old rotary shake that the inner CV joint of the front left driveshaft is knackered
It’s what I said all along but was put distracted by all the so called experts second guessing it
New driveshaft on order from good old Amazon.
Guess what we are doing on Saturday

 

[Routy56]

Ah-I’ve moved onto something even better. Solid Gear Pheonix GTX with boa lace system. Best boots I’ve ever had. I’ve just about worn out my 3rd pair in 5 years and use pair 4 for best and pair 5 are sat waiting to break in. Gortex lined and good enough for ground works or customers houses.

Just googled them and they certainly look like the dogs bollocks
Something nice to purchase before 5 April '24

 

[Routy56]

Goggles for cutting and grinding and specs for other stuff. (If you want to get pedantic)

Looks like I too need to go on the "Abrasive wheels" training course

 

[Lancs Lad]

Ah-I’ve moved onto something even better. Solid Gear Pheonix GTX with boa lace system. Best boots I’ve ever had. I’ve just about worn out my 3rd pair in 5 years and use pair 4 for best and pair 5 are sat waiting to break in. Gortex lined and good enough for ground works or customers houses.

But comfy as Ive got the gortex trainer style version for "tidy" stuff

 

[Stroppymonkey]

But comfy as Ive got the gortex trainer style version for "tidy" stuff

I wear my older ones for playing with mud and kerosene

 

[Routy56]

I wear my older ones for playing with mud and kerosene

That'll be when yer dealing with the consequences of an oil spill.
Worst nightmare having a full plastic tank of zero let go
Neighbours very old plastic tank is sagging and due for replacement soon.
Told them but they're gonna have to wait for the tank to empty
As a plumber guy with diggers have you dealt with many environmental clean ups?

 

[charlie2]

Yep agree with looking after the Holder Gen 4 with the service kit
We will do that in due course because things have moved on.....
Last night Rod was over at my workshop......
View attachment 55317


View attachment 55318
My brother and neighbours also joined us

Late afternoon today we had it back over my pit for a proper old school diagnosis
My brother was here a retired time served mechanic
And we found by jacking up both front wheels and giving each a good old rotary shake that the inner CV joint of the front left driveshaft is knackered
It’s what I said all along but was put distracted by all the so called experts second guessing it
New driveshaft on order from good old Amazon.
Guess what we are doing on Saturday

thats good that you have found the culprit should be an easy enough fix i guess the evoque has independant suspension all around then. i have never taken much notice of them before so much like a freelander running gear rather than original range rover.

 

[Stroppymonkey]

That'll be when yer dealing with the consequences of an oil spill.
Worst nightmare having a full plastic tank of zero let go
Neighbours very old plastic tank is sagging and due for replacement soon.
Told them but they're gonna have to wait for the tank to empty
As a plumber guy with diggers have you dealt with many environmental clean ups?

No... not too many. It's either hushed up or goes through insurance who use big boys to sort. We get involved occasionally on jobs. I'd like to do more but detest travelling more than 15 miles from home for work!

 

[Routy56]

So yesterday we did the 'fix' on the Range Rover Evoque vibration.
Basic spannering really with very little on YouTube or Forums for advice.
Me thinks that owner of these bouncy cars would rather pay Main Stealers than get their hands dirty
Found this little gem, but don't blink Evoque Drive Shaft Replacement


Loads of these up for grabs at bargain prices because they are always going wrong

Jack takes the NSF wheel off

The replacement was a 'Made in China' copy supplied and delivered by Amazon the next day.

The only difference was the hub nut was a slimmer version without the attached washer. This caused it to sit further into the recess AND my 36mm 3/4" drive socket was too fat to get in there and give a good old tighten. So simply used the old nut (I know it's single use) torque up a staked well.
Job jobbed and road tested, all OK before lunch. Rod and Nicola are pleased as punch

Some of Rod's mate's said we should have got a 'genuine JLR part' but at prices between £400-£700 odd for genuine it made sense.
And the local Main Stealer where it's going for a recall quoted £250 for a diagnosis

 

[Routy56]

Early Christmas present to self - nice little 10" 'top handle' job.
Assembled yesterday and due for testing today.....

….bought this because my 029 is a bit too heavy to use on trees up the cherry picker

 

[V8Druid]

Loads of these up for grabs at bargain prices because they are always going wrong
The replacement was a 'Made in China' copy supplied and delivered by Amazon the next day.
....... used the old nut (I know it's single use) torque up a staked well.
Some of Rod's mate's said we should have got a 'genuine JLR part' but at prices between £400-£700 odd for genuine it made sense.
And the local Main Stealer where it's going for a recall quoted £250 for a diagnosis

wouldn't touch one with a barge pole - as said continually K.I.A. /M.I.A.
tell me what isn't made in China these days Dave ..
single use is the latest method of charging yet more for tish ....
ain't gonna move once staked
Rod's mates could've offered to pay for the part then which'll almost certainly be the same component with the ''Made in China'' label removed and reboxed
get some use out of it and let it be some one else's headache
what's the recall for? wrong colour paint on the badge??

 

[Routy56]

wouldn't touch one with a barge pole - as said continually K.I.A. /M.I.A.
tell me what isn't made in China these days Dave ..
single use is the latest method of charging yet more for tish ....
ain't gonna move once staked
Rod's mates could've offered to pay for the part then which'll almost certainly be the same component with the ''Made in China'' label removed and reboxed
get some use out of it and let it be some one else's headache
what's the recall for? wrong colour paint on the badge??

Recall is for the bolts from the steering shaft onto the rack to be replaced. Apparently they can sheer causing complete steering failure