diggerjones
Well-known member
I did think these worked well
How did they compare cost wise to hollow blocks?
I didn't have much to do with price sorry. I think every job would be different. There's lots of different scenarios. If you've got a grab like i used, it makes sense. Once you've layed the first coarse level, your sorted.How did they compare cost wise to hollow blocks?
Looks like he's done it with paper bags in the past .... gonna be disappointed with poly,s
Would you batter it back or go plumb?There's no hard and fast rule with these really.
Up to 3ft isn't too risky unless its holding back a driveway or inside the good old 45 degree rule of thumb from the house. Over 3ft high and for me its engineer time EVERY time. Plenty of customers don't want to pay the money for an engineer design - well they aren't the people you want to be working for!
Don't underestimate the part drainage plays in retaining walls - plenty get pushed over by water more than the dirt behind them - always allow for some drainage.
For small walls like you are talking about, a general rule of 50/50 will see you right. however high the wall is, that's how much steel or sleeper needs to be in the ground.
Precast concrete L sections or lego blocks can work well, but need a minimum of a 5t machine to handle them really.
I've also done crib walls, blockwork, hollow blocks, shuttered concrete etc but they have always had an engineer design them.
We are contractors - not designers. If you are ever unsure, get it designed. If the customer thinks you're crazy - you aren't. Its your risk otherwise at the end of the day and generally our gut feeling doesn't lie. I've walked away from quite a few who even after the design has come back and I've priced it still want me to do something cheaper! No chance mate find another idiot... which they often do![]()