doobin
Well-known member
I’ll have a try. To be fair the by the book way works but it’s such a faffDunno whether the way i do it on takeuchi as posted earlier would work?
I’ll have a try. To be fair the by the book way works but it’s such a faffDunno whether the way i do it on takeuchi as posted earlier would work?
trouble with the ISO A,s is they drop oil every time you couple/de-couple and collect scheiße like a magnet attracts metal ...... bloody cheap thoughI was thinking about changing the ones on my telehandler and grab to agricultural hydraulic fittings, you can just press the end against something if pressure builds up then and it'll release a bit of oil. Had a proper fight with them the other day and had to slacken hoses, my fault though I didn't fully close the grab when i took it off, left it maybe an inch up
Not as easy to wipe clean neither. We've got some caps and plugs for the ones on the front of the tractor after the last one got filled with compost and left filled for several years and rusted up.trouble with the ISO A,s is they drop oil every time you couple/de-couple and collect scheiße like a magnet attracts metal ...... bloody cheap though
Yes it would doob, actually put some pictures up the other month on here when this was talked about before. Did the same think on my first tilty. Sure Druid will be able to find the link. Found the pics, just a quick crack of the tee, and job sorted.do you reckon my tap idea would work?
That's as much work as unscrewing the couplings to bleed them! Flat plate woulnd't work either without lots of bracing- would just bend. Cast doesn't,This is a perenial problem. We need someone on here who is clever with metal to knock up a few sets at reasonable price. My thought would be to do away with the lever as that involves quite a lot of work and have the inner tube a threaded bar. then just have a nut on the end that you could tighten against the outer tube to pull the couplers together. Don't need those fancy castings either, just flat plate cut to size would work just as well.
The idea is not to let hydraulic fliud out on site contaminating the ground. Even if it is bio people don't like it.That's as much work as unscrewing the couplings to bleed them! Flat plate woulnd't work either without lots of bracing- would just bend. Cast doesn't,
I reckon that tool looks good value for money. But I can't be arse with having to carry yet another tool around with me, hence the tee idea.
I've tried 1inch ones, but they have several issues:I'm sure in bigger sizes of flat face coupling they do them the screw together rather than click in. Don't know about smaller sizes
V8Druid said:
try these
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Quick-On Coupling Pliers
With Quick-On Coupling Pliers you can close hydraulic couplings even when under high pressure. The patented principle is simple to use and the…
www.grube.eu![]()
decent price too inc VAT €209.00, but plus €15 shipping ... .... deffo Holp product as the images are as I recall from Holp's own website.
I think the worst part of it all is machine manufacturers can't get it sorted. Couple of years back i had a 20 ton doosan hired in with pecker and never had a single issue with releasing pressure in lines.
I have the screw FFs on the 'Drema ... took one set off in favor of plain FFs ...... they're a PITFA to use and still dribble oil ... as said, even with their own dedicated end caps, keeping them clean is hard work ... and cleaning them is even harder ..... just have the LARGE set left on her and they are bloody hard work to useI've tried 1inch ones, but they have several issues:
They only work as pairs, it is not mix and match so no good it you want to put something on a hire machine.
They are even more expensive than normal good flat faced couplers.
They have issues with muck getting in the thread making it diffiicult to turn.
This is a great idea - wouldn’t be too hard to have a switched cetop installation so you could depressurise at the touch of a button too! Luxury!!!If it’s a persistent problem, then a few tee‘s and a few quarter turn valves, place in the auxiliary lines, and plumbed into a drain line back to tank, would be a quick and easy way to release the pressure, the valves or hose wouldn’t need to be big, and not necessarily installed at the quick coupler, it could be done within the machine very neatly. This would be a no mess way of releasing the pressure.
if the pressure is in the attachment however, then it’s more difficul, but if a simple drain line as above was installed down to the dipper end, then a drain line could also be installed on the attachment, again with quarter turn valves. Bloody lot of faffing around though. Just depends how much of a problem it is and how often.