Project 8 3CX stopping and starting.

[Gecko]

I may, could anyone give me a link to a decent wiring diagram for my Project 8 3CX please ?

A "decent" wiring diag - your being picky

Have a look at http://www.classicmachinery.net/
There are several manuals to choose from covering the 400k~460k serial range.
Go to the downloads section -> Eathmoving Equip -> JCB -> (2 on Page1, 1 on Page 4)

 

[Scraperman]

Yep thats a project 8, looks quite tidy too and a Nice turbo version sitemaster plus, They are still relatively easy to work on, Make sure you drain the slewbox and refill it regularly they get water in them and when you go to drain them you get a load of sludge running out very slowly!
Which wiring diagram are you looking for.

Thank you. I am looking for a complete diagram if possible. The machine hardly does any work nowadays (a bit like it's owner) Both are growing old gracefully - I hope ! . I have drained the slew box a few times. As an aside, here is a poor photograph of my first JCB. I had used a digger that went on the back of a tractor before that. This was a 1963 JCB 3. Based on a Fordson Super Major skid unit but without the diff. lock. No door on this model, you lifted the roof and climbed in through the back. You had to be very careful when doing this though, if you caught the boom raise/lower/slew lever it would swiftly help you up or crush you against the slide rails !!! I bought it s/h in 1969 and paid £350 for it. I think I started off charging £1.50/hour but of course it was £1-10/- in those days.

 

[Scraperman]

A "decent" wiring diag - your being picky

Have a look at http://www.classicmachinery.net/
There are several manuals to choose from covering the 400k~460k serial range.
Go to the downloads section -> Eathmoving Equip -> JCB -> (2 on Page1, 1 on Page 4)

Thank you for that. I'll have a look through that later. I am actually registered on that site.

 

[topkit]

Ok nice old JCB 3 there I used to play on those as a kid!
I have the Little red JCB book with service data from 1992 onwards, That covers most machines, I have wiring diagrames for 3cx with Syncro Shuttle from machine number 400001-430000 for and another diagram for machine numbers, also diagram for the powershift transmission, There are several sections covering various Circuit / parts of the digger.

 

[Scraperman]

Ok nice old JCB 3 there I used to play on those as a kid!
I have the Little red JCB book with service data from 1992 onwards, That covers most machines, I have wiring diagrames for 3cx with Syncro Shuttle from machine number 400001-430000 for and another diagram for machine numbers, also diagram for the powershift transmission, There are several sections covering various Circuit / parts of the digger.

Thank you for that. I discovered that if I clicked on the link sent by Gecko you could view it but if you download it then you can't rotate any images unless you have the usual permission from Adobe but I found what I wanted thank you.

 

[Scraperman]

Sorry Guys, you are being so helpful so I would like to ask another question if I may please. While I was working on the injection pump solenoid I noticed something else that could be on the same cable. The parts site tells me it is a "Switch temperature" and it is screwed into the front of the cylinder head. But then, in the thermostat housing, there is what looks like a normal temperature sender only this time it is labelled as "Sender temperature" which I presume sends the signal to the temperature guage in the dash. Can the "Switch temperature" in the cylinder head also trigger the injector pump solenoid so that if the engine gets too hot it will shut it down ?

 

[V8Druid]

Sorry Guys, you are being so helpful so I would like to ask another question if I may please. While I was working on the injection pump solenoid I noticed something else that could be on the same cable. The parts site tells me it is a "Switch temperature" and it is screwed into the front of the cylinder head. But then, in the thermostat housing, there is what looks like a normal temperature sender only this time it is labelled as "Sender temperature" which I presume sends the signal to the temperature guage in the dash. Can the "Switch temperature" in the cylinder head also trigger the injector pump solenoid so that if the engine gets too hot it will shut it down ?

possible I suppose ... most Hodna motors have similar for low oil

 

[V8Druid]

Thank you for that. I discovered that if I clicked on the link sent by Gecko you could view it but if you download it then you can't rotate any images unless you have the usual permission from Adobe but I found what I wanted thank you.

save the page you want as a Jpeg, then you can rotate to your heart's content

 

[topkit]

Hopefully this works, this is for S/N MACHINES 4300 ONWARDS There is a water temp switch and a water temp sensor could they be what you have been looking at.

 

[topkit]

This one is for machines s/n 400001/430000.

 

[Scraperman]

This one is for machines s/n 400001/430000.

Thank you, this is the one for my machine according to the serial nos. When I downloaded it and viewed it I increased the size so that it was much larger than one screen meaning that the diagram was in 2 halves and then stuck them together with Photoshop. Likewise the key. I can then see it all at a much larger scale when I need to. In fact, I might even print it all out because I can print at A3.

 

[topkit]

Glad to be of help, good luck with it all, I had a 93 sitemaster and the long hose that runs along side the left hand side of the engine was weeping at the waterpump, when I was using the machine the buzzer went of in the cab warning high temp, I had to leave it to cool down then refill and get it back up to where i could work on it, The problem was the metal of the water outlet was corroding where the rubber hose fitted onto it, but after a good clean up and a new hose the problem was cured. But a working temp gauge and warning buzzer is a must!

 

[V8Druid]

Glad to be of help, good luck with it all, I had a 93 sitemaster and the long hose that runs along side the left hand side of the engine was weeping at the waterpump, when I was using the machine the buzzer went of in the cab warning high temp, I had to leave it to cool down then refill and get it back up to where i could work on it, The problem was the metal of the water outlet was corroding where the rubber hose fitted onto it, but after a good clean up and a new hose the problem was cured. But a working temp gauge and warning buzzer is a must!

that's probably what the 'switch' is then that @Scraperman was talking about .. switch for the buzzer

 

[Scraperman]

Glad to be of help, good luck with it all, I had a 93 sitemaster and the long hose that runs along side the left hand side of the engine was weeping at the waterpump, when I was using the machine the buzzer went of in the cab warning high temp, I had to leave it to cool down then refill and get it back up to where i could work on it, The problem was the metal of the water outlet was corroding where the rubber hose fitted onto it, but after a good clean up and a new hose the problem was cured. But a working temp gauge and warning buzzer is a must!

Thank you. This is all making sense now and when I think about it it could be potentially disasterous to close the injection pump down because the engine was getting a bit hot. Makes much more sense to set a buzzer off in the cab. If you were driving along a road at least you would stand a chance of getting on a verge or something similar rather than just stopping on the highway.

 

[Scraperman]

that's probably what the 'switch' is then that @Scraperman was talking about .. switch for the buzzer

Yes, I think it is. Here is a photograph of the switch or maybe it's just a sender. Right at the front of the cylinder head next to No.1 injector. I know that cable looks a bit iffy on the top of it but can't see how it all comes apart.

 

[V8Druid]

Yes, I think it is. Here is a photograph of the switch or maybe it's just a sender. Right at the front of the cylinder head next to No.1 injector. I know that cable looks a bit iffy on the top of it but can't see how it all comes apart.

View attachment 44569

there's a spring clip retaining it ... can just see the ends of the U shaped clip either side in that pic .. put a finger over the back of the plug and squeeze the wire clip into the body .. should then pull off ... moulded jobbie though .. not much you can do with that, other than install a couple of 3mm spade lugs to replace it ... might be able to get a crimp/solder on replacement ... pretty std plug that .. the youngsters on here'll know


edit
just found these

TE Connectivity, Junior Timer Automotive Connector Female Grey Cable 2 Way Crimp Termination 963040-2 | RS

uk.rs-online.com

and these

282762-1 | TE Connectivity, Junior Power Timer Automotive Connector Socket 2 Way | RS

uk.rs-online.com

 

[Scraperman]

there's a spring clip retaining it ... can just see the ends of the U shaped clip either side in that pic .. put a finger over the back of the plug and squeeze the wire clip into the body .. should then pull off ... moulded jobbie though .. not much you can do with that, other than install a couple of 3mm spade lugs to replace it ... might be able to get a crimp/solder on replacement ... pretty std plug that .. the youngsters on here'll know

Sorry, I worded my previous post incorrectly. I knew how to take the cover off the switch, it's just that the cables on mine look as if they could do with a bit of tidying up. I could put new spade connectors on but I think it would be better if I could get that shroud to stop inside the cap somehow.

 

[Gecko]

You can something like a jewelers screwdriver to fold the barbs in on each terminal. Once out, you can slip the wires through a strain relief boot and reassemble.

That said, it'd probably be easier 'not' to pull the connector apart and just wrap it in tape.

To save you some time searching, these are: EV1 connectors.

 

[Scraperman]

You can something like a jewelers screwdriver to fold the barbs in on each terminal. Once out, you can slip the wires through a strain relief boot and reassemble.

That said, it'd probably be easier 'not' to pull the connector apart and just wrap it in tape.

To save you some time searching, these are: EV1 connectors.

Thank you for that. I will have a Google for EV1 connectors. But, and because I am a dab hand at "in the field" repairs of an agricultural nature I might resort to the old and trusted "Insulting" <sp> tape It will match some that is already on the machine.

 

[Shovelhands]

Thank you for that. I will have a Google for EV1 connectors. But, and because I am a dab hand at "in the field" repairs of an agricultural nature I might resort to the old and trusted "Insulting" <sp> tape It will match some that is already on the machine.

Some self amalgamating tape might be a better choice to seal it up, won’t be as pretty as the proper boot, but probably just as watertight. However, if that wiring harness has a loose tubular sheath on it then you need to be sure it can’t get moisture in it from the other end? In that case it’s probably best left as it is?