Pipe laser

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Digger126

New member
When building a manhole, who prefers to put there stumps in first and build the manhole and put the laser in pipe later, or do you start by putting laser on a block
 
Silversabre

Silversabre

Well-known member
When building a manhole, who prefers to put there stumps in first and build the manhole and put the laser in pipe later, or do you start by putting laser on a block
Always build the manhole, check the stubs as could be soffit to soffit in change in diameter then set grade as I rarely see a drawing with correct gradients between manholes.
As don't allow for half of manhole diameters in horizontal distance and rarely allow for fall over the channel

If your on 100mm need a leica piper 100, imex or geofennel that will fit the pipe. Otherwise it's a topcon, spectra that 150mm minimum pipe diameter.

As a site engineer I always set the gradient and then have a tape on the laser with the setting also if there going to be taking it in and out over a few days doing the run.
 
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Digger126

New member
I’ve seen people doing it different ways, some people prefer to like you say get your stubs in first etc, I’ve also seen people out there laser on a block centre off manhole set at invert, the pipe laser sits on the block, they then put there first full length in and drop back on the rocker and stump. I’ve also seen people especially on larger size pipes, to again put their laser on a block and use that to get their stump on line and grade, then build the manhole. What’s your preference
 
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Digger126

New member
Also you mentioned you rarely allow for fall over the Chanel’s. So if the pipes are same diameter, do you try keep the channel virtually flat. Only reason I say this as I’ve worked with engineers who like to put bit of fall on channel particularly foul to stop things from hanging about
 
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