jd6820
Well-known member
Yeah definitely check the cylinder head in particular between the valves for cracks. Looks like a bit of soot between 1 and 2 maybe a head gasket leak?
V8Druid
do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
you mean here ... did look at it, but hard to tell in a pic .....
Rob'd've spotted it if it was, I'm sure
or just steam pressurising the water jacket
R
Rob65
Well-known member
I’ll pick up gaskets for it today whilst I’m out and about and then have a closer look at it over the weekend. I have dye penetrant spray here so if I suspect any cracking I can test for that.
I have various methods at my disposal to check for flatness.
Quickest would be an engineers straight edge and a thin strip of paper. Bridge the straight edge over the paper and pull the paper. If it’s trapped it’s ok, if it slides out sumut ain’t flat. Alternatively I could set the head up on my cast iron surface plate, gasket face upwards and run a dial test indicator over it.
If it’s not flat I can either try the flat sandpaper trick or find a way to machine it flat. I don’t think it will quite fit on my milling machine as it only has 16 inches of table travel. I could possibly grab it in the 4 jaw chuck on my big lathe or if not I can mount it to the lathe face plate. The important thing will be finding a way to clamp the head without flexing it.
This whole business has got far more involved that I wanted it to but either do it properly or not at all is generally my motto.
The tin work on the machine also needs at a minimum, some cleaning up / repairing but more likely fabricating replacement followed by shiney tish.
Druid- getting a disk at the bolt heads was out due to space to get at them. I was able to get a grip on the rivnuts with a pair of good old fashioned ‘Mole Grips’ and then break the bolts of with a spanner on the bolt head.
It’s all moving forwards, it just means I won’t be doing what I had intended to be doing this weekend.
I have various methods at my disposal to check for flatness.
Quickest would be an engineers straight edge and a thin strip of paper. Bridge the straight edge over the paper and pull the paper. If it’s trapped it’s ok, if it slides out sumut ain’t flat. Alternatively I could set the head up on my cast iron surface plate, gasket face upwards and run a dial test indicator over it.
If it’s not flat I can either try the flat sandpaper trick or find a way to machine it flat. I don’t think it will quite fit on my milling machine as it only has 16 inches of table travel. I could possibly grab it in the 4 jaw chuck on my big lathe or if not I can mount it to the lathe face plate. The important thing will be finding a way to clamp the head without flexing it.
This whole business has got far more involved that I wanted it to but either do it properly or not at all is generally my motto.
The tin work on the machine also needs at a minimum, some cleaning up / repairing but more likely fabricating replacement followed by shiney tish.
Druid- getting a disk at the bolt heads was out due to space to get at them. I was able to get a grip on the rivnuts with a pair of good old fashioned ‘Mole Grips’ and then break the bolts of with a spanner on the bolt head.
It’s all moving forwards, it just means I won’t be doing what I had intended to be doing this weekend.
Mick-the-fitter
It’s what I do!
Looks like number two(middle) has been burning coolant! New head gasket, follow tightening torque rotation when re-fitting,
Mick-the-fitter
It’s what I do!
Gecko
Well-known member
this area looks a bit iffy
how does it look on the gasket?
how does it look on the gasket?
R
Rob65
Well-known member
Mick, what are the give away signs that’s it was burning coolant, was it the white ash on the head.
I’ve ordered a new head gasket as I was not able to find one from a local supplier. It’ll hopefully arrive on Tuesday.
Mick-the-fitter
It’s what I do!
At the moment hopeful is generally a very used word when ordering parts! Yes white stain on the pistons and valves.
Regy53
I like cake
have you tried turning it on and off again
R
Rob65
Well-known member
Ok, it’s update time. This has turned in to a much larger undertaking that I originally expected. This is a pain as this generator is only used for things like loading and unloading the electric Brokk machines, it does not go to sites and earn its keep.
The first job since the last report was to repair the tin worm. All the rotten sections and the bottom panel were cut out and replaced with new steel.
I figured poor Druid has enough health issues and that adding high blood pressure to the list was more than my conscience could handle so everything got a couple of coats of shiny tish so he will not get excited about a job only being half done.
I then had to go away to Shetland for a week working which stopped this project.
Got the head on and everything else back together this weekend but could not get the fuel system to bleed.
I took the stop solenoid off and problem solved, fuel at the injectors.
I ran out of time to do any more with it today. Im not sure if it’s a duff solenoid of if it’s a relay problem as it’s all on a timer and you only get a free second before it powers down if the engine is not running. The solenoid vibrates when power is applied but the plunger does not pull back. When pushed with the power on, the plunger goes back and stays back.
Does anyone happen to know what resistance the solenoid coils should be?
I’ve got the figures of 30 ohms for the running coil and about 4 ohms for the pull back coil in my head but can’t find this anywhere in the manual or on the internet.
The next question beyond this is tjat there appears to be lots of solenoids available on eBay for Yanmar engines. There are lots of different part numbers quoted but the pictures look the same. Are the same solenoids used on lots of different engines?
I figured poor Druid has enough health issues and that adding high blood pressure to the list was more than my conscience could handle so everything got a couple of coats of shiny tish so he will not get excited about a job only being half done.
I then had to go away to Shetland for a week working which stopped this project.
Got the head on and everything else back together this weekend but could not get the fuel system to bleed.
I took the stop solenoid off and problem solved, fuel at the injectors.
I ran out of time to do any more with it today. Im not sure if it’s a duff solenoid of if it’s a relay problem as it’s all on a timer and you only get a free second before it powers down if the engine is not running. The solenoid vibrates when power is applied but the plunger does not pull back. When pushed with the power on, the plunger goes back and stays back.
Does anyone happen to know what resistance the solenoid coils should be?
I’ve got the figures of 30 ohms for the running coil and about 4 ohms for the pull back coil in my head but can’t find this anywhere in the manual or on the internet.
The next question beyond this is tjat there appears to be lots of solenoids available on eBay for Yanmar engines. There are lots of different part numbers quoted but the pictures look the same. Are the same solenoids used on lots of different engines?
pettsy
Well-known member
Stop Solenoid for Yanmar 3TNE & 3TNV Engines - 119653-77953
Overview: This 12 V stop solenoid (part number 119653-77953) is a non-genuine replacement for Yanmar 3TNE and 3TNV diesel engines. Built with a robust metal body, fixed mounting bracket and a positive-acting plunger, it cuts fuel
www.lsengineers.co.uk
R
Rob65
Well-known member
Finally found time to finish sorting this thing out.
Long story short, the wiring was full of dirty and corroded connections, each one causing the odd volt or two drop here and there. As soon as I fixed one the next one showed itself. It’s all back together now and working.
The only thing that needs doing now is an oil change but I’m not brave enough to touch anything in case it stops working again.
Thanks to everyone for the help and advice.
Long story short, the wiring was full of dirty and corroded connections, each one causing the odd volt or two drop here and there. As soon as I fixed one the next one showed itself. It’s all back together now and working.
The only thing that needs doing now is an oil change but I’m not brave enough to touch anything in case it stops working again.
Thanks to everyone for the help and advice.
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