Led lights

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evanstrev

New member
Hi, tried installing some sparex work lights on to a 13t 360 (24v) only to find that they pulsed on/off as soon as I turned the ignition on and when engine was running too but worked fine when switched on! Same issues when wired into wiper circuit but they worked ok off batteries and on other 12v machines! Now I know they're cheap chinese crap but is there anything I could do/buy to make them work properly?!!
 
craig

craig

Well-known member
What machine is it?
It sounds like it has can bus wiring, you could try wiring some resistors in, or use the machines light circuit switching a relay for the lights.
 
craig

craig

Well-known member
What machine is it?
It sounds like it has can bus wiring, you could try wiring some resistors in, or use the machines light circuit switching a relay for the lights.
Not so much as can bus up to the lights themselves, but to a lighting module, or all the control switches go to a central control unit, which then goes to the lamps.
If you put a meter (ideally a scope) on the light wires, you'll probably find a pulse of around 5 volts, which is enough to light the led, not enough for a halogen though.
 
E

evanstrev

New member
What machine is it?
It sounds like it has can bus wiring, you could try wiring some resistors in, or use the machines light circuit switching a relay for the lights.
It's a 2004 js130 groundworker spec!
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
they're being triggered by cross talking wires inducing a voltage in their supply line .... put a 'snubber' across the supply line to them .... had the same issue on my outside lights on me shed a while ago when I installed 'em
could probably find much cheaper than these as only on 24V
 
Shovelhands

Shovelhands

Well-known member
If I’m not mistaken the wiring is permanently live, its the negative that is switched.

A ballast load resistor might do the trick, or as has been suggested, possibly use the original wiring to activate a relay and make up a new loom from the relay to the lamps.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
If I’m not mistaken the wiring is permanently live, its the negative that is switched.

A ballast load resistor might do the trick, or as has been suggested, possibly use the original wiring to activate a relay and make up a new loom from the relay to the lamps.
snubber'll work, whichever side is switched
 
E

evanstrev

New member
If I’m not mistaken the wiring is permanently live, its the negative that is switched.

A ballast load resistor might do the trick, or as has been suggested, possibly use the original wiring to activate a relay and make up a new loom from the relay to the lamps.
Hi Shovelhands, yes getting 20+v on feed/red wire with ignition on so you're not mistaken by the looks of it!!
 
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