Leaky levers?

R

Russell

Well-known member
3 of the 4 control levers/valves on my dumper are leaking where the lever goes in to the valve body. Can these be disassembled and o rings replaced or should I buy new valves?
 
Mogman

Mogman

What man as done, man can do, what never has,maybe
3 of the 4 control levers/valves on my dumper are leaking where the lever goes in to the valve body. Can these be disassembled and o rings replaced or should I buy new valves?
Simple answer is yes 👍 just pull the spools out and there are o rings inside👌 Bit of a job but simple enough
 
R

Russell

Well-known member
Had a go today, I've only pulled one of the valves apart so far and the shaft bit is worn. Is there anyone that reconditions them?
IMG_20200410_153052.jpg
IMG_20200410_171029.jpg
IMG_20200410_173250.jpg
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
.........the shaft bit is worn. Is there anyone that reconditions them?
If it was me I’d float a bit of brass on them then turn back down on a lathe (done it before now) a good machine shop should be able to help you out👍👍
clean 'em with some carb cleaner to get 'em spotless and try some Devcon/Belzona/JB Weld/Araldite plastic metal and reshape them carefully (lathe ideal, but I'm sure you could get them pretty fair by hand with some time) ... Mog's solution'd be best by far, but the plastic metals are machine-able and have achieved some amazing repairs with them over the years .... and I mean amazing :oops:
 
R

Russell

Well-known member
I've tried JB weld on the spools and it seams to have stopped the leaking after a short test (y). The levers for lifting and tipping are a bit stiff so I'll see if they bed in. Strangely there is a capped off fitting on the middle aluminium block of the valve chest (not sure if that is the right term) that is now leaking. I'll give that a tweak when I next have a go. The one in the middle of this pic.
IMG_20200410_171029.jpg
 
R

Russell

Well-known member
I removed the leaking cap in the picture and is got a ball and spring inside. Behind that there is like a needle valve so I assume it's some sort of pressure release valve? Inside the cap there is a hole but outside there is a blob of weld so I don't know if it should be like that if someone has dodged it after a previous leak. Does anyone know what the thing in the picture is called? It's got one fat hydraulic pipe coming out and this pressure release valve .
Any idea what could happen with the valve bunged up?
I changed the o rings and stuck it back together so I can do a job next week. After a short test it's not leaking but I would like to fix it properly.
 

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V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I removed the leaking cap in the picture and is got a ball and spring inside. Behind that there is like a needle valve so I assume it's some sort of pressure release valve? Inside the cap there is a hole but outside there is a blob of weld so I don't know if it should be like that if someone has dodged it after a previous leak. Does anyone know what the thing in the picture is called? It's got one fat hydraulic pipe coming out and this pressure release valve .
Any idea what could happen with the valve bunged up?
I changed the o rings and stuck it back together so I can do a job next week. After a short test it's not leaking but I would like to fix it properly.
how big a hole .. big enough to be tapped for a long hex socket screw ? ... like you might find in an adjustable relief valve

2019-07-Oleodinamica-Pneumatica-1.jpg
 
R

Russell

Well-known member
About 1 mm. It is very similar to the relief valve on your diagram. Could it be something to do with the two speed tracking?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm trying to get a bit of an understanding or hydraulics.(y)
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
About 1 mm. It is very similar to the relief valve on your diagram. Could it be something to do with the two speed tracking?
Sorry for all the questions, I'm trying to get a bit of an understanding or hydraulics.(y)
That's not the best example really .. looks like a balanced flow carttridge type, not a straight forward RV, but was the best sectional I could find, illustrating the grub and lock nut ... they're one bloody complex unit, in comparison to a simple spring, ball and seat.
the one mil hole would suggest it should be sealed within the unit and not allow any oil to bypass any seals within it .. purely a breather/vent and the fact it's been blocked would suggest a seal issue within it :unsure:
 
R

Russell

Well-known member
Ok thanks. I have replaced the o rings that are the same as on your picture so hopefully that will cure it. The ones I removed were hard and one broke easily.
 
R

Russell

Well-known member
Well I got 200 hours out of the chemical metal repair but now one started leaking again. I smoothed it out with emery cloth and fitted a slightly fatter o ring 2mm instead of 1.7mm and it stopped leaking for now.
I cant face spending another £900 on it at the moment so im thinking ill get it braised by these people.
 
craig

craig

Well-known member
Well I got 200 hours out of the chemical metal repair but now one started leaking again. I smoothed it out with emery cloth and fitted a slightly fatter o ring 2mm instead of 1.7mm and it stopped leaking for now.
I cant face spending another £900 on it at the moment so im thinking ill get it braised by these people.
I`ve had a ram re-chromed by them, don`t recall it being overly expensive, they can supply some seals to suit as well.
 
R

Russell

Well-known member
I think the seals are custom for tcp but not 100% on that. I dont know the other dimensions off hand but the diameter is 1.7mm. Im hoping if I do it in time I can catch it before the new o rings get worn out.
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I`ve had a ram re-chromed by them, don`t recall it being overly expensive, they can supply some seals to suit as well.
can you define 'overly expensive' @craig? ...... I've got one on me leg ram that's got the chrome damaged at the eye end and fully closed it leaks ... I leave the leg slightly out, which cures it, but have to remember it's out a tad ... would love to cure the issue, before re-sealing it
 
craig

craig

Well-known member
can you define 'overly expensive' @craig? ...... I've got one on me leg ram that's got the chrome damaged at the eye end and fully closed it leaks ... I leave the leg slightly out, which cures it, but have to remember it's out a tad ... would love to cure the issue, before re-sealing it
I`ll have a look back in my accounts (y)
 
craig

craig

Well-known member
can you define 'overly expensive' @craig? ...... I've got one on me leg ram that's got the chrome damaged at the eye end and fully closed it leaks ... I leave the leg slightly out, which cures it, but have to remember it's out a tad ... would love to cure the issue, before re-sealing it
I had a look here, nothing to hand without asking the accountant to dig the invoice out, but two figures stick out in my mind either £60 or £90+vat.
It wasn't a big ram, but complicated with an internal locking mechanism, 4 figures off the dealers 😲
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
I had a look here, nothing to hand without asking the accountant to dig the invoice out, but two figures stick out in my mind either £60 or £90+vat.
It wasn't a big ram, but complicated with an internal locking mechanism, 4 figures off the dealers 😲
thanks .. mine's a straight forward rod, with an eye end and circa 60/70 mil dia .... maybe 500 mil long .... will have a measure up, next time i have her running ;)
 
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