Kx71 track motor problem

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Stevies205

New member
Evening all. New to the forum but wondering if there’s anyone on here that can help. I have a vintage kx71 that I suspect needs track motor bearings. I have the motor off but can’t get the final drive end plate off. I’ve removed the little Allan grub screw with the intention of tweaking out the wire that holds the end plate but the end plate will not rotate to wind the wire out. Any suggestions or tips greatly appreciated. 👍
 
CPS

CPS

Well-known member
Hi Stevie, welcome to the forum.
If you screw 2 hydraulic fittings in to the plug holes, I think there 3/8 bsp thread you will be able to rotate it with a pry bar.
You might need a bit of heat around the rim of it to break the seal if it's an older one.
Once you get the wire out you might need to weld a bar to the fitting screwed in the middle hole to act as a slide hammer to get the plate out.
Hope that all makes sense, been a while since I did one.

Aiden
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
welcome Stevie .... Aiden's the boy for these sort of fiddles ... (y) been there, done it, got a wardrobe full of tee shirts ;):giggle: .. sounds like a plan to me :cool:
 
JD450A

JD450A

Feral as Fk 🐾
Just FYI you will likely find it's cheaper to replace the whole final drive unit than just the main bearings/seals. If it's only the planetary bearings it's worth rebuilding. FDC (Final Drive Center) have supplied us two in the past that have worked well.
 
Regy53

Regy53

I like cake
Evening all. New to the forum but wondering if there’s anyone on here that can help. I have a vintage kx71 that I suspect needs track motor bearings. I have the motor off but can’t get the final drive end plate off. I’ve removed the little Allan grub screw with the intention of tweaking out the wire that holds the end plate but the end plate will not rotate to wind the wire out. Any suggestions or tips greatly appreciated. 👍
Can’t help you but welcome to the forum,
 
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Stevies205

New member
Thanks for the speedy replies chaps. When I eventually got the vernier out and discovered the drain and level bungs were 16.5mm i went looking for hydraulic fittings but them and a bar delivered no joy. I’ve had the gas around it for a long while and still no joy with a 4ft bar on it. I’ve soaked it all in wd40 but my next plan will be either fill it with diesel and let it soak or weld two nuts on the outer edge of the cover plate for increased leverage. Thoughts?
As mentioned above I suspect I may be replacing the whole unit but I do not like to be beaten!!
I live for the day when I can afford newer kit that comes apart without gas and long bars!!
Even getting the track motor out of the undercarriage was a problem as some wise soul had parked it in concrete at some point! 🙈
 
JD450A

JD450A

Feral as Fk 🐾
Thanks for the speedy replies chaps. When I eventually got the vernier out and discovered the drain and level bungs were 16.5mm i went looking for hydraulic fittings but them and a bar delivered no joy. I’ve had the gas around it for a long while and still no joy with a 4ft bar on it. I’ve soaked it all in wd40 but my next plan will be either fill it with diesel and let it soak or weld two nuts on the outer edge of the cover plate for increased leverage. Thoughts?
As mentioned above I suspect I may be replacing the whole unit but I do not like to be beaten!!
I live for the day when I can afford newer kit that comes apart without gas and long bars!!
Even getting the track motor out of the undercarriage was a problem as some wise soul had parked it in concrete at some point! 🙈
Knock the face plate inwards with a hammer and a drift. Then get in behind the circlippy wire with a chisel.

Out of interest what leads you to believe it's had it?
 
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Stevies205

New member
Knock the face plate inwards with a hammer and a drift. Then get in behind the circlippy wire with a chisel.

Out of interest what leads you to believe it's had it?
Thanks I’ll give that a go in the morning. I guess I had assumed that the plate wouldn’t knock in or pull out with the wire still in place.
A number of things I guess. The machine appears to have had little or no maintenance, I’m pretty sure a main bearing has failed which makes me think there’ll be more wear and tear in there, the “oil” ceased to be oil as we know it a long time ago and last but not least it’s the original motor on a 1996 machine. But id love to be proved wrong on my assumption 😆🤞
 
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Stevies205

New member
well I’ve had success removing the end plate but not without welding an 8ft length of box to the end plate to get it to turn. Needed gas as well!! Got as far as both sets of planet gears removed and I’m a little stumped on removal of the plate that the second set of planet gears sit on. There’s a couple of bolt holes that look like they could be used to pull the plate out but am I barking up the wrong tree? The two bolt holes are an odd thread too. Unless it’s more bsp?? Thanks in advance 👍
 
Stubota86

Stubota86

Well-known member
Have you watched any of this guys videos? Really helpful, think yours will be a Kayaba drive but I imagine the principals are fairly similar across different manufacturers

 
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Stevies205

New member
Hi, yes I think I’ve watched all their videos! Unfortunately none of them get as far as bearing removal. I’ve ordered the workshop manual now so hopefully that will give me a clue 🤞
 
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Stevies205

New member
That was mentioned above but I assumed that was including the labour of someone rebuilding it? When you say crazy prices what are we talking? I also assume that means the bearings are not available from a bearing supplier?
It would appear I’m looking at 1200-1500 for a new final drive. Any recommendations on a supplier?
 
JD450A

JD450A

Feral as Fk 🐾
That was mentioned above but I assumed that was including the labour of someone rebuilding it? When you say crazy prices what are we talking? I also assume that means the bearings are not available from a bearing supplier?
It would appear I’m looking at 1200-1500 for a new final drive. Any recommendations on a supplier?
FDC - Very very good. Phone: 01473 827145

To put you a figure in price wise, Bearings and Seals for a Takeuchi TB015 came to near £1500 and quite a few parts are no longer made. New unit was £1000 including a new motor.

The issue is'nt so much the bearings but the bronze seals/bush/rings :eek: ££££
 
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Stevies205

New member
FDC - Very very good. Phone: 01473 827145

To put you a figure in price wise, Bearings and Seals for a Takeuchi TB015 came to near £1500 and quite a few parts are no longer made. New unit was £1000 including a new motor.

The issue is'nt so much the bearings but the bronze seals/bush/rings :eek: ££££
Thanks for the number. I’ll give them a call and see what their price is. I’d prefer a new one really especially as the other side has only done a couple of hundred hours. Just being able to justify it on a machine that age becomes tricky but I’m a couple of grand up on the machine so don’t mind spending a bit on it.
Slightly different subject- does anyone have a suggestion for a supplier of hydraulic pumps or is a rebuild a better idea on them?
Thanks for everything again 👍
 
V8Druid

V8Druid

do it as well as you can,but learn to do it better
Thanks for the number. I’ll give them a call and see what their price is. I’d prefer a new one really especially as the other side has only done a couple of hundred hours. Just being able to justify it on a machine that age becomes tricky but I’m a couple of grand up on the machine so don’t mind spending a bit on it.
Slightly different subject- does anyone have a suggestion for a supplier of hydraulic pumps or is a rebuild a better idea on them?
Thanks for everything again 👍
Can you recall who Tim used to recommend Rory @JD450A
 
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Stevies205

New member
Quick update. Bought all the parts from FDC for £430 delivered. Helpful crowd so thanks for the recommendation. Parts ordered mid afternoon and arrived the next morning which is impressive any time let alone at the moment.
Everything is cleaned up and it’s going back together but does anyone know how tight the ring nut should be that tightens onto the main bearing? It clamps down the floating seal as it tightens but when it seems like it has then tightened down on the bearing there still appears to be a fair bit of play between the hydraulic motor housing and the gear casing?
 
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Stevies205

New member
Quick update. The issue with the play was due to the wrong bearing. The correct one had a 5mm wider outer race. It’s all back together, working a treat and now I know an awful lot lot more about track motors!! 👍 thanks for the help👌
 
Bri963

Bri963

Well-known member
Those odd threads you keep mentioning are probably metric fine. Kubota use a few metric fine threads M10 and upwards. Some are easy to mistake for UNF or BSP if you aren’t greatly familiar with threads.
 
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